Ball hone recommendation?

[Carl H]

Never run without an air filter, no.

Thinking about options....Anyone know a Boston area mechanic they'd trust to test and if necessary repair?

FWIW I've never smelled the slightest trace of burning oil, and it doesn't lose any appreciable amount between oil changes (although I change fairly frequently)

I use Motor Tech in New Bedford, They do lots of MC work and do lots of work for big name dealers/ shops in Mass. I would bring them the head and the cylinders and see what they think needs to be done. Lots of time the head needs to be done over. They are fast and reasonable.

 

[BrianK]

Compression post rebuild last time (not recent) was 170L, 155R - hot engine, WOT.

The head is already with Leo Goff; the block is going to join it.

Thanks all - B

 

[Schwany]

Compression post rebuild last time (not recent) was 170L, 155R - hot engine, WOT.

The head is already with Leo Goff; the block is going to join it.

Thanks all - B

Hopefully you were relatively nice to the engine before pulling the lid off and all it will need is a hone by Leo with the right tool for the job. Otherwise warm up your wallet for a bore and some +.040 pistons. Me I'd get the barrels bored over if Leo says it's close to the end of the +.020 spec. More displacement is usually better even if it is a small amount.

I've done the deglazing by hand with emery cloth. It did work, but took 1600 miles for the rings to break in. It was before the internet, so I didn't know I was supposed to worry about it. lol

Ball hones are very messy and don't make bores that are out of round round holes again. You did the right thing.

 

[BrianK]

Thanks all.

What Leo recommends, is exactly what I am going to do!

 

[Shelby-Right]

Last time I re-ringed the Norton (73 850) I used 320 grit sandpaper to achieve what looked to my lay eyes to be a serviceable cross-hatch. Not that many miles later and I'm doing the whole top end including pistons and rings, and the crosshatch appears to be completely gone.

Thinking of using a ball hone chucked into a hand drill this time. Last time I got queasy about that but willing to give it a shot this time.

Words of wisdom from folks about general advisability, size/grit/brand to use, and/or any other tips?

Tx - BK

I just rebuilt and reassembled a hyundai G4NC 2.0 ix35 engine, I ball honed it with a aliexpress 240 ball hone, the oil rings were tiny like about 2mm wide , I would have preferred a finer hone, but I don't work as an automachinist any more, so all that gear isn't available. it is going great no problems. Settled in no issues, I used some penrite running in oil. Cheers

 

[robertv]

My original std bores had, at 7500 miles become an even .001 over stock as measured by a knowledgeable Norton competent friend. 850 with 7500 miles. I bought new std pistons hepolite, and used 10 thou over rings. I cut them to a 16 thou gap. For a while my compression was below 100 psi.
After 500 miles I decided to run the engine at higher rpm instead of baby ing it. Jumped up to 125 per side. And seems to be increasing.
No knock. No oil smoke. Ever. And ever harder to kick over Just my experience.

 

[robertv]

My original std bores had, at 7500 miles become an even .001 over stock as measured by a knowledgeable Norton competent friend. 850 with 7500 miles. I bought new std pistons hepolite, and used 10 thou over rings. I cut them to a 16 thou gap. For a while my compression was below 100 psi.
After 500 miles I decided to run the engine at higher rpm instead of baby ing it. Jumped up to 125 per side. And seems to be increasing.
No knock. No oil smoke. Ever. And ever harder to kick over Just my experience.

I used a VW ball hone for an 85.5 piston. I mixed oil and laquer thinner to hone and then a more coarse wet and dry paper to cut cross hatching.