Seems to me your bike is in good hands !The two smaller parts in place:
Test on the bike..
and finally with the tank and making sure the mounting screws still fit
I wanted to keep the rear flush, as the battery and the coil mount right up against my new plates
Closer inspection seems to indicate reasonable weld penetration, but might run a couple of weld seams here and grind right back to flush.
Pretty much done!
Looks like salt damage ?Have a few things on order, so while I'm waiting, I wanted to take a look at this area, as it annoys me:
I want to clean up the engine mounts, clean up and repaint the front of the engine and replace those locking nuts. The socket bolts are A4 stainless, so are ok..slightly surprised to find A4 hardware, but I guess they are OK in this application.
Engine supported, just in case this is needed..there are two mounts at the back, but want to add extra support while I removed the front engine mounts.
This is why I'm not a fan of powder coating..at least in impact areas. Typically it doesn't have a primer..although I know some process do...but once chipped/damaged, rust starts and the powder coat flakes off. Looks like a laser cut plate though!
100% agree about the lack of powder coating. Another problem is some places don’t even sand blast before powder coating. Makes the surface less to adhere tooHave a few things on order, so while I'm waiting, I wanted to take a look at this area, as it annoys me:
I want to clean up the engine mounts, clean up and repaint the front of the engine and replace those locking nuts. The socket bolts are A4 stainless, so are ok..slightly surprised to find A4 hardware, but I guess they are OK in this application.
Engine supported, just in case this is needed..there are two mounts at the back, but want to add extra support while I removed the front engine mounts.
This is why I'm not a fan of powder coating..at least in impact areas. Typically it doesn't have a primer..although I know some process do...but once chipped/damaged, rust starts and the powder coat flakes off. Looks like a laser cut plate though!
Highly likely, we salt our roads here. I normally coat my bikes in ACF50 for the ones I'll ride through the winter...just one really....so I'll need to abrade this back to a sound base before applying paint on the block. The plates will be blasted and painted, the nuts replaced! It will transform this area. The sensor will be checked as well, plus new retaining bolt.
Those Trans/Primary vent kits are made by Coote's ! Same with the battery mat and tools. Everything " One 0 Seven " !The guys at CNW have come through though! vent kit, some tools and a battery matt...all for my vintage motorcycle!
Do you guys have POR 15 available where you are in the world?
por15.com
www.accessnorton.com
Yep, there is a specialist supplier here. I think it’s more for ferrous substrates, but I’m pretty sure they do aluminium primer.Do you guys have POR 15 available where you are in the world?
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This is the stuff that magazines and internet videos score highest in the U.K.:
XCP Rust Blocker, Rust Protection Spray 400ml Aerosol Can + Free Extension Lance 5060283630047 | eBay
XCP Rust Blocker will provide a long lasting, soft film that resists cracking and provides outstanding protection against rust and corrosion. Treat the relevant area directly with a uniform coating of XCP Rust Blocker.www.ebay.co.uk
I recently did a rather more amateurish test myself and found the same result for XCP Rust Blocker. ACF50 appeared to be not much better than WD40 to me:
Best corrosion protection
Ok, when I say ‘best corrosion protection’ I really mean ‘which is the best out of the 4 types I’ve got in the shed’? All 4 sprayed and left, not rubbed or buffed or etc. Left to right: 1. Mr Sheen: a household wax based spray furniture polish. 2. Muc-off: a proprietary motorcycle ‘protector’...
Buy cheap paint sprayer for your compressor and spray bike.
Yep, exactly what I have. One of those small guns...half a litre capacity or so. I’ve found a little goes a long way! I’m going to get the bike back together with the refurbished parts, then I’ll do exactly that. I’d normally do before winter, but in this case, I think it’s good advice to do now. I keep hearing good things about xcp. Is it the same, as in you can spray it everywhere, excepting wheels, tryres brakes and controls?
Yep, some stainless would be nice. There might be an engineering company who could copy them as well. I remember passing some drawings to a local company who made some bits for me for another project...might be worth a call when things are open. Solutions are right now, blast and repaint (I've use Halfords truck bed paint...called something like that...it was a slightly textured finish I used on a project as it had to match an existing mount for another bit of kit, but proved to be very hard wearing) but another option might be to have them chromed for some bling, or simply cad plated then painted for protection.Hi - I am a great fan of just spraying chain wax around. It's designed to stick and some claim to have rust resistant chemicals. Use it a lot under car bonnet and chassis bits. Also Dinitrol products are great. They do a really good paintable rust converting spray which leaves a protective film. I used to own a Jaguar XKR so have extensive experience in the subject
My current list of bad areas are;
Engine mounts - surely someone can create a CAD file and get some stainless ones made???? Anyone?????
Swingarm hugger mount
Where the rear light bodywork thing screws to the rear frame - water sits in the screw wells?
Under seat cross plate by where air filter top cover screws on.
Wheel spindles as described elsewhere.
Good point. I can see on mine where those sharp edges have chipped first. I foresee some strategic smooothing!
