Stripped spark plug hole

+ TIME-SERT® SPARK PLUG THREAD REPAIR KITS + spark plug stripped thread repair kits for spark plug problems, thread stripped spark plug repairs in damaged threads in spark plug hole stripped out approved thread repair, aluminum head spark plug repair

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I used a helicoil solid type insert, not the coil wire type. The Helicoil solid insert came out with the plug the first time I took it out. I replaced with a Timesert. I highly recommend a Timesert. They are a bit more expensive but have a superior locking design compared to the Helicoil solid type and it's generic cousins that the autoparts stores carry. You can do it with the head in place. Make sure the valves are closed. Pack the flutes with grease to remove most of the cuttings. Tape a small hose inside a shop vac hose and remove what is left.

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stripped out threads, damaged threads, blown out sparkplugs, stripped thread, stripped out theads, helicoils, ford sparkplug repair, repair ford sparkplugs blew out with time-sert, thread repair problems, spark plug ford blown, blew out ford sparkplug, stripped theads, threads stripped out...
www.timesert.com
 
Torontonian said:
How to proceed ? I'm off the road . Need a D.I.Y . kit , preferably , or pull head and into a shop ?
Click to expand...
Generally, if you grease a tap, remove it often, clean and re-grease, you can tap a hole catching the cut metal. If you do it with the exhaust valve fully open, you can skip the grease and blow the cylinder out thoroughly, but I prefer the grease method.

Today, I would avoid Helicoils for spark plugs as solid inserts seem better as long as you have the room.

Of course, removing the head is time-consuming but not that hard and if you have a good machine shop around, it might be a better choice.
 
Just my personal experience but the plug in my Timesert insert seemed to have a little more color perhaps indicating it was running a little cooler than the non insert plug. No idea why but the left hand plugs seemed to always run a little hotter indicated by color.
 
What G Marsh suggested, pull the head and take it to a machine shop.
I've seen so many plug repair inserts fail on everything from a 2 cycle kart engine to a V-12 deep in the hull.
Pulling the head on a Norton is not a big deal if one is methodical about it.
 
Lineslinger said:
What G Marsh suggested, pull the head and take it to a machine shop.
I've seen so many plug repair inserts fail on everything from a 2 cycle kart engine to a V-12 deep in the hull.
Pulling the head on a Norton is not a big deal if one is methodical about it.
Click to expand...
What would a machinist do different to repair a badly cross threaded spark plug hole? Weld in
new material and retap the hole to original $$$? I have had great success fixing that problem with a
TimeSert kit.
 
I guess I misread where the OP made note of how bad the plug hole is damaged nor did I read it was badly cross threaded.
I went to the machine shop first for all the obvious reasons, experience, tools and guidance.
They had it, I didn't.
And I had never made the repair before. Most of those guys love to teach their craft.
The OP asked for input, that's mine.

From my perspective it makes sense to have the guidance of someone who performs such work for their livelihood and has done it a few hundred times.
If one is prone to stripping out plug holes on various heads learning the right way to make the repair is invaluable.
I figured that out early on blowing up go kart engines.
 
lazyeye6 said:
What would a machinist do different to repair a badly cross threaded spark plug hole? Weld in
new material and retap the hole to original $$$? I have had great success fixing that problem with a
TimeSert kit.
Click to expand...
As long as you can drill straight, without wobble, at the right angle, and stop at the right point then DIY is fine. Drill too deep and you will likely hit a valve seat especially if you get the angle slightly wrong. The intake seats are close to the hole and exhaust seats are not much further away. The hole required for a timeset is a good bit bigger than the sparkplug hole.

A good machinist doing the work on a mill is unlikely to make the mistake.
 
ludwig said:
The plug is 'cooled' through the aluminium in the cyl. head.
A brass insert wouldn't be a problem, but a stainless helicoil would.
Stainless steel is a poor heat conductor.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that!
One for the memory banks (what's left of them anyway)
 
ludwig said:
The plug is 'cooled' through the aluminium in the cyl. head.
A brass insert wouldn't be a problem, but a stainless helicoil would.
Stainless steel is a poor heat conductor.
Click to expand...
Ron Wood used bronze spark plug thread inserts in at least some of his race heads, presumably for the heat transfer reasoning.

This is a picture of one of Ron's short stroke 750 heads that I bought from him way back when. You can just barely see the insert color difference. It's a pretty thin insert.

Ron Wood 4 1200.jpg


This is a view from the other side. It doesn't show much detail, but you can see the edge of the insert.

Stripped spark plug hole


Ken
 

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