Airhead side luggage fit .

[Torontonian]

Have / 5 / 6 / 7 BMW airhead hard bags ( 2 of ) , with small luggage rack ( Matching for the 2 luggage , but it's BMW early airhead . ) . Another long rack also supports a Hepco /Becker top box on rear .
Has anyone tried to fit these to a commando frame ?
The 2 hard bags would be priority .

 

[o0norton0o]

I modified Givi hard bags to fit my commando. I bought the frames for a different bike, then bought some generic metal tubing the same size as the Givi frame tubes. I went to my welder friend's house with the bags, the frames, and the tubing. We cut the existing arms off leaving just the mounting hoop. I held the bags attached to the hoop up where I wanted them and my welder friend put the new arms where they needed to be... from the mount point I specified and the mounting hoop. He's really good and it came out pretty nice.

It's a leap of faith to do this kind of thing because the first thing you do is ruin the frame by cutting the arms off it, so you are committed at that point. If it doesn't work out for some reason then you have bags and no working frame.

Here's my progression:

Frames with original arms for some unknown model motorcycle

Here's the destruction part where I cut the arms off the mounting hoop

here's the bike with just the frames and the bags not mounted. The frames are painted black to be a little more invisible to blend in with the bike frame. It doesn't look too terrible...

and here's the mounted hard bags on the bike.

The point of going to all this trouble is to have lockable, waterproof, quick disconnect, hard bags. I'm not going to wear a backpack when I ride. I didn't want saddlebags either... I'm just picky that way. If I sport ride, I unclip them and go. If I go somewhere and need to carry some stuff I clip them on.. I don't know if the BMW bags will work or look good, but you should hold them up and see if the lines look ok... then do what you have to do to make it work if you deem it doable...

 

[Torontonian]

I modified Givi hard bags to fit my commando. I bought the frames for a different bike, then bought some generic metal tubing the same size as the Givi frame tubes. I went to my welder friend's house with the bags, the frames, and the tubing. We cut the existing arms off leaving just the mounting hoop. I held the bags attached to the hoop up where I wanted them and my welder friend put the new arms where they needed to be... from the mount point I specified and the mounting hoop. He's really good and it came out pretty nice.

It's a leap of faith to do this kind of thing because the first thing you do is ruin the frame by cutting the arms off it, so you are committed at that point. If it doesn't work out for some reason then you have bags and no working frame.

Here's my progression:

Frames with original arms for some unknown model motorcycle

View attachment 116956

Here's the destruction part where I cut the arms off the mounting hoop

View attachment 116957

here's the bike with just the frames and the bags not mounted. The frames are painted black to be a little more invisible to blend in with the bike frame. It doesn't look too terrible...

View attachment 116959

and here's the mounted hard bags on the bike.

View attachment 116960

The point of going to all this trouble is to have lockable, waterproof, quick disconnect, hard bags. I'm not going to wear a backpack when I ride. I didn't want saddlebags either... I'm just picky that way. If I sport ride, I unclip them and go. If I go somewhere and need to carry some stuff I clip them on.. I don't know if the BMW bags will work or look good, but you should hold them up and see if the lines look ok... then do what you have to do to make it work if you deem it doable...

Thank you .

 

[nortonmargie]

I have an Airhead back rack on my Mark III. There originally were matching bags, but I never used them and sold them to someone. I have waterproof bags that I clip on when I am going out of town on either Norton or my modern Triumph. They are light and fit both bikes.

 

[YING]

I modified Givi hard bags to fit my commando. I bought the frames for a different bike, then bought some generic metal tubing the same size as the Givi frame tubes. I went to my welder friend's house with the bags, the frames, and the tubing. We cut the existing arms off leaving just the mounting hoop. I held the bags attached to the hoop up where I wanted them and my welder friend put the new arms where they needed to be... from the mount point I specified and the mounting hoop. He's really good and it came out pretty nice.

It's a leap of faith to do this kind of thing because the first thing you do is ruin the frame by cutting the arms off it, so you are committed at that point. If it doesn't work out for some reason then you have bags and no working frame.

Here's my progression:

Frames with original arms for some unknown model motorcycle

View attachment 116956

Here's the destruction part where I cut the arms off the mounting hoop

View attachment 116957

here's the bike with just the frames and the bags not mounted. The frames are painted black to be a little more invisible to blend in with the bike frame. It doesn't look too terrible...

View attachment 116959

and here's the mounted hard bags on the bike.

View attachment 116960

The point of going to all this trouble is to have lockable, waterproof, quick disconnect, hard bags. I'm not going to wear a backpack when I ride. I didn't want saddlebags either... I'm just picky that way. If I sport ride, I unclip them and go. If I go somewhere and need to carry some stuff I clip them on.. I don't know if the BMW bags will work or look good, but you should hold them up and see if the lines look ok... then do what you have to do to make it work if you deem it doable...

They look great. The hard part for me would be to find a “welder friend”
Mike

 

[Interbak]

I use a single Krauser bag on the Interbak, S model high pipes on the left. Many years ago I did use the whole setup, with the matching top box. You would want to use proper Interstate exhausts, upswept peashooters will melt the bottom of the bags.

 

[franko]

Luggage from Andover Norton

Andover Norton - HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE TOP BOX 40 LITRE -These luggage racks will not take the old

HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE TOP BOX 40 LITRE -These luggage racks will not take the old

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - LUGGAGE FRAME CHROME (ALL COMMANDOS) - 06.7324

LUGGAGE FRAME CHROME (ALL COMMANDOS)

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE PANNIERS 30 LITRE (PAIR) - 06.7272

HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE PANNIERS 30 LITRE (PAIR)

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE PANNIERS 40 LITRE (PAIR) - 06.7273

HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE PANNIERS 40 LITRE (PAIR)

andover-norton.co.uk

 

[Torontonian]

I use a single Krauser bag on the Interbak, S model high pipes on the left. Many years ago I did use the whole setup, with the matching top box. You would want to use proper Interstate exhausts, upswept peashooters will melt the bottom of the bags.View attachment 116968

Today I gave it all free , to my neighbour , Afo , he builds bicycles and e-bikes . He got the touring seat , the 2 panier luggage , the top box and rack for it . I'll explore the next post now . Enjoy .

 

[Torontonian]

Luggage from Andover Norton

Andover Norton - HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE TOP BOX 40 LITRE -These luggage racks will not take the old

HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE TOP BOX 40 LITRE -These luggage racks will not take the old

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - LUGGAGE FRAME CHROME (ALL COMMANDOS) - 06.7324

LUGGAGE FRAME CHROME (ALL COMMANDOS)

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE PANNIERS 30 LITRE (PAIR) - 06.7272

HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE PANNIERS 30 LITRE (PAIR)

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE PANNIERS 40 LITRE (PAIR) - 06.7273

HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE PANNIERS 40 LITRE (PAIR)

andover-norton.co.uk

Thank you Franko , had no idea Andover supplied everything I need . I will order in the first 3 items , rack , 2 paniers , top box . Shipping such huge items from England I will look into , but it$ gonna be big .

 

[cliffa]

Thank you Franko , had no idea Andover supplied everything I need . I will order in the first 3 items , rack , 2 paniers , top box . Shipping such huge items from England I will look into , but it$ gonna be big .

AN recently sent an email update out stating that they have new lower shipping prices, so it may be worth enquiring.

 

[o0norton0o]

Luggage from Andover Norton

Andover Norton - HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE TOP BOX 40 LITRE -These luggage racks will not take the old

HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE TOP BOX 40 LITRE -These luggage racks will not take the old

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - LUGGAGE FRAME CHROME (ALL COMMANDOS) - 06.7324

LUGGAGE FRAME CHROME (ALL COMMANDOS)

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE PANNIERS 30 LITRE (PAIR) - 06.7272

HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE PANNIERS 30 LITRE (PAIR)

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE PANNIERS 40 LITRE (PAIR) - 06.7273

HEPCO & BECKER LUGGAGE PANNIERS 40 LITRE (PAIR)

andover-norton.co.uk

My Givi's are 35 liter bags. From the side they look proportionate and I held them as far in as I could to tighten them up to the bike for looks and to lessen the drag in the wind. The 35 liter bags definately stick out to the sides a bit. I thought about seeing if they made a 20 liter set to fit my frame so I could also have a smaller set of bags.

I see the AN bags give you a choice of 30L or 40L. My 35L bags do not fit a full face helmet inside them. Maybe that's why AN offers both sizes . Maybe it's the shape of my bags that make a full face helmet not fit.. Anyway, my point was to show you how much my 35's stick out and make you wonder which size bags you should chose...

I actually raised my bags up 1-1/2" from when this picture was taken but you can see they stick out a bit..

 

[Mart UK]

I have that AN set up. It works very well. I remove the frame when not in use. Made easier by reversing the direction of the bottom front bolts. These bolts are a pig to remove. If you reverse them, only the nuts need to come off to remove the frame.

 

[johnm]

I have that AN set up. It works very well. I remove the frame when not in use. Made easier by reversing the direction of the bottom front bolts. These bolts are a pig to remove. If you reverse them, only the nuts need to come off to remove the frame.

Interesting.

I bought the AN set up three weeks ago and am right in the middle of fitting it to my 74 Mk2 Roadster.

I have to say I'm finding it a right battle. Basically the three main holes. One at the top shock mount and the two down on the Z plate down below the pillion mount do not line up. I'm having to use G clamps and pieces of wood to lever the luggage frame to line up. Yes I have left the bolts loose.

Offering the luggage frame up to the bike found one set of holes out by 15 mm on one side and about 10 mm on the other.

I'm very sure the bike frame is OK. The shock holes can't really move and the lower holes are in the Z plate which is mounted to the bike frame by three bolts. Plus this frame was fully stripped 6 years ago and lazer checked on a jig against the F4 diagram in the Workshop manual. I have had this bike 47 years and it's as straight as a very good engineer can get it.

The kit does not have instructions. Just a list of parts in German but I have watched the Andover videos.

Another shortcoming is that longer bolts for the bottom mounts are not supplied. The video recommends leaving the washers out if necessary. Which is a bit micky mouse engineering.

The welding of the tube to the bottom plate would also be better moved outward about 4 mm so it better clears the muffler rubber mount bolt. The bottom plate could also be trimmed slightly so it also better clears the muffler mount plate.

I'm going to put a couple of stainless fender washers between the z plate mount and the frame plate to move the tube out a mm or two. I will need to buy 1 1/2 " or 1 5/8" long 3/8 UNF bolts to do this.

I read that Andover sent a range of models to the frame manufacturer to get everything right. I can only imagine the jig has perhaps moved a bit over the years or maybe the chroming process is stress releiving and twisting the frame perhaps???

Anyway it certainly hasn't proved fit and forget for me and I can definitely see some areas for improvement.

 

[johnm]

Minimal clearance in there. At best 1mm. This is an area you definitely do not want touching because one side is the exhaust system and the other the z plate hard mounted to the frame. Ie you would be bridging the whole isolastc system.

 

[johnm]

The suggestion is to trim the piece marked red in first photo

And extend bracket marked red in second photo

I could do this but then the chrome is gone.

 

[jan nelder]

and the original Z plates, I believe, should be mounted to frame with different length spacers so that they splay out at the rear, which may or may not be the case 50 years later.

 

[Mart UK]

As I recall, mine was pretty much straight on and off, reasonable fit both sides. Might be worth checking everything attached to your bike's frame has the correct spacers / mountings, before hacking the luggage frame?

 

[johnm]

As I recall, mine was pretty much straight on and off, reasonable fit both sides. Might be worth checking everything attached to your bike's frame has the correct spacers / mountings, before hacking the luggage frame?

Pretty sure it's correct. Been there 46 years in my ownership.

The z plates would have to move up and forward to align. Ie you would need to redrill the holes in the frame (or the holes in the Z plates) . The frame should be correct because it was checked on a jig against the factory workshop manual measurement. The spacers on the z plates would move them in and out which is not the issue.

The guys who checked the frame were the guys that made this. They are above average engineers. Have also ridden Commandos for 50 years

Engrich Motorcycle – Crafted Luxury

www.engrichmotorcycle.nz

When did you buy yours? Based on earlier reviews they have worked for others. I'm just wondering if the welding jig or methodology has changed recently.

 

[johnm]

and the original Z plates, I believe, should be mounted to frame with different length spacers so that they splay out at the rear, which may or may not be the case 50 years later.

The spacer on the isolastic stud #7 in the parts diagram (06.0472) is a different length from the other two spacers #4 in the parts diagram (06.0471). I have them in the right place. Sorry but a bit hard to photograph.

 

[Mart UK]

Pretty sure it's correct. Been there 46 years in my ownership.

The z plates would have to move up and forward to align. Ie you would need to redrill the holes in the frame (or the holes in the Z plates) . The frame should be correct because it was checked on a jig against the factory workshop manual measurement. The spacers on the z plates would move them in and out which is not the issue.

The guys who checked the frame were the guys that made this. They are above average engineers. Have also ridden Commandos for 50 years

Engrich Motorcycle – Crafted Luxury

www.engrichmotorcycle.nz

When did you buy yours? Based on earlier reviews they have worked for others. I'm just wondering if the welding jig or methodology has changed recently.

Bought it around 2 years ago, maybe 3.