Starting 71 rebuild
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grandpaul
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I have an original small can of "Miracle Power" in my shop somewhere. Looks to be from the 50s/60s. Not even sure what's in it...
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Sorry I thought it was a brand name. I'm still surprised 3M weather strip adhesive was never renamed "Gorilla Snot"
My chemistry teacher said this can's labeled contents is just not possible.
I have kept the now empty can in the garage for many years.
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just to be sure covered, the frame needs prepping prior to powdercoating
www.accessnorton.com
Powder coating frame components
I am about to get the frame swing arm and other black metal parts powder coated I read the document on old brits and it suggests filling all the holes with the appropriate bolts etc to eliminate powder coat in the holes I am assuming. Would be interested in feedback on this process and if this...
www.accessnorton.com
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I have some of the parts done .
you can see them when vapor blasted and then when polished.
engine and trans go out tomorrow.
powdercoating goes out this week when I receive my new front engine mount.
I did try and use a Kreem kit . Used the rust remover parts first.
it soaked completely full for 3 days. I was not satisfied , still rust inside.
I bought some METAL RESCUE. Rust remover today . Filled 1/2 the tank today and it cleaned up the rust left behind in about 1/2 hour . You could see the line I filled up to nice and clean .
above the line still had the left over rust .
you can see them when vapor blasted and then when polished.
engine and trans go out tomorrow.
powdercoating goes out this week when I receive my new front engine mount.
I did try and use a Kreem kit . Used the rust remover parts first.
it soaked completely full for 3 days. I was not satisfied , still rust inside.
I bought some METAL RESCUE. Rust remover today . Filled 1/2 the tank today and it cleaned up the rust left behind in about 1/2 hour . You could see the line I filled up to nice and clean .
above the line still had the left over rust .
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the metal rescue did not work as well as I thought .
after more careful inspection there was still rust .
this morning I bought two gallons of muriatic acid .
by the end of the afternoon it was clean .
I finished it with water rinsing , water and baking soda rinsing , the second part of the Kreem kit , then finally with the last part of the Kreem kit to coat and seal it.
came out good .
now I can send to the painters .
if I was doing another , I would go straight to the muriatic acid .
after more careful inspection there was still rust .
this morning I bought two gallons of muriatic acid .
by the end of the afternoon it was clean .
I finished it with water rinsing , water and baking soda rinsing , the second part of the Kreem kit , then finally with the last part of the Kreem kit to coat and seal it.
came out good .
now I can send to the painters .
if I was doing another , I would go straight to the muriatic acid .
grandpaul
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I would have recommended staying away from Kreem.
I don't know if it is the "Boyer Effect" (being the first and only product available for some time, means there are more of those than the competitors), but I have heard and seen more Kreem failures than all the others put together...
I don't know if it is the "Boyer Effect" (being the first and only product available for some time, means there are more of those than the competitors), but I have heard and seen more Kreem failures than all the others put together...
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Too late now . It’s dry in my tank .
I will use it and see what happens .
most days I dump aviation fuel in my bikes . It is not as hard on stuff as auto fuel .
maybe some auto fuels are worse than others ?
in one of my harleys that I had performance work done to it , high test in Canada worked great .
in Nevada high test is not too good. It self destructed here from detonation .
the Harley shop here told me that you cannot run more than 9.5 compression ratio here with the poor high test.
they rebuilt my motor with a different cam , new pistons with less compression . No more detonation .
I did not like the engine after this . It’s been parked for 16 years now . But still looks brand new .
so I guess fuels across the country are different , even though the pump sign leads us to think it is the same grade ?
I will use it and see what happens .
most days I dump aviation fuel in my bikes . It is not as hard on stuff as auto fuel .
maybe some auto fuels are worse than others ?
in one of my harleys that I had performance work done to it , high test in Canada worked great .
in Nevada high test is not too good. It self destructed here from detonation .
the Harley shop here told me that you cannot run more than 9.5 compression ratio here with the poor high test.
they rebuilt my motor with a different cam , new pistons with less compression . No more detonation .
I did not like the engine after this . It’s been parked for 16 years now . But still looks brand new .
so I guess fuels across the country are different , even though the pump sign leads us to think it is the same grade ?
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I have all my parts back from powdercoating . They look very nice.
my transmission is apart , ordered new bearings and few other small parts.
tran cases out getting vapor blasting and polishing the outer case.
engine coming apart now .
chrome parts should be back next week
front forks all rebuilt and polished
going to send tank and side covers out to vintage vendor for the new paint.
wheels are all ready .
my transmission is apart , ordered new bearings and few other small parts.
tran cases out getting vapor blasting and polishing the outer case.
engine coming apart now .
chrome parts should be back next week
front forks all rebuilt and polished
going to send tank and side covers out to vintage vendor for the new paint.
wheels are all ready .
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grandpaul
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Nice, but not excellent.
You need to carefully remove the coating from the areas around the 4 main isolastic mounts (2 front, 2 rear, inner and outer faces). Then, shoot them with a single spray shot of Rust-O-Leum gloss black from about 8" away. Do a test shot on a sheet of paper, to get the feel for it. One shot each.
Otherwise, your isolastics will never be right.
Same goes for the transmission cradle & front iso mount tube- ALL of the mounting holes for the engine & transmission. MANY reports of broken bolts otherwise.
Transmission cradle will also need the ENTIRE contact area for the swingarm bushing caps, and their installation "path" cleared.
You will find that you have to scrape the coating off the mouths of the iso tubes, or the caps will not go on. One-shot touches of Rust-O-Leum when you are all done scraping.
All of this is covered in Old Britt's tech pages and has been mentioned here many times. Sorry I forgot to mention it before you sent your stuff out. http://www.oldbritts.com/powder_coating.html
grandpaul
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Hey, it happened to me on MY first build, and it's happened to MANY others, so don't feel too bad.
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That’s fine , I don’t feel bad at all .
still learning new things to me .
most parts coming along good , should hopefully be going together soon . Some parts are actually together now .
waiting for the transmission bearings .
my fuel tank was rusty inside , bought a Kreem kit , part A did not remove much of the rust after 72 hours .
tried metal restorer next , a bit but not much better .
went to Lowe’s got some cheap muriatic acid .
That did the job perfect in about 4 hours .
cleaned the acid with a number water rinses and then two baking soda rinses .
looked good , then used the Kreem part B
then the Kreem liner .
the liner did not do a good job
now I will use the acetone to try and get it out
YIKES !
still learning new things to me .
most parts coming along good , should hopefully be going together soon . Some parts are actually together now .
waiting for the transmission bearings .
my fuel tank was rusty inside , bought a Kreem kit , part A did not remove much of the rust after 72 hours .
tried metal restorer next , a bit but not much better .
went to Lowe’s got some cheap muriatic acid .
That did the job perfect in about 4 hours .
cleaned the acid with a number water rinses and then two baking soda rinses .
looked good , then used the Kreem part B
then the Kreem liner .
the liner did not do a good job
now I will use the acetone to try and get it out
YIKES !
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When I had my Interstate tank sprayed in the mid 90s, i had it dipped at a radiator shop before. Then after the painter sent me to a aviation supply shop by Boeing field for a liner. Whatever they gave me has held up since then.
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I used an aviation liner to cover the opening.
its a grey fuel tank sealer .
I need to get the KREEM liner out.
theirsite says you can acetone .
I filled it half full of acetone last night and will check it tomorrow.
it was thicker on the tank bottom.
I did drain best I could after sloshing with the KREEM but it still slowly runs down to puddle somewhat.
QUESTION , when you buy a new tank is it just raw untreated steel inside ?
maybe I should get tank cleaned out again and leave it untreated ?
its a grey fuel tank sealer .
I need to get the KREEM liner out.
theirsite says you can acetone .
I filled it half full of acetone last night and will check it tomorrow.
it was thicker on the tank bottom.
I did drain best I could after sloshing with the KREEM but it still slowly runs down to puddle somewhat.
QUESTION , when you buy a new tank is it just raw untreated steel inside ?
maybe I should get tank cleaned out again and leave it untreated ?
grandpaul
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Yes, new, raw steel, inside & out.
