I would like to add that suspension is like Horsepower,... You can't make one change and get a dramatic increase in performance. The most dramatic increases in performance are a whole package of improvements. For HP that would be porting, bigger valves, specialized cam profile, higher compression, maybe specialized lightened pistons etc...
For suspension it's the same relativity, every aspect you can improve adds to the performance improvement. So, lightening the unsprung weight of the wheels, brake discs and components is part of the suspension equation. So is the damper technology you chose and the type of springs.
One of the things I learned recently for my project was that most modern bikes are sold with progressive springs, which are not high performance from the point of view of handling and gripping the pavement, but they do help to give a smoother, softer ride which probably sells more bikes to the average buyer. Most old school bikes have linear rate springs. I remember in the '80's when progressive springs were offered for Nortons and they were one of those things advertised to cure a harsh ride of the old school bikes when most of the newer bikes rode much smoother. I am 215 lbs and I recently ordered a set of race tech springs for my Cosentino clones. I was supposed to order 90kg/mm springs or maybe even 95kg/mm, (based on my weight) but I knew that the stock Norton springs were rated at about 67kg/mm, so I thought the racetech calculator was probably for actual racing where the extra stiffness is felt as greater control. I tried to go right down the middle and I ordered 80kg/mm springs and they are noticeably stiffer than the OEM springs, but not overly stiff for sport riding. I'm glad I didn't get the 95kg/mm springs because I'm not racing my bike, and the 80kg/mm feel good to me... without being so soft that they compromise handling or bottom out.
Anyway, there's a lot to learn about suspension to make good decisions that make sense for the kind of riding you want to do. The other thing I learned that I thought was valuable was that suspension is a reactive performance, not an active one...... If the roads are perfect, then cheap crappy suspension feels as good as the expensive technologically superior suspension because the suspension components react to the irregularities in the road surface. If there are no irregularities then there's no dramatic reaction difference to experience and say to yourself " Aha, I feel the difference!!" . Instead you feel the difference when you hit a pot hole or if you grab the front brake hard and get less "nosedive" in your front end.
If you decide to go for the big dollar suspension upgrade, it's not as dramatic as going for the big dollar horsepower upgrade (which is my point above) Suspension is a subtle thing to improve since it only gives you feedback when the road surface challenges your suspension... (which is the reason that spending a lot of money on suspension when the roads you casually ride around on are generally pretty smooth doesn't feel like it returns a lot of bang for the buck)
Here's a good link to blow your mind. This guy just flat out has the best explanations and information I could find on the subject of suspension. He details the showa suspension that I used in my damper modification in his site, and goes into the next levels of modifications like actually porting suspension valves for extra high performance.... It took me a few weeks of reading his stuff to actually start to see how deep this guy has gone down the rabbit hole.... I kinda like that myself. It helps to see the whole spectrum of choices when you see people pushing the performance envelope. I just swapped to the modern high tech cartridges and maybe at some point I would go further and do some valve customizing, but the result I got is good enough for the riding I do... HTH