200w Stator pic with install question

Hi All;
I have followed Pete.V's recommendation for electrical/starting mods. All have been straight forward. Received the Wassell 200w stator and removed the old to find that, per pic below, the stator is wider by 9mm. No instructions in the box. No part number defining it as the Norton Stator.
My questions: Is this the right Stator?
If yes then do I have to modify the spacers in any way to install it? Any thing else come to mind?
I bought it from The Bonneville Shop in Denver. Any comments on them...good or bad?
Cheers, Frank

wah64apache said:

Hi All;
I have followed Pete.V's recommendation for electrical/starting mods.

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Well, that was you're first mistake. :mrgreen:

But seriously, wider were, does it fit on the studs?

wah64apache said:

Hi All;
If yes then do I have to modify the spacers in any way to install it?

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Oh you behave there, half a bananaman.

You do not have to change the spacers for the rotor works efficiently without the mod, so they say.
However, I did replace the spacers (1/2") with 3/8" spacers available at most hardware stores. The trick is to bring a caliper or micrometer to measure them up to get 3 pieces as close to equal as possible. It will cost you under a fin.

"Never under estimate the need to set the clearance between the rotor and stator"

Ok Pete, just how would you go about adjusting rotor/stator gap when everything is built pretty robustly with no provision of adjustment. What matters most for wattage, after just not fouling anything is to get the rotor encountering the stator laminate flux terminals by shims to center as practical in/out distance.

hobot said:

Ok Pete, just how would you go about adjusting rotor/stator gap when everything is built pretty robustly with no provision of adjustment.

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We're talking .010" here. There is plenty to tweak. I would first check to see how it fits static. I also have the Wassel unit and I needed to clear some of the internal sworf (plastic slag) with a Dremal and sanding drum. I then lay 3 strips of .010" feeler stock and tighten stator carefully. If you are am unable to achieve equality, you can nudge the studs slightly in the direction of tightness. Again, we're talking only .010" here.

Christ, Steve, this shit's 101. What's your deal?

I enjoy you "Norton old timers" sniping away at each other. Specially at Hobot, since I have to read his posts 3x and think about what is written (me thinks he does that purposely and spells phonetically).
That's not to say that I am not "older" then you, just that I am a youngster when it comes to Nortons. :wink:

Thanks for the info. So, I assume the wider front side is ok. I have a pretty good old line ACE Hardware store in old town Mesa that has most everything I ever need, so I will go check for spacers shorter then stock. I probably have a million bits in my shop but to find 3 the same is usually an all day production. Much more fun to ride down to the store. It's big and every now and then, like Christmas time, they have some cute lasses in there. Hi Ho, I'm on my way.
Cheers, Frank

pete.v said:

hobot said:

Ok Pete, just how would you go about adjusting rotor/stator gap when everything is built pretty robustly with no provision of adjustment.

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We're talking .010" here. There is plenty to tweak. I would first check to see how it fits static. I also have the Wassel unit and I needed to clear some of the internal sworf (plastic slag) with a Dremal and sanding drum. I then lay 3 strips of .010" feeler stock and tighten stator carefully. If you are am unable to achieve equality, you can nudge the studs slightly in the direction of tightness. Again, we're talking only .010" here.

Christ, Steve, this shit's 101. What's your deal?

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swooshdave said:

wah64apache said:

Hi All;
I have followed Pete.V's recommendation for electrical/starting mods.

Click to expand...

Well, that was you're first mistake. :mrgreen:

But seriously, wider were, does it fit on the studs?

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Dave, I assume you asked "wider where". Did you look at the pic, the side towards the outer case is 9mm wider than the side towards the engine.

Yes, it fits on the studs, it has numerous mounting holes around the circumference of the metal plates, undoubtedly to fit other makes of motorbikes and autos.

Cheers, Frank

The Lucas and the Sparx stators I've fitted did not have .010" fudge room in their almost interference fit studs though tough hardened laminates holes, so glad yoose guys have not had to adjust gap clearance by milling holes bigger or by harder hobot sledge hammering. To get some extra rpm tolerance you should actually mount so gap is widest in 5-7 o'clock area as crank jump rope can slam rotor into stator in this area - which can then bounce rotor to strike other areas too. Peel had crank and clutch nuts come off and run through chain/sprockets and also belt packed completely in/around alternator when tranny wear let clutch to wobble and throw belt 100 miles from home. This cracked the upper rear ward post off so JBW back on to work fine there after. Can only gain a bit by hammering or may break the cast posts or separate laminates which so far has still worked fine in Trixie Combat factory parts. The early Sparx stator has my great respects as it got so hot form over rev event it melted the resin out of inner liminates and turned the nice greenish color to a dirty tan/brown but after grinding out the melted compostie and metal slag worked a treat and eventually sold off at a rally, because it would not fit nor support needs of next Peel and not factory part numbered for plain Jane Trixie. I do not try to confuse others on purpose.

hobot said:

I do not try to confuse others on purpose.

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Sorry Hobot, that was not meant in a negative way...more tongue in cheek.
Cheers, Frank

If you can't get spacers just stack equal numbers of washers on each studs until you get the closest to the spacing you need equality nuts also can work. If you buy washers there are three standard thickness an you can tell by looking if one is as thick as another.
Yes I know its a bodge an not pretty but no one will see when the cover is on an its the air gap that is more important.

toppy said:

If you can't get spacers just stack equal numbers of washers on each studs until you get the closest to the spacing you need equality nuts also can work. If you buy washers there are three standard thickness an you can tell by looking if one is as thick as another.
Yes I know its a bodge an not pretty but no one will see when the cover is on an its the air gap that is more important.

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Thanks Toppy. I have used both of those bodges in a pinch. I suspect most everyone who spends enough time around old motorbikes has done. We have a couple of really good hardware places here...Copper State Nut & Bolt has never let me down and as I said before we have an old line hardware store that has a huge nut and bolt section with a counter and very knowledgeable chap standing behind it. Cheers, Frank

Cut out an old plastic coke jug to wrap around the rotor on install, helps to ensure correct even gap. My sparx unit was sitting 1/2" proud of the rotor surface with the supplied spacers, so I just ground down some 3/8" nuts to bring the stator down to the correct height

acadian said:

Cut out an old plastic coke jug to wrap around the rotor on install, helps to ensure correct even gap. My sparx unit was sitting 1/2" proud of the rotor surface with the supplied spacers, so I just ground down some 3/8" nuts to bring the stator down to the correct height

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Now that is an interesting idea. I have some old feeler gauges that I can use, but I think I will cut up a smooth plastic bottle and measure it. If it close to .0010 then I'll try your trick. Thanks, cheers, Frank

Ontogeny recapitulates phylogeny, ie: final growth state of an individual usually goes through prior ancient forms in its development. If the rotor don't just fit adequately right off then may find the plastic or wrap spacer will get trapped if it even can be fitted all around to begin with. Got to try this to learn what I mean. For a long time now I just use a flash light into gap with white paper if needed behind and when I get it so decent day light all around I nip er down and ride. If the mounts slack enough that spacers can help then its was loose enough to move by hand or a light bump to see day light anyway. What is being avoided so far is what to do if spacers can't fix the clearances...

hobot said:

Ontogeny recapitulates phylogeny, ie: final growth state of an individual usually goes through prior ancient forms in its development. If the rotor don't just fit adequately right off then may find the plastic or wrap spacer will get trapped if it even can be fitted all around to begin with. Got to try this to learn what I mean. For a long time now I just use a flash light into gap with white paper if needed behind and when I get it so decent day light all around I nip er down and ride. If the mounts slack enough that spacers can help then its was loose enough to move by hand or a light bump to see day light anyway.

"What is being avoided so far is what to do if spacers can't fix the clearances...

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"

Pete V. addressed it in an earlier post Hobot. Tap the studs in the direction of the bind ever so lightly since .0010 isn't much in the way of clearance.

Also, the first thing I will do is clean the interior of any swarf with a sanding disc on a dremel. Once smooth I will mark one of the holes in the stator and position it and see if I have clearance with a feeler gauge. If I can find the clearance all the way round I will bolt her up with 3 pieces of equally spaced gauge. If that doesn't work then I'll rotate the marked stator hole to the next stud and so on. If I can't find clearance then I will tap the bolts very lightly with a sleeve over them in the direction of the bind.
Cheers, Frank

" If that doesn't work then I'll rotate the marked stator hole to the next stud and so on."

Can that statement, it only goes on one way.

Cheers, Frank[/quote]

Peter Turner showed us his method of stator adjust that elongates holes into slots much like timing plate adjustments. Seems logical. Stator puts out proper power with equal clearance all around.

Torontonian said:

Peter Turner showed us his method of stator adjust that elongates holes into slots much like timing plate adjustments. Seems logical. Stator puts out proper power with equal clearance all around.

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Thanks, something to consider if I can't get it right with the original holes. Cheers, Frank