1970 Commando

themansfield said:
Just a note on your reassembly of the clutch. Just did my 70S and found that the new mainshaft circlip from AN didn’t sit within the recess of the clutch spacer. It was easy to miss. I filed out the recess a tad and got a nice flush fit.
Click to expand...
What kind of file did you use to trim down a hardened steel shaft?
 
Clip fit correctly, I'll count myself lucky. If I hadn't put the primary back together I'd take another look.Thanks for looking out.
 
Update for hell of it.
All is back together for the most part, electrics are working, wheels, brakes etc... At this point Im needing to sort the carb, complete the EI hookup, deal with my clutch and brake cable. After that the remaining will have to be dealt with when the bike is rolling around outside and hopefully running.

The red tank will eventually be painted purple according to despatch record. Muriatic acid did the trick on some hard core rust.
Also- center stand, as you can see in the picture is cocked forward? Not doing its job, common issue? Id also like to replace, or improve the side stand as PO rigged it up with what appears to be a screen door spring? anyways its a mess, does anyone have the outer half of the original stand clamp? Or an old unit hanging around I might be able to make use of?

Advice regarding overlooked minor details, things to do now rather than later? Anything? ANYTHING?

thanks.

1970 Commando


USA?

1970 Commando
 
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Looking good Pete. I may have mentioned this before, but any kind of key fob will spin in the wind and ruin your side cover paint. Also, on my '70, I don't have the high pipes to hold my leg away from the head of the key, so after gouging my leg a few times kicking the bike over, I took one of my keys and ground the head down to almost nothing so it doesn't cut into me. You may not have that problem.

I remember after my total rebuild, I couldn't get the bike to run and stay running. It turned out to be one bad spark plug. I was really freaking out because I had so much money invested it by that point. Once I got the bad plug sorted out, and adjusted the idle, I was in a state of euphoria. I took it for a short ride first thinking that if I had assembled something wrong that it would show up on that first ride. I went out and came back then shut it off so I could clean up some of the tools strewn everywhere. I went back out and kicked it to life again and it started like a champ. After a while, it was starting and running predictably. Within a few days, my confidence in the rebuild grew and I started riding it more and more. Eventually, I came to trust that it's 100% correct. (luck probably) and rode it like any other vehicle. There's always that element of magic in that bike. My best friend watched me build it in our shop, day after day, instead of working on paying jobs, and often reminds me that mutual friends asked him if he thought I was completely crazy. He's ridden my commando and he knows the answer to that, YES, of course I am.

Be careful when you go for your first ride, you'll offically be in a euphoric state of mind... ;)
 
Maybe add some more rubber discs under the front tank studs- three up , one down. Looks like the tank is sitting too low at the front.
 
Good catch, I'll be sure to focus support on the main frame spine, leaving the wings for stability, as warned.
Have plenty of time to sweat the details, warm weather still a month or two away.
Frank, I know that feeling. I've grown confident in my own abilities from other rebuilds but I'll always worry about that one bolt I forgot to tighten or that faulty brake cable!...
Really looking forward to having her in the sun. Falling in love.
 
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Quick electrical question. Since connecting my EI, I am getting some strange issues. When I connect the battery, the horn and tail light come on (automatic), occasional spark from the plugs. Nothing up front at all. Before connecting the EI everything worked as it should. Thoughts? Figure I'd ask here before ripping through my harness again. Thanks
 
Maybe you have the feed for the ignition on the wrong side of the key switch. My bike has 4 prongs, 2 on each side of the switch. You can wire your bike to have some things stay on when the key is off OR you can wire everything to go off with the key by using (or not using) the second prong on the hot side of the switch.

Also the 70 model also uses the headlight switch to turn things off if they are wired to the hot side of the key switch. Personally, I have my bike wired to let the key control everything, on or off.

Also pete, the wiring in the headlight is a rats nest. I tape up some of those connections so when I close the headlight nothing grounds out inside the shell...
 
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NPeteN said:
Since connecting my EI, I am getting some strange issues.
Click to expand...

Which "EI"? Edit: (If you've mentioned it in a previous post then I can't find it)


NPeteN said:
When I connect the battery, the horn and tail light come on (automatic),
Click to expand...

Tail light ON when the headlamp lighting switch is at OFF?
A 1970 model's lights normally operate independently of the ignition switch as does the horn so both should work without the (two position) ignition switch at ON.
The '70 horn switch is on the earth/ground side of the horn so the problem could be a faulty switch or a short to ground between the horn and the switch or incorrectly wired horn?


NPeteN said:
Before connecting the EI everything worked as it should.
Click to expand...

Details? What exactly have you done?
 
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Thanks gents.
The EI is a Pazon surefire. Prior to attaching both leads at the contact plate the electrics on the bike we're working as they should.
Now, the spare battery that I use to check electrical things is an old one that just holds enough if a charge to do what it needs to do, probably not an issue but I figured I would mention it.
Frank, I will recheck my ignition switch connections but they were working properly earlier and I have not changed them at all.
When I touch the - lead to the battery the horn sounds, thetthe light comes on and the plugs spark. Headlight switch and beam are not functioning.
Last week everything worked great, different battery and EI are the only two changes...
Appreciate the help guys.

Come to think of it, the taillight could be my brake switch, I'll check for shorts.
 
NPeteN said:
The EI is a Pazon surefire. Prior to attaching both leads at the contact plate the electrics on the bike we're working as they should.
Click to expand...

Where have you connected the Pazon white wire?

NPeteN said:
Last week everything worked great, different battery and EI are the only two changes...
Click to expand...

Maybe try the other battery again?
 
White from Pazon to the double white at the harness (leads to coil)
Also, I have a white lead in the headlight bucket and a white lead with a ring on it, both of which have blown the fuse when attached, I have isolated them for the time being. I'll try the old battery tomorrow.

And just in case I have these wrong. Don't suspect I do, matched them with the original harness.
1970 Commando
 
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NPeteN said:
And just in case I have these wrong. Don't suspect I do, matched them with the original harness.
1970 Commando
Click to expand...

The brown/white NW and white W appear to be connected to the 'double common' terminal and white/brown WN to the single terminal which wouldn't be right as the battery- (NW) is connected to 'ignition' (W) with the switch at OFF.
 
Correct, must have gotten my wires crossed when I greased them.
Switched them around and im still getting the horn when I attach the battery leads...hmm
 
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I would troubleshoot a little with the guts of the headlight hanging out, just to rule out something inside the headlight shell grounding against the shell. As I said, I eventually taped every connection inside there to be sure I wasn't going to get that scenario...

The horn is wired hot without the key switch in the schematic, and the way I have my bike wired, so is the dip switch for the headlight. Your horn issue might be at the switch cluster itself. I would disassemble the switch cluster too and check it out.
 
You were right Frank, the horn was shorting in the switch cluster at the handlebar. Thanks!
 
So I've just about got the whole thing sorted. Just need to add fluid. ATF in the primary, 20-50 in the can, and 80w-90 gear oil in the box.
Engine turns over nicely, can spin it with my arm but probably not sharp enough to start it.
Kicks well and I've got a nice spark.
Anything I should be doing to prime the engine with oil? First starting procedure? Thanks. Plan to tune the engine a bit then add higher quality fluids. Thanks guys.
 
Fluids in. Annoying little leak at the junction bolt from tank tubes to timing side. Not getting any oil up the rocker lines when turning the engine hmmm
 
Well, I got her started and I'm getting oil to the head. I must say, this one really needs to be KICKED to life! Imagine my surprise after 30 years of sitting, a couple seconds of life. Not sure how to tune this mikuni, but I'd like to get started before I sweat myself silly kicking this thing.
 
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