1962 Norton Atlas, what to do?

I few years ago I came across a 62 Atlas and I'm just getting around to deciding what to do with it. Its a numbers matching unit. There is little to no rust, except on the tank which may not be salvageable. What its missing is the original oil tank, air box, battery tray/battery (if it had one in 62 read different things), and I think the seat pan has been replaced. It has twin Amal carbs on it, not sure if it was supposed to have just 1 originally. Its got good compression last I worked on it.

When I first got it, I changed the oil and filter and put new plugs in it. The throttle cables were rotted out, but after some futzing I got it to start, once. The engine started to run away so I killed it. I presume this to be due to the throttle cables not returning as they should. I tinkered with it a bit, bought a rebuild kit for the carbs, but never had luck getting it to start again. I even went as far as getting a Mikuni carb and adapter for it thinking it would be easier. It was about then I realized I was in over my head. I've held onto it because I love the looks and the vintage appeal.

Seasons came and went, now I find myself with a bit of money to invest in it. I found a classic motorcycle guy in Clearwater near where I live. He is willing to work on it. I want to get it up and running for sure, but my question is how far should I take it? Should I track down all the stock parts and restore the thing or keep it as is and just get it running? I know the value in these bikes is in their originality, but not sure if its worth the cost to do it. I don't have any decent photos of it, its under a tarp buried in the garage, but I'll post some shortly.

Thanks,
Pie

I would address the mechanical aspects correctly, spend what it takes on that, don't scrimp. I wouldn't worry about how it looks until you know it's running and riding well - very well. The cosmetics can be addressed later. Paying someone else will drain your wallet fast, so make sure you understand each task being done. You are in the right place to be helped along the journey.

U got it to run, which is big. With a sound engine, usual basics or suspects to look at are spark and or fuel issues. With some reading, u could check that out, or some basics, or pay someone a nominal amt, to diagnose a start issue.

Spark issues alone, could be plugs, plug wires, coils, condensers, points (if original setups) and or wiring, including a combo. Points require a proper setup (gap) for operation & timing along with good clean contacts, the mechanical advance is also something to look at.

If u have spark, pull the plugs after a start attempt & should be some evidence of fuel there. No mention of using choke, which assists cold engine starts, that can make a big diff

if u still have the original plugs, they can give clues as to what's going on with the engine (could be black, brown, wet, dry, sooted etc), a compression check isn't a big deal & will give an idea what shape the engine is in, or the pistons, rings & or valves

Figure out what u have, as cheaply as possible, then go from there. Shouldn't take much, to diagnose a no start

A full blown restoration will be pricey , even if you are doing everything yourself and you will likely never be able to sell it for what you have
spent . Prices on the bikes we love are currently plummeting. Factor in the tariff BS we now must spend and it is even more costly.
That being said , it is important to remember that this is a hobby and not an investment strategy ( as I keep reminding myself while the $ fly out the door on my Dominator project) so keep that in mind when deciding what to do dollar wise. You can get an idea of value by monitoring on line sales sites - I think Bring a Trailer lets you track make/ models but prices there seem to be unusually high so beware .

Thanks for the input all. I'm really hoping the guy I found can get it up and running reliably and I can just maintain it at that point. I can turn a wrench, I just need to know what bolt needs adjusting. I currently have no plans on selling the bike, and realize I will likely have more into it than it will be worth. I don't have the old plugs, that was way to long ago, but I don't remember seeing anything very off with them. The oil I do remember being dark, but not burnt. I'll try to keep you all updated on the project. I'm currently having my 74 CB750 getting the carbs synced, I wanted to see what this guy can do with something before I brought in the Norton.

So the left side carb a screw hole has been stripped out (the part that has the AMAL logo)
this carb https://www.classicbritishspares.co...carburetor/products/amal-monobloc-carburetors
anyone know what the original hole size was? I would like to try and helicoil it. The screw still threads in but there isn't enough grip for it to stop it from leaking there with a new gasket. There isn't much room to really step the screw size up.

It’s a ‘62 so I would presume all the engine and chassis fasteners are British standard- either BSW, BSF, Or BSC. I can’t speak for the carbs though…. When did Amal make the switch to SAE?

Piefairy said:

So the left side carb a screw hole has been stripped out (the part that has the AMAL logo)
this carb https://www.classicbritishspares.co...carburetor/products/amal-monobloc-carburetors
anyone know what the original hole size was? I would like to try and helicoil it. The screw still threads in but there isn't enough grip for it to stop it from leaking there with a new gasket. There isn't much room to really step the screw size up.

Click to expand...

I have a pair of those on my 1962 650. I measured a screw at 0.182"and 24TPI - so probably 3/16 Whitworth.
But you could have done that since you have the screws?

If one's been butchered then chances are the other 2 have had the same treatment - plus the 3 on the chopped one
Cheers

Much more likely to be 2BA like the later Concentrics.

My thread spreadsheet says 2BA has 31.4 TPI thread - nowhere close to what I pulled out of my monobloc float bowl - double checked and it is 24 TPI

Original domed Amal monobloc float cover screw.



In the US 2BA is an obscure oddity, if the thread in the carb wears then outside UK it's easier to screw in a 3/16 fitting with a coarse thread rather than trying to get hold of a helicoil that no one has heard of. 2BA was used in a lot of electrical fittings as well as carbs and speedo's so it's easier to find in UK but getting harder.

M5x0.8 is very close to 2BA. 2BA is 0.185" o/d & 31.35 tpi. M5 coarse is 0.196" o/d & 31.75 tpi (0.8 divided into 25.4mm) If you can't get hold of BA stuff it might solve the problem

Helicoiling at that size should be fun anyway!

Thanks for the input. I'll try a 3/16ths, if it doesn't bite ill helicoil it to the nearest size. I don't think its worth buying a new carb over it.

It could very well be that your old carb is worn out anyway.

Rare? Probably.


I've had these 2BA Re-Coils longer than I can remember and also can't remember where I used them. Possibly in an early Commando timing cover at the points cover threads for the standoffs.

Me, I'd buy new carburetors before trying to use something like the re-coils in that crap metal Amal used during that time. I could probably do it, but as mentioned the carburetors might currently be scrap worthy.

I appreciate the advice but, what's the worst that happens? I mess up a junk carb? I've found the 3/16s coils cheap enough to roll the dice.

I think its a 2BA but with the screw P/N you can verify it on Greg Marsh's wonderful sortable fastener list. I have a 689 monoblock with the same problem and very successfully helicoiled one of the float bowl cover holes. I got the helicoil kit from British Fasteners while repairing a inner cover screw thread on my B44. If I hadn't had the kit already I doubt I would have repaired it because I pulled the monoblocks off my Atlas (where I was planning on using it) and put Concentrics on.

I would never buy a motorcycle as an investment. I only buy what is worth having - my mindset might be different. A complete 750cc Atlas is good value regardless of price. It is from the era of good performing motorcycles. In Australia, they are very rare - it would be nice to ride on a Sunday.

A '62 would have magneto ignition and Amal Monobloc carb(s). partway through the '67 model year the change was made to Concentric carbs and coil ignition. It would also have spigotted barrels and recessed head