650 SS Dommi Racer build

Got a few more parts cleaned and re polished. rocker and timing covers were tarnished and needed to be redone while I was at it I got the gearbox cover finished as well.







Now that I have the gearbox cover off the bushes are in great shape but the old O-rings are shot. Il looking for sone leak proof Ideas, I cant see paying CNW to hog out the kicker / shifter holes on my freshly polished cover and press in a seal for $90.



I found this thread in the Commando section.
Re: Déjà vu all over again - Gearbox Oil Leak at Kick Start
http://www.accessnorton.com/deja-all-over-again-gearbox-oil-leak-kick-start-t8946.html

pvisseriii said:

Here is an old post of mine.

"Instead of replacing that worthless oring with another, here is a simple and effective solution.
You must still pop the cover off. Then heat the case around where the oring is with a propane torch or heat gun to pop out the kickshaft bushing.
You can buy this seal, Timkin #240731, seal number 9815 1.25 x 1 x .125 at your local oilseal dealer for around $6.00.
Lay the seal in there with a little locktite, pop the bushing in and you will be good to go and the cover will not be harmed."

Click to expand...

I purchased seals from my local bearing house, popped out the bushings, did a little counterboring, installed the seals from the inside along with some needle bearings, all for about $20. and looks factory.

bwolfie said:

I purchased seals from my local bearing house, popped out the bushings, did a little counterboring, installed the seals from the inside along with some needle bearings, all for about $20. and looks factory.

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What bearings did you use, and what did you do about the shifter seal?

I do want to keep the stock look but get better performance, the CNW job is not the way I want to go.

I'll have to look them up and get back to you.

bwolfie said:

I'll have to look them up and get back to you.

Click to expand...

That would be great, did you just use the stock O-ring on the shifter?

No, seals on both

Kicker bearing Torrington BH-168. I can't find the receipt with all the other part numbers. I went to my local bearing supply with the cover and shafts, they measured and has appropriate needle bearings and matching seals.

I got a wild hair up my but this morning and felt like doing some serious cutting and grinding on some metal. I was looking at my fork lowers and had to do some thing to clean them up!

Wahooooooooo!!!

Look what just arrived

One down one to go

Ray bans are a must when looking or working on that bike :mrgreen:

Jean

Jeandr said:

Ray bans are a must when looking or working on that bike :mrgreen:

Jean

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Jean, it makes taking pictures hard too thanks

I laced up the rear last night, I have to get new bearings before I can true them, Im going to check on 4203 2rs and 6203 2rs bearings at the local bearing shop,.......I got to keep them clean and sealed bearings should help. Im also checking on seals and roller bearings for the gearbox cover.

Things are coming together and Im liking it!!!!

Hi Greg loving the build

what method did you use on the timing cover and gearbox going to do mine over the weekend

thanks,

Tom

Tom Steele said:

Hi Greg loving the build

what method did you use on the timing cover and gearbox going to do mine over the weekend

thanks,

Tom

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Tom,

First I sand with a 6" DA using 220 grit, followed by 320grit, then I do a test on the 6" bench top buffer with Black rouge and a sisal pad. (this lets me know where the bad spots are)

Ill work them over with a file or die grinder with a 3m 120 grit roll lock and then a red roll lock pad then back to the DA with 220, 320 and 400grit. I buff again looking for more problem areas (repeat as needed)

The file and large DA pad will give you a smooth surface without waves, be careful not to get the DA up on edge with course paper or you will have a hell of a time getting the waves out.

I have a small Chicago Pneumatic 3" DA that allows me to get into small areas better (but you can use the DA sander) and sand all over with 400, 600 and 800grit. I follow up with a Spiral Sewn cotton pad on the buffer and brown rouge then a lose cotton pad with white polish.

Its not hard just messy. If you don't have a bench grinder or buffer you can sand with progressively finer wet/dry sand paper up to 1200grit and hand polish with mothers.

Good luck

sweet thanks Greg Ill give that a whirl

Thanks,

Tom

Its been a while so here is an update.
I sent he crank and connecting rods sent out for balancing with the case to have bearings pressed and have bolt tabs welded up. Back from the machine shop, FAG Superblend bearings pressed in, the case was decked and the tabs welded up the crank was balanced to %70. It all looked great until l installed the pistons and found the wrist pins .020 larger than the stock ones and they were too tight to move freely on the rods so the rods, so I had to tear it all back down and have the rods machined and re balanced.



I never noticed the difference in the pistons I guess it was tuff getting past the big dome top and valve indents of the Hap Jones 10:1 Pistons. The new high compression pistons were for a shorter stroke 600 and didn't have a relief in the skirt for crank clearance. ARGH.... Pull the cylinder and send the pistons out to the machine shop.



It all spins nicely but I'm waiting on a custom .050 copper head gasket before its finished.

I could not find a Lyta short circut tank anywhere in stock and it would be at least 6 weeks before one could be had the Tank shop has a 40 week back log :shock: I was lucky to get both Tanks in from RGM and I love them,
Trees went out for Powder Coating and the front end assembled with longer bushes, rods and with progressive springs. Here is what she looks like so far.



OGaDamn that thing is huge and will take a lot of work getting it nice and shinney.

Caferider said:

The new high compression pistons were for a stroker and didn't have a relief in the skirt for crank clearance.

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Really? If an engine has a stroker crank, the long stroke would pull the piston down further in the bore at BDC and it would need even more skirt clearance than a stock piston. 68mm pistons without clearanced skirts are ones made for Domi 99s, did not need it with their shorter stroke and smaller flywheel. Late model 99 pistons all had domes on them. They needed a dome because packing less swept volume into the same combustion Chamber as the 650 without a dome would give them too low a compression.

The HAP Jones pistons will give lower compression than stock 600 pistons in every application because they were too cheap to make right and left handed pistons with only two valve reliefs like the factory pistons. Also the extra machined pockets make more sharp edges that will mess with flame travel and could turn into glow-plugs causing pre-ignition.

It was a standard hot-rod trick to put 600 pistons in the 650 to raise compression after profiling the skirts to clear the flywheel. Not something that has to be done in a machine shop though, you could have traced the profile of the old 650 pistons on them and gone to work with a grinder and files and scotchbrite. The skirts can even be made considerably shorter than stock to lighten them up more.

I have photos of Norton Domi pistons with some information on them here:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 123&type=3

I guess the next time you will mock the engine up to see if the parts actually fit together before you have it balanced etc.. Maybe next you will put a big cam and valves in it, have the valves hit the pistons and have to tear it down again, have the pistons machined again, and the reciprocating assembly balanced again.....

Is that piston on the right for a Four Valve Dominator ??

Like the Redish colour . Had a catalouge once , 650 / 750 . That colour so the tank matched the catalouge .

Dedundant comment about 4 valve pistons = not.

Interesting Hap Jones versions. Not seen those before.

Beng, I Stand corrected I should have said a short stroke. Ben is absolutely right they are an old pair of Hap Jones 68mm 600 / 650 Dominator pistons +.02 at least that is what it said on the side of the box well, on of them the other label had some old cellophane tape on it and had yellowed so bad you couldn't see through it. I dont think "too cheap to make right and left handed pistons" is fair, why not make a piston that works on either side?

After all is said and done even with the extra machining Im still happy with the old hap Jones Piston and I'm still ahead of a what new set of 650 pistons from italy would cost.