1973 Norton Commando Value

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Eric Bauer said:
Thank you - I love it. The $2K was real - I spoke to the guy that did it and saw the invoices. New tires, oil change, timing check, new fuel lines / filters, disassemble and clean carbs. New fork oil, new plugs, new battery all that jazz. Paying someone $75 an hour to do it and it doesn't take long. One thing the mechanic mentioned is redoing the isolastic mounts as they are likely original looks pricey. Any thoughts on worth it?
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At $75/hour, he got a GOOD mechanic for it all to come in under $2K

Isolastics can be done in place but it takes a (bike) jack and lots of patience.
 
Ditto on the patience part..... Please take your glasses off prior to using a bar to assist fishing that recalcitrant bugger up front in place.... Do use the bike jack too... Don't just leave it lay beside you while you're on the deck like a fool... Someone I know well did that and was quite uncomfortable & frustrated before the end of the task.
 
If your shop/garage structure can support it, you can hoist the engine up with a Come-A-Long (ratchet type winch)
 
I am curious about that gearbox - do you know if the layshaft bearing was replaced? This bearing was an issue for all of our bikes and most have been replaced by a proper bearing.

I would begin your Norton life by joining the International and your local Norton clubs. Then, collect the following manual if they were not included in the sale:

= Norton workshop manual
= Norton 850 Commando Parts list
= INOA Tech Digest version 3

Take your time to assess what needs to be done and then shop classifieds and elsewhere to find someone else's new but unused parts for sale. Good luck and happy riding!
 
Jdub said:
I am curious about that gearbox - do you know if the layshaft bearing was replaced? This bearing was an issue for all of our bikes and most have been replaced by a proper bearing.
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As far as the layshaft bearing goes; I replaced mine a bit over a year ago. I have a '74 and it had 24,000 miles on it then. It WAS the dreaded
Portugese bearing. It was in quite fine shape. But at least I don't have to worry any more.............about that.
 
Mine is a '74 and to my knowledge has the same bearing installed at time of assembly. I'm rolling onto 24,000 miles right now and don't like hearing this news although everything is tight and shipshape. Bought her in '78 with about 9000 mi. on the clock and put over 10k on before stowing away in '80.
Perhaps I'll take the tranny apart and look this winter next.
 
I think SOME of the layshaft bearing failures can be attributed to inadequate maintenance. I would guess MANY Commandos never had a transmission lube change, and that most of THOSE have grease clogged in the swingarm spindle tube. Seen it too many times.
 
I have always changed tranny oil biannually except during storage. Thrice since revival. I would put my money into one with known good maintenance and good care over bling and shine every time.
My swingarm bushes were lubed and still wore out with age, so if you feel that twitching when cornering check for wear. Better still check now & lube them prior to cursing.
 
jbruney said:
My swingarm bushes were lubed and still wore out with age, so if you feel that twitching when cornering check for wear. Better still check now & lube them prior to cursing.
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If you can feel them twitch, they're well beyond needing lube! That means they need AT MINIMUM cradle tube clamping/pinning.
 
Agreed... sometimes ISO clearance gives twitches also, so best check everything between your rear and the pavement anyway...…… That layshaft topic is grating on me... I'm wandering so far off topic that I can't recall what it was....
 
jbruney said:
I have always changed tranny oil biannually except during storage. Thrice since revival. I would put my money into one with known good maintenance and good care over bling and shine every time.
My swingarm bushes were lubed and still wore out with age, so if you feel that twitching when cornering check for wear. Better still check now & lube them prior to cursing.
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How do you lube them? is there are reference in the manual?
 
Swing arm bushes use 140wt oil. Most say to remove the bolt atop the tube fill with oil rather than
pumping it in the zerk fittings.
It will all slowly drain out over time. What a great setup.
I use rocker arm oil which also drains out over time just slightly more slowly.
 
Onder said:
Swing arm bushes use 140wt oil. Most say to remove the bolt atop the tube fill with oil rather than
pumping it in the zerk fittings.
It will all slowly drain out over time. What a great setup.
I use rocker arm oil which also drains out over time just slightly more slowly.
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Sorry, I guess i don't know what you are referencing, what is the tube fill?
 
Eric Bauer said:
Sorry, I guess i don't know what you are referencing, what is the tube fill?
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It's a 1/4-28 bolt in the top center of the swingarm tube, referred to as the "central fixing bolt". You can top off swingarm oil by removing that bolt and using a syringe.
 
Onder said:
Swing arm bushes use 140wt oil. Most say to remove the bolt atop the tube fill with oil rather than
pumping it in the zerk fittings.
It will all slowly drain out over time. What a great setup.
I use rocker arm oil which also drains out over time just slightly more slowly.
Click to expand...

Getting at the 1/4-28 bolt that "locates" the swingarm spindle is not easy and if the spindle moves even the slightest re-orienting the bolt becomes an endeavor packed with frustration; never mind making up an oil delivery "system".

If you orient the zerk fitting, on the right side of the swingarm, somewhere between the 12 o'clock and the 2 o'clock position the fitting can be easily removed and appropriate oil can be added with no drama.

Best
 
...a lot of people would be very happy if the spindle moved even the slightest amount! :)
 
RoadScholar said:
Getting at the 1/4-28 bolt that "locates" the swingarm spindle is not easy and if the spindle moves even the slightest re-orienting the bolt becomes an endeavor packed with frustration;
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Nah. Rear wheel off, no big deal. Wipe the dirt and oil off before removing the bolt, so as not to ingest any into the spindle.

If you orient the zerk fitting, on the right side of the swingarm, somewhere between the 12 o'clock and the 2 o'clock position the fitting can be easily removed and appropriate oil can be added with no drama.
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Well, my 74 MKII doesn't have a zerk, so...
 
i found a zerk fitting with 3/8-24 thread, drilled out the spring and ball, installed that as the spindle locking bolt, and installed a length of tygon tube over the tit end, so now i can stick the syringe on up above the oil tank and let gravity fill it over time.
 
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