johnm
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- Joined
- Feb 26, 2008
- Messages
- 1,771
Thanks. That's a useful photo and I will compare with mine today. I'm using the original 2 BA screws and fitting went fine apart from changing the throttle nipple. Silver soldered a new nipple. The cable adapter was too large in diameter to fit into my throttle grip.sorry to hear about the interference issue. on my first install, I reused the original carb screws, but was uncomfortable with only a couple threads engaged because of the thickness of the top plate, so I opted to go with longer screws. longer 2BA originals were pricey, and couldn't find any local U.S. stock, so I opted to go with the 5mm - local ace hardware stock. I had the taps, so it was only a couple dollars to switch. off the top of my head, i'm thinking the thread pitch was almost identical and the diameter was only .010" larger. i'm thinking part on the reason why I had to enlarge the mounting hole was because of the hardware switch. it's not relevant to your issue now, but here's a pic of the area - hard to tell, but I probably have a good quarter inch from the cable pillar to the tank --
one final thing, pretty sure I have a non-stock throttle grip, it looks to be some sort of 1/4 turn assembly. when I installed the cable, there was no way to use the cable adapter. am I over looking something and do I need that part, or is it OK as is? it seems to work ok without the adapter, and the cable end fits the twist grip.
I imagine there have been many many types of throttle hand pieces out there over the years.
If I can find a fix to the clearance issue I'll get some longer 2 BA cap screws. Allan keys are much easier to use on the carb tops.
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