Official Oil Line Routing Thread (2010)

[swooshdave]

Here's the "Oil filter kit fitting instructions" http://britmoto.com/manuals/Manuals/Oil_Kit.pdf

Quote:
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"8. Slide the protection springs over both new oil return pipes.


9. Route the kickstart side oil return pipe up through the space between the engine plate and rear of the gearbox casing, over the top of the gearbox inner cover and engage to the inboard oil junction block pipe at least 1¼in. (32mm), securing with the new screw type clip."
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Your oil pipe look as if it could be thicker walled (and therefore stiffer) than the original, so that would probably make fitting it a little more difficult-but maybe not impossible? I think a protection spring would be a useful addition.

If I hadn't seen the picture I would have never tried to thread it through there. I need to figure out how to protect the line from the adjuster. It looks like the clutch cable on Horton's keeps the lines away from the adjuster.

 

[Hortons Norton]

If the line is a little longer you could have a little arch on it and maybe go over it, Sorry L.A.B. if the photos a too large. I changed them and I went too big, Sorry. Oh Dave remember you will have the clutch cable to go around and that will help to hold it away from the adjuster.

 

[L.A.B.]

Sorry L.A.B. if the photos a too large. I changed them and I went too big, Sorry.

No problem, the auto-cropper will chop a piece off the image if it's too large, that's all.

 

[swooshdave]

Final pictures for this thread.

Thanks to Horton and LAB for the help. She's all buttoned up and ready for oil. Well, until it leaks.

 

[cheen]

Hi

Has anyone installed this oil filter kit on an early model Commando? The oil tank is different to the later models and it calls for a different routing of the pipes. If anyone has already done this please post me a photo before I make a mess of mine. (1970 Roadster).

Thanks
Steve

 

[lcrken]

Good luck with that, LAB. I've just gone through the same exercise with my new Mk III. The feed line from the oil tank, and the return to the filter are pretty straightforward, but the return line from the filter to the oil tank is a pita. No really good illustrations in any of the service manuals or parts books. They just say it should go up behind the iso mount and over to the oil tank. That area is pretty much filled by the horn. I managed to squeeze it through just above the horn, but it makes a pretty sharp bend to get to the tank. I'm pretty sure that's not exactly right, but I can't seem to make it fit any other way, so it will have to do for now. I'll come back to it later, after the rally, and find a way to route it without the sharp bend. If anyone can provide a picture that shows the original routing, that would be great. I'd post a picture of mine, but I can't get one that shows any real details without removing the fender, and I'm kind of tired of putting it on and taking it off. Maybe later.

Ken

 

[L.A.B.]

Good luck with that, LAB.

I think you must be confusing me with somebody else (plus this thread is five years old) ? :?

 

[lcrken]

Good luck with that, LAB.

I think you must be confusing me with somebody else (plus this thread is five years old) ? :?

Sorry about that. I just looked at the date on cheen's post, but not on the previous ones. I should have picked up on that. I knew that you had finished your Mk III some time ago, but it just slipped my mind. In any case, Your last pictures answered my question anyhow. Your final return hose routing works well because you have no horn in the way. I'll probably just remove mine to make room for the hose.

Ken

 

[Hobot]

What a bunch of wuzzes, both Peel and Trixie were routed with some blood sweat tears the herring bone hose and the sprial steel coil armor tubes and mount hook yet not rub anything raw. Next Peel forgoes the unversal common SS braid for more interesting and pleasant to handle patterned woven fabric covered hose.

 

[L.A.B.]

Good luck with that, LAB.

I think you must be confusing me with somebody else (plus this thread is five years old) ? :?

Sorry about that. I just looked at the date on cheen's post, but not on the previous ones. I should have picked up on that. I knew that you had finished your Mk III some time ago, but it just slipped my mind. In any case, Your last pictures answered my question anyhow. Your final return hose routing works well because you have no horn in the way. I'll probably just remove mine to make room for the hose.

Ken

Well, I posted a couple of photos on page one of this thread showing where the return pipe normally passes through the cradle, and the horn on my bike is in the usual position-so I don't know which photos you are attributing to me-but I doubt they are mine?

As for "finished"-are they ever? :wink:

 

[Danno]

Not to change the subject, but what's the idea behind the second primary chain adjuster? Belt-and-suspenders? Can the gearbox twist with only one?

 

[L.A.B.]

Not to change the subject, but what's the idea behind the second primary chain adjuster? Belt-and-suspenders? Can the gearbox twist with only one?

The second adjuster is recommended when using a belt drive where mainshaft alignment is more critical.

http://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/gearbox- ... es_832.htm

 

[lcrken]

Well, I posted a couple of photos on page one of this thread showing where the return pipe normally passes through the cradle, and the horn on my bike is in the usual position-so I don't know which photos you are attributing to me-but I doubt they are mine?

As for "finished"-are they ever? :wink:

I really have to take more time reading before posting responses. You're quite right. The pictures I was referring to were not yours. They were the "Final pictures for this thread" posted by swooshdave. Like hobot's bike, Dave's shows no horn in the way.

Ken

 

[lcrken]

in spite of all my mis-attributions to LAB, I do appreciate the pictures posted by swooshdave, LAB, hortons norton, hobot. They have been very helpful to me in sorting out my latest Mk III. One thing they have convinced me of is that if I want a clean routing of the oil line from the filter to the oil tank, I need to either move the horn to a different location, or make up a custom bent hard line to go through that area. It's not that I can't get the hose through that area, it's that I don't like the sharp bend in the hose. In any case, it's going to get ridden that way for a while.

Ken

 

[swooshdave]

I have a Fiamm horn that is not in the stock location. It's under the battery box and pointing out to the left.

 

[Anonymous]

...and now back to the official oil line routing thread.
This variation accomodates 'in and out hoses', 'breather to catchcan' and 'oil thermostat to oil cooler' through the same area and still has clearance for primary chain adjustment.
Ta.

 

[cheen]

My problem is that the oil lines on the old model are shorter leaving less room for maneuver.

 

[lwmcd1]

Just want to say be very careful. I have mixed mine up and only caught because I pretty much double and triple check everything I do. You do NOT want to run it if it's wrong.

 

[Hobot]

still waiting to see photo or claim to route as factory *with* factory armor cover and mount hook while accommodating horn w/o kinks nor rubbing raw. Expand routing views via late Heinz Kegler clamp and oil line with photos.

heinz-kegler-clamp-and-oil-line-routing-t17855.html

 

[Egholt]

Why not route the oil lines under the gearbox ?

Michael