Grant's Featherbed Special
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Fast Eddie
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Well, I'm pretty sure I ain't never seen a 'machined from solid' swinging arm before !!
Weren't you tempted to try the wooden one ?
Weren't you tempted to try the wooden one ?
Do you know what - that wooden one is made from birch ply, and I swear to God i'm convinced it would be strong enough to handle a blast up and down the road!!!
Maybe the shock mounts would need strengthening up a bit, as they were only held on by 1/4 inch woodscrews, but the rest would have been fine!!!
Perhaps I could do a steampunk featherbed in the future!!!!
Maybe the shock mounts would need strengthening up a bit, as they were only held on by 1/4 inch woodscrews, but the rest would have been fine!!!
Perhaps I could do a steampunk featherbed in the future!!!!
Building this swinging arm has probably been the most enjoyable part of this project so far.
Going from the original, through all the different stages to what I have ended up with has been really rewarding.
Plus I can look at it and say, there isn't another one like it, and it's totally my own!
Going from the original, through all the different stages to what I have ended up with has been really rewarding.
Plus I can look at it and say, there isn't another one like it, and it's totally my own!
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Fast Eddie
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Well Morgans have a wooden chassis, so why not a wooden swinging arm??
But seriously, the finished article, all nicely polished and in situ just looks stunning!
But seriously, the finished article, all nicely polished and in situ just looks stunning!
Yes, it is the Öhlins S36P
Length is 305mm and fitment is for a Harly FXD
I was aiming for 300mm, and because these are fully adjustable, i can tune out the additional 5mm easily
The springs were swapped out for the 280-18 kit
the spring rate on these is 102lbs and the length is 200mm
Preload, compression and rebound are all fully adjustable so this will be done by feel to match the front end.
Length is 305mm and fitment is for a Harly FXD
I was aiming for 300mm, and because these are fully adjustable, i can tune out the additional 5mm easily
The springs were swapped out for the 280-18 kit
the spring rate on these is 102lbs and the length is 200mm
Preload, compression and rebound are all fully adjustable so this will be done by feel to match the front end.
Fast Eddie
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I had a pair of those on a Hyde Harrier, they are very, very good.
However, the sheer amount of adjustability can have you chasing your tail if you're not careful.
I'm sure a man of your calibre will be fine, but for what its worth, my approach was to set everything to the starting point recommended in the book and then follow three rules:
Firstly, understand (and record) the extent of adjustability of each setting.
Secondly, based on this knowledge, adjust compression, rebound and preload settings together pro-rata (shocks are not devices containing 3 seperate functionalities, they are a cohesive 'system').
Finally, always adjust in large amounts, each single click will be unnoticeable to a normal person (I calculated 4 basic settings as a start point, all pro rata, and one of these ended up as my 'ideal' setting).
When you have a good final setting, then fine tune each one individually if required. But in theory, if Ohlins know what hey are doing (ie the cohesive system comment) this should not be necessary
However, the sheer amount of adjustability can have you chasing your tail if you're not careful.
I'm sure a man of your calibre will be fine, but for what its worth, my approach was to set everything to the starting point recommended in the book and then follow three rules:
Firstly, understand (and record) the extent of adjustability of each setting.
Secondly, based on this knowledge, adjust compression, rebound and preload settings together pro-rata (shocks are not devices containing 3 seperate functionalities, they are a cohesive 'system').
Finally, always adjust in large amounts, each single click will be unnoticeable to a normal person (I calculated 4 basic settings as a start point, all pro rata, and one of these ended up as my 'ideal' setting).
When you have a good final setting, then fine tune each one individually if required. But in theory, if Ohlins know what hey are doing (ie the cohesive system comment) this should not be necessary
Great advice - thanks for that!
Yes, i will certainly be creeping up on the setup, and only be adjusting one thing at a time!
I am very lucky in that I have a good friend that used to be a motorbike technician on newer jap bikes, plus he is into trials bikes, so knows a think or two about setting up suspension! I fully plan to use and abuse his knowledge when I'm ready!!!!
Yes, i will certainly be creeping up on the setup, and only be adjusting one thing at a time!
I am very lucky in that I have a good friend that used to be a motorbike technician on newer jap bikes, plus he is into trials bikes, so knows a think or two about setting up suspension! I fully plan to use and abuse his knowledge when I'm ready!!!!
I have been thinking about Rohan's great advice, and have finally decided that maybe I should have some handlebars on my bike!!!
Although the bike will be Café Racer style, I decided to go for straight(ish) bars instead of clipons.
The idea being, you will be able to ride it for a little longer than a bike with clipons, because you won't have all of your weight on your wrists.
I also like the idea of being sat a little more upright from a safety standpoint.
I decided to go for these bars from LSL - they are made of thick walled aluminum, are anodized black and feel really nice.
Although the bike will be Café Racer style, I decided to go for straight(ish) bars instead of clipons.
The idea being, you will be able to ride it for a little longer than a bike with clipons, because you won't have all of your weight on your wrists.
I also like the idea of being sat a little more upright from a safety standpoint.
I decided to go for these bars from LSL - they are made of thick walled aluminum, are anodized black and feel really nice.
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The first thing to do was to mark up the bars for all the controls, then drill some holes.
I spent many hours deburring the holes inside and out, so that the cables won't snag or wear through.
...I swear to god, I am probably now a major shareholder in Dremel the number of miniature grinding stones I went through doing this - hopefully worth it though!
I spent many hours deburring the holes inside and out, so that the cables won't snag or wear through.
...I swear to god, I am probably now a major shareholder in Dremel the number of miniature grinding stones I went through doing this - hopefully worth it though!
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