Norton Rigid 1936 ES2

So bit more fun this week finally had a good run out, still carrying a few teething problems but managed to get to our local bike café, made it almost all the way home but the final 1/2 mile was in my van..... working through a few more challenges.....

I was talking to a friend who road raced a while back. Somebody had sold him a works single knocker 600cc Manx sidecar motor which he had in a garden gate frame. He sold it back to John Surtees who had owned it before it came to Australia. Apparently a lot of cammy Norton stuff was sold in Brisbane in the 50s and 60s.

Nice ride out on Sunday seem to have the hang of getting it started but what surprised me the most was how quick this was, looking forward to completing a few more changes so some more updates to follow.

Been playing with the front brake and adding some number boards + modifying the exhaust had intended to get the other half on the bum seat but having ridden it and hit a few pot holes its not going to happen - good news we need another bike now...…..

paul cardy said:

Been playing with the front brake and adding some number boards + modifying the exhaust had intended to get the other half on the bum seat but having ridden it and hit a few pot holes its not going to happen

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You may be able to rotate the threaded jaw that the cable adjuster screws into, so the inner cable doesn’t chafe on the adjuster like that.

I agree with you/your Mrs that rigid framed bikes are seriously bumpy.

Just prior to Nortons becoming overhead camshaft, the Model 18 was the mainstay of their racing efforts. They won a lot of races. So what you have in your ES2, has probably got a lot of authenticity. Perhaps you should read up on Norton's racing history before you modify your bike too much ? I would not be deterred by the fact that it has a rigid frame, that is what they were back in the era. Most race circuits are fairly smooth and if all the other bikes are also rigid framed, the playing field is level. There is a video about Norton on Youtube I was watching yesterday which had a bit to say about the Model 18. I never knew that they were actually raced to such an extent. But when you think about it, the difference in power between OHC and pushrod motors is not really that big.

Apparently when James Landsdowne died, it was just before the OHC Nortons began racing. He was responsible for the design. However while he was alive, he saw the Model 18 being extremely successful in road races.

I rather liked how it looked in the first shot,but understand the need to make it a practical rider. Making improvements that don't shout "NEW PARTS" is an art form .perhaps new parts should be tied to a rope and dragged behind the pick up for a few miles to "distress" them!!. Or let the kids use it as a field bike for a month.It may never be an OLD bike again. If you can find an old pre-monoblock carb or a tired looking amal TT I would see that as a worthy improvement, Check the cam timing with a degree disc and ignore cam markings ,often the cause of poor performance on these singles. I also have a 1936 bike, getting parts that compliment the bike is a problem.

The problem with parts for old bikes, is probably that old guys such as myself hoard them. I still have a genuine international oil tank and two upright gearboxes. I look at your inter and to me it is a really lovely old jigger. Please do not update it too much. Even the small details such as levers and rubbers need to be period. What you have got is intrinsically valuable because of it's authenticity. Over the years I have chased bits to build an old Norton racer, they are like hen's teeth. My friend had a CSI. He used the motor in a three-quarter midget racing car and fitted an Indian motor into the frame. It was enough to make me cry tears of blood.

I have a 1936 road bike that has the performance of a 1960 500 sports bike in cycle parts that are 82 years old. People still race them and win , I am trying to work out what I'm doing with it.

Thanks for all the comments guys, I took this bike on an epic ride Sunday as part of our local DGR, it got lots of positive remarks and plenty of nods of the head, the bike handles some fairly heavy traffic and some nice open roads, marked each stop over with its oily calling card but otherwise behaved impeccably. Lots of people wanted me to leave the bike as it is and I understand that approach and I take on board the comments on not over restoring it, the original picture as I purchased it started with a bike that had not seen a lot of love recently, had a Honda tank and a gearbox that didn't function so if its about keeping these bikes on the road and working hopefully that box has been ticked. Next is to return some of its finish and dig a bit deeper with replacing any worn parts.
The bike is now fully stripped down and the jobs list includes new wheel bearings as a couple are a bit notchy & new front shoes. The gearbox now functions really well but leaks oil which needs a further look - does anyone have any recommendations for oil grade / type which may stay inside the box!! ? I am going to use this opportunity to also look at the engine and check its health and maybe look into gaining some further performance + painting the tank and other parts. Its been a great learning curve so far and I see lots of fun to come.

With old leaky boxes the temptation is to fill them with a liquid grease . Some boxes need oil to get into the bushes though. and splash is often the only way the lube gets to places. Someone will know.

A while ago I had a very nice Amal GP carburettor which would have fitted that. Would have looked better than a Monobloc.

Acotrel or anyone else if you have any parts which may be more period happy to discuss.

I don't know where you live, but freight charges might kill any transactions. I have one upright gearbox which is complete and one in pieces. I also have an oil tank off an early International. I think that carburettor is at a friend's place in the next town. When I see him, I will ask about it. It was in excellent condition, but too small for a Manx or G50.

So the strip down has been completed and this weekend I picked up the parts from the painters and started re assembly, wheels are being treated to new SS spokes and bearings & front brake shoes so hoping this will improve the front end. Just treated myself to some lockwire and pliers as almost all the bolts have been drilled by a previous owner hoping all the fixings and bolts will be ready from the platers this week and we can start on the wheel building.

Those parts are far too smooth and shiney!, spray them with some salty water and leave outside for a few weeks. A few passes with a gas torch then a light coat of waxoil thinned with used diesel sump oil then a dusting of yard dirt. Perfection.

acotrel said:

A while ago I had a very nice Amal GP carburettor which would have fitted that. Would have looked better than a Monobloc.

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An older TT carb would look even better .

The outline plan is to give the engine a refresh and maybe some performance enhancements including a new carb maybe going to a Amal GP or something pre monoblock.

The shiny parts are staying and will get the patina from the use its going to get when is back together......

The TT carb would be more "in period" as would a pre monoblock 289 or similar carb for which spares would be a bit easier. The only disadvantage with these is the non levered float tendency to drip fuel now and then. A remote float allows better levelling and resistance to vibration. Looks a bit more racy too. The Mono just looks all wrong.