72 Combat Proddy Build

Re: 72 Combat Proddy Build- It begins...

72 Combat Proddy Build

Before

72 Combat Proddy Build

72 Combat Proddy Build

After

72 Combat Proddy Build

And rubber.

72 Combat Proddy Build

And I'm missing the ferrel here, I think.
 
Re: 72 Combat Proddy Build- It begins...

72 Combat Proddy Build

Took a little effort to get the chain on. FInally figured out to feed it from the back. Master link went on easy. Just slipped it into place and one pop with a screwdriver.

72 Combat Proddy Build



72 Combat Proddy Build

Next week I'll set the sprocket and start on the clutch/belt drive.

72 Combat Proddy Build

Stainless adjusters from Rocky Point.

72 Combat Proddy Build

Master cylinder cover
 
Re: 72 Combat Proddy Build- It begins...

72 Combat Proddy Build

Headlight clips on correctly or at least how LAB shows to do it...

72 Combat Proddy Build

The retaining plate is not working. I'm JB Weld-ing a nut on and hopefully that will do it. And no, the headlight shell wiring is not done, but I wanted to check out the new rim.

Thanks again to Brian for the headlight!
 
Re: 72 Combat Proddy Build- It begins...

It would probably be more difficult to make one but then there would be at least ONE part not bought straight from a catalogue Building a bike should be more than that imho
But then you are more handy than me on a pc...
 
Re: 72 Combat Proddy Build- It begins...

ludwig said:
SD , that plastic balance tube between the manifolds may cause you problems .
better use a reinforced tube there .
Click to expand...

How much vacuum is being pulled there? I just threw on a piece of Tygon for now, I don't know if it will collapse or not.

ludwig said:
Are there copper washers on the bolts that hold the rocker spindle plates ? If not , oil can leak past the threads .
Click to expand...

I don't even recall putting those on there. My brother may have and he ran the engine in another bike for a while, if they leak he would have noticed.
 
Re: 72 Combat Proddy Build- It begins...

72 Combat Proddy Build

Coil mount all painted. Did this a while ago but forgot to post pic.

72 Combat Proddy Build

Side cover bracket, brake line bracket painted.

72 Combat Proddy Build

72 Combat Proddy Build

The lower brake line is pretty filthy. While I could probably clean it a new one is about $15 and brakes aren't one area you want to get too cheap on.
 
Re: 72 Combat Proddy Build- It begins...

If the flares are good, seals up tight, and mates well to the exsisting fittings, it could be concidered reliable. I think these rarely fail and after being in place for so long they seem to belong there where a new one may need tweaking.
I rebuilt the caliper, added a Magura MC, a stainless braided brake line and kept the line in question just because it matched up and was never an issue in the past. There is no issue now either.

and if I may,
I believe you have the option but I really thing you should update the title of your topic. :idea: Any backers on this? 8)
 
pvisseriii said:
If the flares are good, seals up tight, and mates well to the exsisting fittings, it could be concidered reliable.
Click to expand...

It's pretty nasty inside. I might be able take a sandblaster to it but that'll take more effort than it's worth.

pvisseriii said:
and if I may,
I believe you have the option but I really thing you should update the title of your topic. :idea: Any backers on this? 8)
Click to expand...

Happy now?
 
swooshdave said:
pvisseriii said:
If the flares are good, seals up tight, and mates well to the exsisting fittings, it could be concidered reliable.
Click to expand...

It's pretty nasty inside. I might be able take a sandblaster to it but that'll take more effort than it's worth.

pvisseriii said:
and if I may,
I believe you have the option but I really thing you should update the title of your topic. :idea: Any backers on this? 8)
Click to expand...

Happy now?
Click to expand...
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :mrgreen:
 
72 Combat Proddy Build

Got the mufflers on Thursday. Had to test fit one at least that nite. :mrgreen:

Belt drive all buttoned up. That's here: RGM Belt Drive Install

72 Combat Proddy Build

Clutch is an easy one finger pull. I can't actually imagine a hydraulic one being easier.

Next up was the exhaust system. This is going to be a challenge. I don't have the "stock Production racer muffler mounts" and if I did it might be easier, but you know that's not how I roll.

72 Combat Proddy Build

The primary side has a huge gap but room for a stock muffler rubber mount.

72 Combat Proddy Build

On the other side I used a piece of cardboard to see what I mount might look like. There is absolutely no room for anything. I've heard that the headers aren't always, ahem, perfect. So I suspect I'll need to "lean" on them a bit. Any suggestions?

And lastly if you recall one of the first pictures from last year and one from today. A bit of an improvement if I do say so myself... and the kid is bigger too!

72 Combat Proddy Build

72 Combat Proddy Build
 
Don't tighten ANYTHING on the pipes until you have fit, re-fit, and re-re-fit them to mock up the brackets.

Remember that the closer you get your rubber mounts to arc properly with respect to the rear iso mount, the better job they'll do at keeping everything snug without premature cracking.

Once you have your "prototype 1" brackets made, fit everything up loosely and slowly nip them up from front to back, making sure you don't need to use any significant pushing force to hold them in the final position as you tighten. Snug, but don't overtighten the finned nuts.

If you have to push to align, they'll just work loose and return to thier "natural static" position in the first 10 minutes of running.
 
grandpaul said:
Remember that the closer you get your rubber mounts to arc properly with respect to the rear iso mount, the better job they'll do at keeping everything snug without premature cracking.
Click to expand...

I was actually entertaining the idea of making the mounts with a joint so that the mufflers could move more freely.
 
Funny story about the inner primary cover. Trust me, I wasn't laughing at the time.

I had some 1/4-20 stainless bolts for attaching the inner cover. I think a while back I mentioned that one of the helicoils came out. Well that got fixed, and when the guy that was helping me replace the helicoil I asked if those holes went into the crankcase and he said no.

I had then test fit the bolts and one of the bolts seemed too long. I shorted it to about 5/8-9/16 and it worked.

Back to the story... we (my dad is out from NC visiting) assemble the primary and belt drive and when I go to tighten the rotor on the crankshaft I notice that the engine won't turn fully. Something is hitting. I momentarily freak out. What on earth can be hitting the crankshaft? Well, you already know. The bolt holes DO go into the crankshaft and where blocking the crankshaft from rotating. I shortened the other two bolts and all was well. Disaster averted.
 
Typically disassembling a Norton engine without having drained the sump, you immediately find out that the holes go all the way through.
 
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