Is it necessary to remove the head prior to removal of the motor from the frame. I have the 750 stripped down to the point the only remaining items in the frame are the motor, gearbox and battery box. I removed the rear engine mounts and realized one of the front mounting bolts requires the removal of the timing covers. My next few steps included unbolting the front ISO brackets from the frame and the headsteady. Will I have enough room with carbs, and front ISO assembly attached to get the motor out?
Motor Removal??
- Thread starter T95
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If not a Combat with the low rear breather baffle, I like to take out tranny and then the two iso bolts to use cradle as a handle to lift engine/cradle out as a unit.
W/o the baffle tranny can be tipped enough to come out, otherwise Combat engine must be removed or lose and tipped forward to get gearbox out.
Engine is 70+ lb or so I'd say. Issue to remove head id the dang push rod fumbles to get em up past the rocker and zip tie up to clear barrel. If you ever have the chance to get rocker arms out I highly reccommend a mild safe grind off their ends to pass push rods w/o a fuss.
Putting engine back is the tougher job. I like to get engine nipped up in cradle
then just slip in the two iso bolts.
W/o the baffle tranny can be tipped enough to come out, otherwise Combat engine must be removed or lose and tipped forward to get gearbox out.
Engine is 70+ lb or so I'd say. Issue to remove head id the dang push rod fumbles to get em up past the rocker and zip tie up to clear barrel. If you ever have the chance to get rocker arms out I highly reccommend a mild safe grind off their ends to pass push rods w/o a fuss.
Putting engine back is the tougher job. I like to get engine nipped up in cradle
then just slip in the two iso bolts.
Neither the workshop or Haynes manuals that I have address removal of an in-tack motor. They do address dissemble of the top end in the frame. I know some favor installing a complete motor into the frame, so I am thinking it should come out in-tack. At this point my only reason to keep it in-tack is to reduce the number of parts lying around.
DogT
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Sidriley and I pulled his engine out intact, but then he had almost everything else off. Standard 750 engine. Personally I think it is much easier if you pull the head and barrels, especially if you are working alone. Just makes it so much easier, same going back in, I put the engine in in parts despite having to fight the rod issue which can be overcome with being very careful and methodical.
Dave
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Dave
69S
grandpaul
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The book refers to the intact engine as the "power unit", and it can indeed be removed and/or installed intact.
Prepare for the job of your life to remove the low mounted crankcase breather in place!
As has been stated numerous times, it is easier, and weighs less, with the top end off.
I've done it both ways without too much fuss, but then I suffer from backaches on a regular basis...
Prepare for the job of your life to remove the low mounted crankcase breather in place!
As has been stated numerous times, it is easier, and weighs less, with the top end off.
I've done it both ways without too much fuss, but then I suffer from backaches on a regular basis...
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Easier and more sensible to remove head and barrels first also easier to remove cam nut and oil pump gear before you remove the primary side (so much easier to lock things up with just the back brake than on the bench)
The installation though I always prefer to build the engine as a whole on the bench then put it back as a complete unit, one of those jobs where it either slips in or your fighting with it for a while, always easier with an extra pair of hands though!
Biggest PITA is of course the collapsible frame when you take the motor out :roll:
The installation though I always prefer to build the engine as a whole on the bench then put it back as a complete unit, one of those jobs where it either slips in or your fighting with it for a while, always easier with an extra pair of hands though!
Biggest PITA is of course the collapsible frame when you take the motor out :roll:
I found pulling the motor with head a piece of cake. Work with the motor and head on the bench has it's own rewards. Ensemble was the same way. Installing the head on the bench made that whole pushrod thing a lot easier. Putting the motor back in with the head on was again no big deal and was well worth it.
As far as the timing cover having to come off to remove the motor mount is not right. Carbs should come off before removal.
As far as the timing cover having to come off to remove the motor mount is not right. Carbs should come off before removal.
rvich
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I understand the idea of not wanting parts laying around. I just finished stripping my 850 and reassembled everything into the group it came from. It really doesn't take very long and it saved me from wondering later. I pulled the head, I wanted a look in there anyway, and then loosely reassembled it on the bench. I figure I might as well get some practice on those pushrods before I have a completely rebuilt motor to mess up!
FWIW-you do not have to take the timing cover off. That bolt slides out to the drive side. Or should anyway.
Russ
FWIW-you do not have to take the timing cover off. That bolt slides out to the drive side. Or should anyway.
Russ
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