John Player Special restoration project

grandpaul · Feb 3, 2016

After a mind-numbing disappearance of the box with new rings in it, new set arrived today.

End gap is zero right out of the box. First pass with the belt grinder produced .006, still not enough

Just a touch or two to even up the edges and .011 feeler slides in tight

Prepped to install pistons & cylinders

A bit of a fiddle without a helper, but the cylinders are in place and snugged down

grandpaul · Feb 3, 2016

Set TDC to prep for static timing the points

Set degree wheel at zero with pistons at TDC.

Not exactly... Rotate backwards WELL PAST 28 degree mark, past the dial. THEN come FORWARD to 28 degrees BTDC.

28 degrees BTDC.

NOW install the fully advanced and chocked AAU / points cam, rotate it counter-clockwise till the points JUST start to open, then tap it home into the camshaft. Install the points plate at mid-adjustment point. Unlock the AAU cam without disturbing it's location on the cam, and install the through bolt tightly. Static timing done.

grandpaul · Feb 3, 2016

Old (lower) and new (upper) timing cover seals.

Points JUST opening. Tested with lightweight wrapping paper (same as using cigarette paper)

Everything torqued down. Just need to adjust the valves and re-install carbs, coils & exhaust. MIGHT get to fire it up Thursday, for sure by Friday.

grandpaul · Feb 6, 2016

"Let there be light"...and there was light.

No smoke = good day.

Neatly bundled wiring. I'll remove the velcro once the wiring gets some "memory". Did they use John Bull rubber wire ties or the solf aluminum ones?

Ready to attempt a startup once I double-check the points timing and set up a different tank. I thought about using the one from the bobber, but it's 'glass and I don't want to risk contamination as it's not yet lined.

grandpaul · Feb 6, 2016

Materials to fabricate (3) sets of JPN fairing mounts arrived Thursday evening; I need to carve out a couple of hours to visit a muffler shop to make 3 bends, then start cutting and welding.

Another bit of JPN advertising material...

PeterJoe · Feb 9, 2016

grandpaul said:
Did they use John Bull rubber wire ties or the solf aluminum ones?

Originally from 1972 the Norton Commando used black nylon cable ties. According to the parts book (in page Group 21) there are a total of 14. One of them happens to be listed as 15 inches long which I assume goes around the frame's top tube. The others are 7 3/4 inches and 5 3/4 inches long. The ones I like to use are .190 inch wide made by Thomas & Betts and called Ty-Rap high performance ties. These have a steel tang in the head that holds the cable tie together. They seem to be more infinitely adjustable and the back side of the tie rap that touches the wiring or frame is a lot smoother than the all nylon type ties and less harsh on the painted surface.

Peter Joe

grandpaul · Feb 18, 2016

First reproduction project: main fairing mount.

Harbor Freight special pipe bender.

Although the pipes were filled with sand, the first bend resulted in a slightly flattened profile (fixed with the vice)

grandpaul · Feb 18, 2016

Primary parts for the first 3 main mount copies rough cut and ready for sizing.

First two copies of the main mount welded up.

Spacers for the lower front mount; a little long so they can be ground and sanded to final size

grandpaul · Feb 18, 2016

Front clamp half blanks prepped to drill, spacers finish sized.

Will need to use an end mill and some spacers to cut the clamp half profiles

Drilling the clamp halves. Not as precise as I had hoped; I'm ordering more material to do them right on a better drill press.

grandpaul · Feb 18, 2016

About half of the holes unacceptably off center.

Top and front mounts drilled and ready for powdercoat.

grandpaul · Mar 11, 2016

I finally received the original pattern JPN Solo seat with upholstery pan-

Sure looks large...

Waiting for Airtech to be done copying my fairing, and I'll get all the bodywork on and done!

grandpaul · Mar 11, 2016

Also got back the fairing brackets from the powdercoater. Next I'll reverse-engineer and pattern one made from square tube as shown in the JPN parts supplement; that will be a bit tricky without a part on hand to match...

splatt · Mar 11, 2016

I'm glad you also found the holes unacceptably off center

You could always stamp made in CHINA on them

grandpaul · Apr 28, 2016

Airtech has been dragging with returning my fairings, but the upholsterer made me smile Wednesday with a beautiful job. note the print-outs of photos of every seat that could be clearly seen to get the pattern as clost to correct as possible.

Very clean upholstery work. One for me, and one for sale with the spare bodywork kit. Only change from original is the slots in the seat base, and the lips on the upholstery pan (unseen). If I can get good clear pix of an original base & pan underside, I'll have a new one made to match.

(new sticker set on order, these were quite old)

grandpaul · May 2, 2016

Confirmed tracking number on my original fairing and the new Airtech copy; ETA this Friday.

That only leaves one week to assemble, align and trim it all out, then have a shake-down run before the BMOA rallye.

I'm starting to get excited about seeing it together FINALLY. About 6 months since I picked the bike up.

grandpaul · May 10, 2016

I'm very disappointed (upset?) with Airtech; they mis-handled the original fairing and it now has visible crazing in several places. This is the worst, and it's VERY obvious on the right side, in plain view. It goes away at 10 feet, but it'll never "go away" without a respray.

This will be the spare bodywork kit for sale including mounts and gas tank under the shroud. Windscreen, front fender and decal kits will be included if the buyer wishes.

grandpaul · May 10, 2016

Points kept giving me fits, the AAU was worn and sticking / "flicking", so I went straight to a new Sparx unit. Set up the crank for static timing.

Sparx unit static timed here with the white dot in the CCW window.

Sparx ignition module tucked in neatly and zip-tied to the frame tube. I left all original wiring in place but disconnected and tucked out of view. Buyer will receive the original points with pigtail & AAU.

grandpaul · May 10, 2016

Rear view. Needs a bit of tweaking to get better symmetry.

Top view

Right side beauty shot, FINALLY. I will be doing a proper photo shoot later this week, probably 2 or 3 venues...

grandpaul · May 10, 2016

Right side close-up

Front shot, also needs a bit of a tweak on the fender

Overhead front shot, here the fender is obvious.

grandpaul · May 10, 2016

Left side close-up

Left side "not ready for prime time"; missing Union Jack decal on the tail.

Oblique shot.

John Player Special restoration project

Similar threads