3 head bolts/nuts front n' center

L.A.B. · Jun 6, 2020

Fast Eddie said:
I‘m sure you have these in the colonies, and I’m intrigued as to what you call them!

= Tube or tubular box wrench.

http://[COLOR=#B05A45][Broken Link Removed][/COLOR]

What we in the UK call a ring spanner is a 'box wrench' in the US.

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Torontonian · Jun 6, 2020

grandpaul said:
Yes, they get rusty due to the heat in that vicinity.

Use a 6-point socket, 1/4" drive. They have thinner walls. work to get the best fit between the nearest sizes of various type. As long as it's 6-point you WILL get one to fit well enough to torque down, even if you have to tap it over the rust.

Is there a possibility that the previous owner cross-threaded some incorrect nuts down on there?

Yes the nuts look fine with the flashlight and not cross threaded or angled at all. They are not completely down over the studs though. My Gordon is a 6 pt. and the King Dick a 12.

grandpaul · Jun 6, 2020

The head might have to come off to fix it correctly...

dynodave · Jun 6, 2020

I have a front barrel stud here in my hand, 5/16 -26 both ends.
I screw on 3 different nuts regular form .525, reduced hex .444, and to my shock, a third @ .500

Torontonian · Jun 6, 2020

grandpaul said:
The head might have to come off to fix it correctly...

Yes , that's what concerns me.

Torontonian · Jun 6, 2020

dynodave said:
I have a front barrel stud here in my hand, 5/16 -26 both ends.
I screw on 3 different nuts regular form .525, reduced hex .444, and to my shock, a third @ .500

Thanks Dave. This could be the real problem. Studs and nuts not matching as they should.

triumph2 · Jun 7, 2020

dynodave said:
I have a front barrel stud here in my hand, 5/16 -26 both ends.
I screw on 3 different nuts regular form .525, reduced hex .444, and to my shock, a third @ .500

I had the same thing recently on a 68 Atlas motor. None of the usual sockets fit and to my surprise a 1/2" one slipped right on !!

Torontonian · Jun 7, 2020

triumph2 said:
I had the same thing recently on a 68 Atlas motor. None of the usual sockets fit and to my surprise a 1/2" one slipped right on !!

About to try that. I'm about to grind down the outer of the 1/2 to make it slimmer and drop down into place.

dynodave · Jun 8, 2020

The proper 3/8D 5/16BS/1/4W Koken =.704 dia
My craftsman 3/8D 1/2" 6point/deep =.723" dia also fits just fine in all 3 front holes clear to the bottom

dynodave · Jun 8, 2020

If it in fact it is 1/2, then the first ting to do is to identify the nut thread and if some idiot custom made a cylinder repair stud, helicoiled the barrels in UN threads along with a 5/16-24 UN nut!
good luck

Torontonian · Jun 8, 2020

dynodave said:
If it in fact it is 1/2, then the first ting to do is to identify the nut thread and if some idiot custom made a cylinder repair stud, helicoiled the barrels in UN threads along with a 5/16-24 UN nut!
good luck

Thanks Dave , I think you are on the money with this problem. Today I bought 2 sockets. 1/2 inch deep thin walled as suggested in earlier replies.
3/8 and 1/4 " drives. No luck. Too small to fit over the 2 recessed nuts in Question. In desperation I Dremel tool grinder tip stone ground away socket internal edges to attempt any kind of a drop down into. No luck. Now I'm thinking getting some plasticene or play dough or artist craft soft form material to press down into one of the bores and over the nut to make a soft cast then pull up by string for measurement. Very little rust involved , nuts seem clean. WD 40 is now in there. I'm no longer trying to torque down but to remove the 2 problem size nuts to correct back to stock. 76 MK 111.

grandpaul · Jun 9, 2020

Like I said, go to a 6-point socket that you have on hand that is slightly larger and try that...

Use calipers to see if that'll be a metric, SAE, or Whitworth that is JUST slightly larger...

dynodave · Jun 9, 2020

GP it both has to fit IN THE HOLE and OVER THE NUT.

"T"
1/2 .500"/
13mm .511"/
1/4W 5/16BS .525"/
14mm .5512"/
9/16 .5625" thin wall 6 point 1/4 drive
all sockets fit in the hole to the bottom

something has to work if it's a hex head bolt. An allen head bolt will be your demise LOL
You should LOOK super close to see if it is a hex head that has been deformed by an inappropriate over size socket that has boogered the hex corners. then you would need to hammer the original proper socket on through the extension.
Just think of the prior rocket scientist (idiot) that put the 5/16 BS on with a 14mm socket. How many times have you heard and cringed at those guys that use ANY metric tool on a norton.
A significant part of my working on nortons is fixing prior screw-ups. They are obviously worth less....just like powder coating

grandpaul · Jun 10, 2020

dynodave said:
GP it both has to fit IN THE HOLE and OVER THE NUT.

Correct, several others already mentioned grinding away the outer face of the socket to get it down the hole.

SteveA · Jun 10, 2020

I have never had a problem with these nuts on the 5/16" studs!

Way back I used a tubular 'box' spanner. but not for long before I got 3/8" square drive tools to fit.

The only thing 'special' I use is a 5" 3/8" square drive extension bar instead of a 6" when the motor is in the frame, for better clearance!

Standard 3/8" square drive size socket!

Currently mine are fitted with ARP style nuts and matching studs from CNW.

Torontonian · Jun 13, 2020

Yes I will order in the ARP kit with my MK 111 starter train upgrade shortly once tested thoroughly. And I hope this includes cold temps.

3 head bolts/nuts front n' center

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