1973 Norton Commando Restoration

Well I got all the wiring torn out today. I did my best to label every wire I unhooked and took lots of pictures and notes, so hopefully it will be an easy re-installation. I've had a look at the wiring harnesses from British Wiring and they look handy, although this harness seems in decent shape if I just tidy it up a little bit.

Regarding engine and transmission rebuild, I've got a set of whitworth wrenches and sockets, what other specialty tools would I need to complete the job?
You will need a grinder to grind down your spanners if you are going to lift the head
Also 3/8 drive whitworth sockets
 
I figured I could complete it myself for about $7-8000
Your estimate sounds more than reasonable to me mainly because I can only rebuild a bike
But a restoration to as it left the factory is a different matter , most estimates can be doubled easily
It's best to keep receipts separately don't ever add them together!!
 
You will need a grinder to grind down your spanners if you are going to lift the head
Also 3/8 drive whitworth sockets

I do have set of whitworth spanners, so they shouldn't need to be ground down, correct?

Norton Commando Rear Brake Pedal Safety Spring (Pre-MK3)
https://www.classicbritishspares.com/products/norton-brake-saftey-spring

Yes, I have seen these clutch tools, I will get on ordering one. My bike is already fitted with the rear brake spring.

Your estimate sounds more than reasonable to me mainly because I can only rebuild a bike
But a restoration to as it left the factory is a different matter , most estimates can be doubled easily
It's best to keep receipts separately don't ever add them together!!

While this is my first rebuild, I hope to do the best job I can. It may not be the same as it rolled off the showroom floor, and definitely wont be as beautiful as some of the bikes I've seen on this site and other places online.
 
ya know, i ended up getting a 74 as a first bike back in 77 & that's one thing ..but

fast forward to now & someone going for a norton today as a first bike ..well

amazing! particularly with hawg buds..
 
The reason you may have to grind your spanners (on the outside) is because often they are too bulky to fit the cylinder head holding down bolts
Same with the sockets
3/8 drive will fit where 1/2" drive won't
 
The reason you may have to grind your spanners (on the outside) is because often they are too bulky to fit the cylinder head holding down bolts
Same with the sockets
3/8 drive will fit where 1/2" drive won't

Okay gotcha.
 
I'm going over the main harness and wiring diagrams. When I took it off the bike, I had two branches off the main harness that were plugged into nothing. I would like to eliminate them if possible. They both have two leads each with white/brown, which appears to lead to the warning light assimilator, and black/white, which I cant seem to find where they lead to. I don't recall anything not working when when the bike was running, other than the ampmeter on the headlight bezel, and the green warning light. The red one works fine. Anyone got any ideas?
 
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The shop book indicates a number of specialized tools. My Haynes manual typically shows alternative homemade tools in a number of situations. The clutch compressor can be easily made from a large diameter ABS water pipe cap and long bolt with nuts and washers. I used a steering wheel puller off shelf of local auto parts shop to remove the primary drive gear. The rocker spindle puller can be made from a length of alu pipe or even a tubular spark plug wrench pipe with threader rod, nuts, washers.
The exhaust lock rings do need a proper wrench else you risk damaging the fins. Good to check these often and when hot as they will destroy the thread in head if working loose.
Consider electronic ignition to replace points, condensors. Seriously consider upgrading front master cylinder (Re sleeving is possible...see Madass140 on this site for his kit) to a 1/2" or 13mm bore size...major improvement to braking.
 
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When I took it off the bike, I had two branches off the main harness that were plugged into nothing. I would like to eliminate them if possible.
...
Anyone got any ideas?

There are a few unused terminals in the MKII wiring harness...likely for the future e start models coming down the pipe. Also. The different models of same year had different fitment, like the Interpol police version using dual horns with relays and blue flashing lights. Further, some circuit differences between different country codes...Canadian bikes had changes to headlight switch controls. See fine print on schematic, notes. Careful review of schematic should clarify these unused terminals. Note handle bar switch gear has one unused button and this does have wiring connected uo...just nothing on far end. Was to become eStart button I believe.
One tip, the stock switch gear has turn signals on right hand...I found it quite difficult to operate turns while managing throttle. So I migrated that switch assembly to left side and put the left one on right. Fully interchangeable. Much nicer riding experience IMHO.
 
Get the Mick Hemmings heavy weight Twin engine rebuild and gearbox rebuild DVDs. A bit pricey but they will save you money in the long run if you are doing your own engine and gearbox. I'm on my third Commando rebuild and they have saved me many times over. I have a little portable DVD player on my work bench. Mick does a step, I hit pause and do the same thing.
http://bracebridge-street.com/tech.htm
 
Get the Mick Hemmings heavy weight Twin engine rebuild and gearbox rebuild DVDs. A bit pricey but they will save you money in the long run if you are doing your own engine and gearbox. I'm on my third Commando rebuild and they have saved me many times over. I have a little portable DVD player on my work bench. Mick does a step, I hit pause and do the same thing.
http://bracebridge-street.com/tech.htm

Do you happen to know if there is an option to pay be credit card or PayPal? Seems old school having to mail them a cheque/money order these days.
 
Looks like it has good bones.
A couple of things.
850’s have steel tanks.
73 850 had silver barrels. Most people have painted them black.
That is a 73 seat.
The horn goes way down under the swing arm where no one can hear it.
 
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