1961 BSA Super Rocket Rebuild
- Thread starter Jerry Doe
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Jerry Doe
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Nice!
Jerry Doe
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I have not got my Haynes workshop manual yet. I need to remove the cam timing pinion and the magneto timing gear. How can I remove these? Best way.
Does anyone know the size of the nut holding the cam pinion and the oil pump drive worm gear nut?
thanks
Does anyone know the size of the nut holding the cam pinion and the oil pump drive worm gear nut?
thanks
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Jerry Doe
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Would love to see more photos. It’s a beautiful BSA.
Tank is from a 67. It’s going to work out perfectly. My goal is to build a bike to ride that looks great. Will pay as much detail to originality when makes sense. Picking up the tank tomorrow. Stay tuned...
Do you know what socket size the camshaft nut is? My whitworth is not fitting quite right.
cheers
Here's a link to a Super Rocket page, lots of photos and model year info here.
And here is a link to the A7A10 forum, an excellent source of technical information and general advice on these bikes.
My knowledge is pretty limited as my Super Rocket came to me in running and 90% restored condition. The power unit, trans and primary had all been professionally rebuilt with lots of new parts used.
I've replaced some cosmetic items and added the 2 leading shoe brake. Also replaced the rear brake, added new Leighton seat, new monobloc carb, 12volt charging system, Siamese exhaust and repaired the magneto with a Brightspark Easycap.
But as far as internal engine or trans work, I've been lucky as that was all in great shape already, no need to mess with it.
So I'm of little or no help there.
Glen
My knowledge is pretty limited as my Super Rocket came to me in running and 90% restored condition. The power unit, trans and primary had all been professionally rebuilt with lots of new parts used.
I've replaced some cosmetic items and added the 2 leading shoe brake. Also replaced the rear brake, added new Leighton seat, new monobloc carb, 12volt charging system, Siamese exhaust and repaired the magneto with a Brightspark Easycap.
But as far as internal engine or trans work, I've been lucky as that was all in great shape already, no need to mess with it.
So I'm of little or no help there.
Glen
Jerry Doe
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Thanks Glen. Yes been looking at the A10 forum
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My 61 SR looks like this
grandpaul
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Of course www.britbike.com has some of the best BSA heads on earth...
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Wish I had the time to work on mine.
Bought my first 60 GF ( before my combat) $40 from my USAF boss. It was crashed but had perfect big tank worth hundreds. Bought second basket case to make one complete bike. 61 Golden Flash, was runner but it need a bit of maintenance. Bad magneto (capacitor) side lined it until I learned how to rebuild mags which I did when I also rebuilt my 63 atlas magneto.
62 RGS GA10 152x (kit), 190mm brake-dunlop alloy rims-
63 SR assembled basket case.
25% of my office is full of A-10 stuff LOL.
Took over 10 years to find a correct "long" rear Golden Flash fender.
Most put the shorty SR fender or bob the original making the long ones now unobtanium.....
Did a quill oil feed needle/ball crank on my spare hot rod dual carb head SR engine.
Had a bunch of A65 and got rid of them all and stuck with the A-10's...not fast but a much better ride...
BSAOCNE vice president (rib master)
http://www.britishmcmeet.com/britishmeet/index.html
This would have been our 42nd year: coovid canceled
Bought my first 60 GF ( before my combat) $40 from my USAF boss. It was crashed but had perfect big tank worth hundreds. Bought second basket case to make one complete bike. 61 Golden Flash, was runner but it need a bit of maintenance. Bad magneto (capacitor) side lined it until I learned how to rebuild mags which I did when I also rebuilt my 63 atlas magneto.
62 RGS GA10 152x (kit), 190mm brake-dunlop alloy rims-
63 SR assembled basket case.
25% of my office is full of A-10 stuff LOL.
Took over 10 years to find a correct "long" rear Golden Flash fender.
Most put the shorty SR fender or bob the original making the long ones now unobtanium.....
Did a quill oil feed needle/ball crank on my spare hot rod dual carb head SR engine.
Had a bunch of A65 and got rid of them all and stuck with the A-10's...not fast but a much better ride...
BSAOCNE vice president (rib master)
http://www.britishmcmeet.com/britishmeet/index.html
This would have been our 42nd year: coovid canceled
MikeG
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I may be very mistaken but I think the fuel taps on an A10 tank are much closer to the seat end than the one you have. I have both a 2 1/2 and a 4 gallon tank that I know to be A10 and the taps are at the very end. The smaller tank has the round badges and the larger the pear shaped.
FWIW
FWIW
Jerry Doe
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Things are going quite well so far with initial findings. I know it’s going to take a while and cost a lot. It’s hard to find some parts. Nearly all nuts and bolts are missing. I have a new thread gauge coming and will have to work out what to order. The frame was powder coated so I used some 3m paste and it came out well. The swinging arm was powder coated,I have ordered a new swinging arm spindle, bushes and nut. I also ordered some rear shocks. The yokes were already powder coated, I have ordered new fork stanchions and bushes with seals, progressive springs and seal covers.
Took the timing side apart. Lots of black on the insides of the cases. Took head off and it looks ok. Found the right piston stamped 80. I am thinking that means it’s been bored to 80 over, see pics below. That piston is very loose in the bore.
A few of the push rods are bent, so not sure what to expect as I dig in deeper,
I have to try and stop spending money for a little while. One thing I really need is the SRM fork damping rods, but they seem to be out of stock.
Took the timing side apart. Lots of black on the insides of the cases. Took head off and it looks ok. Found the right piston stamped 80. I am thinking that means it’s been bored to 80 over, see pics below. That piston is very loose in the bore.
A few of the push rods are bent, so not sure what to expect as I dig in deeper,
I have to try and stop spending money for a little while. One thing I really need is the SRM fork damping rods, but they seem to be out of stock.
Jerry Doe
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I tried for an hour or so to remove the left hand stanchion from the fork leg/slider. Someone before me put the fork leg in a vice. It has a dent in it and the lower bush won’t pass by it, so it’s trashed. I already have new stanchions on the way. I searched for hours for an A10 L/H leg. The super rocket are different from earlier A10s. I finally found a good used one at Baxters for a few hundred bucks.
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