cush drive buffers another question

Status
Not open for further replies.
britbike220

britbike220

Joined
Aug 6, 2005
Messages
1,211
In the quest to get my recent 850 purchase up to road worthy standards, I found that the cush drive buffers were so rotten that they crumbled and fell out when I removed the wheels. So onto the question. On the parts list it list a thick and thin buffer. Is it safe to assume I need one of each in each of the three holes and second does it matter how they are inserted.
 
Re: cush drive buffers

Yes, one of each in each hole and order is thick one, paddle, thin one in direction of travel.
 
Re: cush drive buffers

Exploded views show thick in the direction of travel, thin to the other side of paddle. At least that's how I see it.
 
Re: cush drive buffers

850cmndo said:
Exploded views show thick in the direction of travel, thin to the other side of paddle. At least that's how I see it.
Click to expand...

Right. Maybe I made it confusing......should have said, in the direction of travel, this is the order.......
 
Re: cush drive buffers

I hate putting the rearend together with new buffers, even WITH lube.
 
Re: cush drive buffers

there is more engine thrusting than braking loads and no need to protect drum brake so thicker pad goes to take the power pulses. I've given up on factory pads they seem to turn to chewing gum in a few tanks of gases just puttering around a cop wouldn't notice. Best solution I got is to snip out blocks form fiber re-enforced conveyor belt. I snip em to kinda snug friction fit in hole and on paddle dry as when I've lubed them seem they or the wheel falls out too easy for my fumble tolerance. Also check the paddle still nailed down and square. If they twist a bit they can chew pads a lot better.
 
Re: cush drive buffers

850cmndo said:
I hate putting the rearend together with new buffers, even WITH lube.
Click to expand...

Some rear wheel castings are tighter than others. I use a belt sander to trim the thick pads to suit the lugs so you don't have to fight with the Speedo gearbox/ spacer and axel assembly when trying to reinstall the wheel to the drum. Ensure you can do this at the side of the road if in case you do get a flat and need to change out or patch a tube. Also your pads will melt into chewing gum if you do not apply your rear brake while you tighten up your rear axel. Applying the brake centralizes the shoes to the Drum and prevents this from dragging and heating up the drum to the point of melting the new pads you just installed. :( After installation and assembly spin the rear wheel with your hand to insure nothing is dragging. Go for a drive and stop after a ½ mile using your front brake and put your hand on the drum. No heat = happy trails.
CNN
 
Re: cush drive buffers

I'm with CNN on using some kind of sander on the rubbers to make fitting the wheel much easier!

I put in new ones some years back and could not get the wheel to fit in there even with a strong assistant pulling the wheel with both hands!
 
Re: cush drive buffers

I like the idea of using conveyor rubber, but who has access to conveyor rubber, not I. I ordered the buffers for both commandos today. Thought I may has well change the other bike when I change the tire and CNN thanks for the belt sander tip.
 
Re: cush drive buffers

I may have access to several grades of rock converyor belt by a local who used to mine gravel, will check and get back to ya as its the cat's meow, cushions fine but a lot longer than factory mush buttons. Depending on thickness I put belt pad plus one of the thinner factory pads on the drive side, belt pad direct against the paddle to spread-cusion the impacts on the normal wimpy pad. Then one conveyor pad on the brake side. Cleaver suggestion to get it able to reassemble on side of road, wish I'd thought of that myself the first time.
 
Re: cush drive buffers

I did the sanding and lubing but I found I had to make a wedge, just slightly larger than the cush and hammer it in. What that does is to drive the rubbers apart, thus having a better chance the pegs will fit in (probably on the 4th try). Watch the sides of the hole you put the rubber in. On mine, they were rounded and I had to relieve the edges of the cush rubber.
 
Re: cush drive buffers

Old tires. PITA but a hack saw, tin snips, and a 6" grinding wheel - make your own pads.

That said, back when the "good tires" came in 18" I dumped the Commando's cush drive wheel for an Atlas bolt up. With no cush, I don't hop any curbs or make any "pop the clutch" hard starts.
 
Re: cush drive buffers

OH yeah, old tires, what a head smacking good idea, sheeze.
i use a craftman's tube cutter, a replaceable razor blade against cutting flat with pliers handle, then nip or sand to radius corners to about match and sit well in the holes.
 
Re: cush drive buffers

Never thought of old tires. I don't even know what thickness the buffers are or actually the shape as the old ones were disintegrated. When I get the new ones I'll take measurements and make my own, great idea xbacksideslider.
 
Re: cush drive buffers

No need to order and measure. Just measure the width of the female hole, the width of the male prong, subtract the latter from the former and divide by two.
 
Re: cush drive buffers

xbacksideslider said:
No need to order and measure. Just measure the width of the female hole, the width of the male prong, subtract the latter from the former and divide by two.
Click to expand...
After said procedure will "I have to pull my weight forward to hold the front end down, and then the rear wheel spins"? :D :D :D
 
Re: cush drive buffers

xbacksideslider said:
No need to order and measure. Just measure the width of the female hole, the width of the male prong, subtract the latter from the former and divide by two.
Click to expand...


We are still talking about a motorcycle right? :lol:
 
Re: cush drive buffers

eeee gad whats become of this thread!
Its 40 below ....and I don't give a F@%k...got a heater in my truck..... and I'm off to the rodeo. :mrgreen:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top