Grant's Featherbed Special
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I am using external springs - these are 197mm Seeley springs (very short considering the standard ones are 231mm)
I got them from Andy at Molnar Precision http://www.manx.co.uk
Andy is a great source for stainless steel bits.
He makes things to a very high quality, and always ensures that he uses the correct materials!
I got them from Andy at Molnar Precision http://www.manx.co.uk
Andy is a great source for stainless steel bits.
He makes things to a very high quality, and always ensures that he uses the correct materials!
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Of course, the dampers would be from John at Lansdowne Engineering http://lansdowne-engineering.co.uk/
I really love what John has done for the world of Norton with these.
One side sets Compression characteristics, and the other side is adjustable for rebound characteristics.
Having felt a set of forks that ride on Lansdowne damper cartridges, this decision was an absolute no brainer.
John makes a few different types of cartridges - three different lengths (Commando, Dominator and Manx) and with the option of Internal and External springs.
These are the Manx ones, for an external spring.
I really love what John has done for the world of Norton with these.
One side sets Compression characteristics, and the other side is adjustable for rebound characteristics.
Having felt a set of forks that ride on Lansdowne damper cartridges, this decision was an absolute no brainer.
John makes a few different types of cartridges - three different lengths (Commando, Dominator and Manx) and with the option of Internal and External springs.
These are the Manx ones, for an external spring.
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When fitting the Lansdowne cartridges, it is important that they are pulled down, and engage well into the base of the slider.
This is a bit of a fiddly job, but the easiest way i found was to compress the fork using a ratchet strap, then pull the damper cartridge down into the hole by screwing in a long piece of studding.
This is a bit of a fiddly job, but the easiest way i found was to compress the fork using a ratchet strap, then pull the damper cartridge down into the hole by screwing in a long piece of studding.
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I got this stainless instrument bracket from Chris Knight Motorcycles http://www.chris-knight-mcs.co.uk/
It is a really nice, heavy gauge stainless piece, and i particularly like it because it puts the instruments close together.
I tried the Unity bracket initially, but it just wasn't the look that i wanted.
It is a really nice, heavy gauge stainless piece, and i particularly like it because it puts the instruments close together.
I tried the Unity bracket initially, but it just wasn't the look that i wanted.
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In a slight tweak to how it was intended, i wanted to sling the bracket under the top yoke.
This involved enlarging the holes so that the stanchions could pass through, and tapping out two small holes on the underside of the yoke to hold the bracket in place.
Maybe not to some people's liking, but I think this modification really makes the lines less cluttered.
My headlight will also be a little lower than standard, so this will also close up the gap, and keep everything balanced and in proportion.
This involved enlarging the holes so that the stanchions could pass through, and tapping out two small holes on the underside of the yoke to hold the bracket in place.
Maybe not to some people's liking, but I think this modification really makes the lines less cluttered.
My headlight will also be a little lower than standard, so this will also close up the gap, and keep everything balanced and in proportion.
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Now I could fit the front wheel.
This is a WM3 19" Excel shouldered rim with 8 gauge stainless spokes built by Buchanan's http://www.buchananspokes.com
These are THE ONLY people I trust to build wheels right!
The front tyre is a Bridgestone BT45 which is 100/90 in size
This is a WM3 19" Excel shouldered rim with 8 gauge stainless spokes built by Buchanan's http://www.buchananspokes.com
These are THE ONLY people I trust to build wheels right!
The front tyre is a Bridgestone BT45 which is 100/90 in size
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The front wheel will be sporting one of cNw's Brembo big brake kits
I toyed with the idea of a big twin (or even quad) leading shoe drum brake, and I know that when set up correctly they can be as good as or even better than a disc brake, but I just love the look of these so much!!!
I think it will be perfect for today's stop go traffic conditions!
I toyed with the idea of a big twin (or even quad) leading shoe drum brake, and I know that when set up correctly they can be as good as or even better than a disc brake, but I just love the look of these so much!!!
I think it will be perfect for today's stop go traffic conditions!
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I decided to go for a Harley-style headlight shell.
This is a 7" Concours Bullet headlight from Headwinds http://www.headwinds.com
It is spun from billet Aluminium, heavily chromed then polished to a mirror finish
This is a 7" Concours Bullet headlight from Headwinds http://www.headwinds.com
It is spun from billet Aluminium, heavily chromed then polished to a mirror finish
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My original plan was to go for a diamond cut tri-bar lens and reflector with a H4 quartz lamp.
However, that was when I was building an ES2 with a Magneto.
With the Commando engine, i am 100% reliant on the battery and charging system, so I will be using LED lighting throughout.
So I have gone for a JW Speaker LED unit http://www.jwspeaker.com
I got this from the guys at Mobile Centre https://www.mobilecentre.co.uk who were very intrigues about what I planned to use it for!!!
These are well made, low profile and give the best spread of light - they also have DOT and ECE approval.
I was very impressed with the quality of light in the demonstrations i saw, plus blown away by how little power they draw vs the amount of light they put out!
It looks a little Mad Max compared to the classic look of the tri-bar, but hopefully i'll get away with it!
I am certainly very pleased with the quality!
However, that was when I was building an ES2 with a Magneto.
With the Commando engine, i am 100% reliant on the battery and charging system, so I will be using LED lighting throughout.
So I have gone for a JW Speaker LED unit http://www.jwspeaker.com
I got this from the guys at Mobile Centre https://www.mobilecentre.co.uk who were very intrigues about what I planned to use it for!!!
These are well made, low profile and give the best spread of light - they also have DOT and ECE approval.
I was very impressed with the quality of light in the demonstrations i saw, plus blown away by how little power they draw vs the amount of light they put out!
It looks a little Mad Max compared to the classic look of the tri-bar, but hopefully i'll get away with it!
I am certainly very pleased with the quality!
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As I mentioned before, i planned from the outset to go for electronic instruments.
In my mind, there was no other choice but the Chronometric Smiths Gauges from Puca http://www.puca.co for this bike!
Whilst the Motogadget gauge is technically awesome - i wanted to nod in the general direction of British
Although they are assembled in the UK, my guess is the internals are mass produced in a big international factory somewhere.
In my mind, there was no other choice but the Chronometric Smiths Gauges from Puca http://www.puca.co for this bike!
Whilst the Motogadget gauge is technically awesome - i wanted to nod in the general direction of British
Although they are assembled in the UK, my guess is the internals are mass produced in a big international factory somewhere.
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