22 year old and my first norton 650 ss :) from england

Your concentric manifolds look a bit short ?
Quote some thicknesses.

Auction has ended, but these look a bit wider.
[Broken Link Removed]

It was mentioned someplace else that monobloc+manifold (length) was the same as concentric+manifold,
but this obviously means the monobloc and concentric manifolds were different..

2 tufnols together doesn't look right.

Perhaps you need some Webco specials - 1" thick.
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/96UAAOxy9 ... -l1600.jpg
 
Tom Steele said:
gahhhh, ok options lol the shorter studs I was sold.. are the same length as the other ones darn it

so here we go,

like this but alas the stud is to short so not mono block studs,

Tom
Click to expand...

You don't need the 2 extra thin gaskets with the heat insulators. The heat insulator is all you need there.
I used thin wavy washers instead of thick lock washers so the nuts fully engaged. Those studs look about right if you removed the thin gaskets.
 
can just about get the nut on half way doesnt leave much for any washers, stud is wound right in the head side though unless i back it off ever so slightly an loctite it maybe
 
Tom Steele said:
can just about get the nut on half way doesnt leave much for any washers, stud is wound right in the head side though unless i back it off ever so slightly an loctite it maybe
Click to expand...

I use socket head cap screws for the two interior fasteners. Much easier than trying to get nuts on studs.

For the outer studs, cut and thread longer ones to suit.

+1 regarding machschmitz57 post about gaskets. One thick heat insulator is all you need.

Slick
 
I think the studs you want are Norton P/N 067855
At least you can measure the studs you currently have and compare them to these, which should be 2.5" long.

http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/067855SS.htm
or
[Broken Link Removed]

So your manifold blocks are 1" long, correct? And the studs are 2.5" long?
I just measured the spare set of manifolds I have and they are exactly 1" long.



The Webco style finned manifolds available on the interweb are also 1" long. Keep in mind that this manifold needs to have the corners nipped off to clear each other when used on Norton twins. I got lucky and found a set on eBay that were already modified (included the correct studs and nuts) Otherwise they have to be carefully filed.

I've installed 2 Premiers on my Atlas with Webco manifolds (1" long) and the stud is flush with the nut when installed.
I'm using thin "wavy" washers with a bit of locktite. The studs are fully engaged in the head. Remember not to over-tighten these nuts or you'll bow the mounting flange on the carbs.

 
texasSlick said:
Tom Steele said:
can just about get the nut on half way doesnt leave much for any washers, stud is wound right in the head side though unless i back it off ever so slightly an loctite it maybe
Click to expand...

I use socket head cap screws for the two interior fasteners. Much easier than trying to get nuts on studs.

For the outer studs, cut and thread longer ones to suit.

+1 regarding machschmitz57 post about gaskets. One thick heat insulator is all you need.

Slick
Click to expand...

Yes, the inner nuts/studs are a real bitch to reach with a wrench with both carbs installed. Actually only the last nut because you still have full access to both nuts before the 2nd carb is installed. Cap screw would be easier to tighten/loosen but I don't think they will clear the protruding tickler (or the blank tickler boss) unless removed at an angle. Which means the carb, bolt, + manifold must be installed/removed as a complete unit.
 
Hi lads thats a massive help, got in touch with a friend that used to work at Norton in the race shop, turns out they thin ones are for airboxes and the thicker ones are for without according to them :) interesting,

going to go with the longer manifolds which are 1 inch long, just need to get the right studs now, got a correctly threaded allen bolt that Im thinking of using, for one of the inner ones, going to order some of the studs of andover tomorrow

Cheers, again everyone :)
 
Hi everyone :) finally tracked down a New mudguard for my norton 650ss 1966

having a slight issue with fitting bought this stay



one thing Ive noticed is there seems to be clearance between the mudguard and the stay on the inside? anyone had this also when you just put the mudguard on with the stay bolted to it seems to want a washer between the stay and the forks?



http://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/dommie-m ... e_4092.htm

can canter the mudguard back or forward a bit on the stay.



Main issue Ive had if I tighten it right up is the bolts on the top of the stay to mudguard are just catching ever so lightly on the tyre's took some pictures when I went to the museum and noticed they have the top of the bolt on the visible part of the mudguard If i do this on mine catches the tyres really bad
 
Early Nortons had 7 inch centers on the forks. Later ones, which should include your 1966, had 7 3/8 inch centers. This could account for your clearance issue, fitting a mudguard from an early model to your later model.

I suspect (suspect means I do not know for a fact) Norton fitted a few spacers or thick washers to take up the slack.

Slick
 
Tom Steele said:
Hi everyone :) finally tracked down a New mudguard for my norton 650ss 1966

having a slight issue with fitting bought this stay



one thing Ive noticed is there seems to be clearance between the mudguard and the stay on the inside? anyone had this also when you just put the mudguard on with the stay bolted to it seems to want a washer between the stay and the forks?



http://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/dommie-m ... e_4092.htm

can canter the mudguard back or forward a bit on the stay.



Main issue Ive had if I tighten it right up is the bolts on the top of the stay to mudguard are just catching ever so lightly on the tyre's took some pictures when I went to the museum and noticed they have the top of the bolt on the visible part of the mudguard If i do this on mine catches the tyres really bad "
Click to expand...
Click to expand...



I had the same problem with the fender stays on my 1966 Atlas..There is a d shaped spacer that goes between the fender and the stay, about 5/16" to 3/8" thick..

As for the bolt rubbing the tire, had that problem too and cut bolt off and used a thinner(ground down) nut...If that doesn't work maybe slot the fender brace holes a bit to get the added clearance...
 
Cheers mate actually ordered another stay of Norvil same one RGM sells >.<

has anyone got the correct spec for the bolts that go on top of the bridge and nuts

Also the length of the bridge ?

confusing me a fair bit

its got 3.25 19 inch k70 goldseals on at the moment

would a different tyre lower the profile? from the mudguard bridge
 
That's an imperial sized tyre and it is 100% profile, eg as tall as it is wide. Metric tyres are low profile so can be 90 80 or 70% profile. Here the height is lower than the width by the %. So a 90/90 roadrider is 90mm wide and the height is 90% of 90mm approx 82mm.
 
Tom Steele said:
its got 3.25 19 inch k70 goldseals on at the moment

would a different tyre lower the profile? from the mudguard bridge
Click to expand...

According to the Avon tech. specs. a 90/90 - 19 Roadrider is 99mm wide and 647mm diameter.

[Broken Link Removed]

A 3.25 -19 K70 appears to be 89mm wide and 665mm (according to Vintage Tyres) or 658mm (according to North Hants Tyres) diameter, so a 90/90 Roadrider is lower but wider.

[Broken Link Removed]
[Broken Link Removed]
 
Cheers mate thats a massive help :)

bit of progress with the bike got the rest of the parts for the mudguard now,

Hunting for a rear one, clutch cables on is it right that the basket has some float on it when you pull the lever in noticed the entire basket moves a bit

whats the crack with setting the clutch springs had it apart its an RGM heavy clutch, had a look in the book but wasn't overly clear
 
Tom Steele said:
is it right that the basket has some float on it when you pull the lever in noticed the entire basket moves a bit
Click to expand...

Yes, that's probably normal.



Tom Steele said:
whats the crack with setting the clutch springs had it apart its an RGM heavy clutch, had a look in the book but wasn't overly clear
Click to expand...

Assuming this is the actual "RGM" clutch in question...
http://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/1964-onw ... er_875.htm
http://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/1964-onw ... ly_876.htm

.....then I assume the spring pressure can be altered in the usual way by turning the three 'spring adjuster nuts'.

Backing off the adjuster nuts should lighten the clutch pull but continuing to do so it will eventually reach the point where the clutch begins to slip, so back the nuts off maybe one turn at a time (making small adjustments afterwards so the pressure plate lifts squarely and doesn't 'wobble' when spun) and then test ride.
 
Hi mate yep thats the one :)

Ill give that a try on my 2 strokes rd 350 lc and tz 350 a lot of them you tighten fully home, so that threw me took the clutch apart sussing an issue out and forgot to mark up where they were lol

I saw in the book it said to pull clutch in and depress kickstart, feeling for clutch drag seemed to spin ok slight shhhh noise but wasn't sure if that was of the primary drive chain I did put them pretty much so the collets were flush with the pressure plate, so about a turn out from full tight at the moment so guessing it needs backing off a bit?

Hoping to have it running later today after some sleep 2 am here got to set the concentric's up and put the cables back on, also paint the footrests, get the footrest spindles through and paint the mudguard stays,

getting really excited about riding her again,
 
Tom Steele said:
Hi mate yep thats the one :)

Ill give that a try on my 2 strokes rd 350 lc and tz 350 a lot of them you tighten fully home, so that threw me took the clutch apart sussing an issue out and forgot to mark up where they were lol

I saw in the book it said to pull clutch in and depress kickstart, feeling for clutch drag seemed to spin ok slight shhhh noise but wasn't sure if that was of the primary drive chain I did put them pretty much so the collets were flush with the pressure plate, so about a turn out from full tight at the moment so guessing it needs backing off a bit?

Hoping to have it running later today after some sleep 2 am here got to set the concentric's up and put the cables back on, also paint the footrests, get the footrest spindles through and paint the mudguard stays,

getting really excited about riding her again,
Click to expand...

Great to see the progress Tom, I'm excited for you too! I hope it goes well.

One quick point... as you started this thread in 2011, shouldn't you change the title...? :wink:
 
Hi Tom, Its looking good, Don't forget to pass the front brake cable thro the guard clip!. I see your clutch lever is not at a comfy angle ( those straight bars need a small set of bar risers ) that lever angle makes the clutch hard on the tendons and can give you tennis elbow!, and don't I know it.Hope you first ride is as exciting as mine was when I tried a mates one. Its one eager bike.
 
Cheers mate few issues today,

firstly ripped my fingernail clean off oops!

after an hour carried on like a trooper

brake cable can't pass it through the mudguard clip its got a modification to fit a cable to the rear brake light, need to sus that one out,

then the front brake lever won't spring back strip the hub? an check everything is free?

Joys haha


then the throttle cable doesn't fit the twist grip whats everyones preferred throttle slide/grip
 

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