Yet Another One

nortriubuell

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AussieCombat said:
May good luck and peace be with you on that one CJ.
Nothing ventured nothing gained.
AC.
+ 1 with AC here !!! I salute you ... as ya sure got yer work cut out for ya. For me, the teardown is the totally fun part :D However, for me the putting back together, is not the fun part. :cry: (Although I must like it a little or I wouldn't do it.) It's ALL WORTH IT; and ya feel like a million bucks when yer ridin' the finished bike down the road though :D Again, I SALUTE you for working to bring another Norton back to life, cheers !
 
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If you are willing to spend the money you will have a great bike. There are some real desirable features with the MK III. If you ride a another bike with the almost universal right hand brake, left hand shift, you won't have to worry about stabbing a shift lever instead of the brake pedal in a panic situation. Needless to say, an electric start bike is a real joy, especially when the fire goes out at a red light just as it turns green with traffic behind you. Having the benefit of the knowledge on this forum is a tremendous advantage. Had I had access, some fourteen years ago when I built my Commando, to all the accumulated Norton knowledge on display here, I would have built a better bike and at a considerably less expense. Good Nortneering and stay tuned in here.
 
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Well, I got the head off this afternoon. Not real pretty inside there, but no broken fins or bent pushrods. :)

The right side (without the thrown con rod/ cracked crank case) had a small puddle of water in there ?? :(
 
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Got to spend a little time on the bike today and wouldn't ya know it, those cylinders were stuck like chuck!

So I had to be somewhat creative.

A bit of tension and a couple of well placed wacks and off they came. I was hoping that the barrels would be okay, but no joy

It must have made a terrible racket when the cam tried to smash the con rod bolt.
 
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Pity the swine didnt keep the water out of it . A high degree of mechanical sympathy is NOT evident .Such is Life .
a bit of pittings not the end of the whorld . Now , combineing the best of the New and the Old , A new fangled
welder can tackle Cast Iron , effortlessly . As could a olde boy , by Slowly heating the suject , in a kiln
usually encased in a drum of sand as a heat sink ,cooling slowly in the kiln too .
as cracking under distortion was the problem . So a competant repair to the SKIRT ,
combined with SKILLED hand finishing , back to original contoures , neurotic crack testing it ,
AND 920/960 SLEEVES .

Ye Haw . etc .

Actually seeing its right down low , just a overbore if nessesary , after repair , would sufice .

CRACK TESTING may well be applicable to the crank too , appears to have been used as a Gold Stamping Press . :(

Appears to be the THIRD kind of big end failure . :oops: :cry: The old loose nut trick.Wonder if its under factory warranty .
 
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You certainly make me laugh Matt----Factory warranty. Anyway I was sort of leaning towards a 920, I gotta check that crank's bearing journals and the crank case too. I'll try and get a better picture tomorrow, looks like a rats nest in there. I think l saw the broken missing part of the crank case, if so it might help the welder close it up. Cj
 
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Used a hydraulic press to get the piston out of the cylinder. I tried my bench vise with some blocks of wood first, but it didn't budge. I couldn't make out the numbers, will use a magnifying glass later.


Here's the piece of broken con rod bolt that was lodged under the camshaft lobe--after the photos were taken I used a vaccuum and got more stuff out of the crankcase. The other half of the bolt was in there with the nut still attached, so it seems an inferior bolt and not the rod is to blame.

Cylinder skirt broken up pretty badly. I found the two pieces broken from the skirt later in the day, will post later to ask you guys if you think it can be welded back. How important is the skirt? If I were to use JS Mororsports shorter pistons along with his longer rods do you think it might work?

This little rats nest of stuff hid bigger problems.

I'd seen the hole in the front.......but not this huge one in the back of the crankcase :(

A bit discouraged today. Would I have bought it if I'd know the damage was this extensive?? Probably yes, It was in my price range & I just have a thing for MK3's, and I'm learning tons !! I have this sinking feeling right now, thinking about the damage to the crankshaft, It's wobbling on it's end bearings. I might just have to wait to find out though, as I'm probably going to put the barrels and head back on, then bag, tag and box the rest so I can get the garage cleaned up. The tank ,seat , front fender and probably the exhaust are going on my other MK3 and I'll focus on that one.
 

L.A.B.

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cjandme said:
I couldn't make out the numbers, will use a magnifying glass later.
The number is likely to be 23258. The rod has the usual (non-'D' rod) manufacturer's mark.
The 'R' number ('R10R' in this instance) often varies.
 
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Somebody whos 80 mightve welded up a few in their day , tricky job , unless you know what youre doing .The Barrel .

Tear whole darn thing down , & drop the corroded bits in a bucket of diesel etc . Corosions a pain in the butt .
Cant corrode with No Oxygen . They say theres none 15000 feet down , If you chuck it over the side . :shock: :oops: :p
Chain bar lube or M/cycle chain airsols ok to keep air of , particularly on newly machined bits .

Theres probly a few lakes around they threw stolen bikes in , if you do scuba diveing , and need a few parts . :p

R.H. case MAY be scrap . Such is Life .

Pile of newspaper on the deck , you can throw out the filth as you go , with a bin bag handy . Blankety Ratshit .
V8s'd been in a Farm shed 10 years , Threw the rear floor mat out , on the Stn.. Wagon . After Id unloaded them .
Bubonic Plague . :roll: :( :wink:

Plenty of work yet in cleaning that lot up , Tai Ho on hunting for a time . Looking back after a year its surpriseing whats been available .
 
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Gosh what a mess to make a man out of you mechanically and financially. i've got similar photo's of Trixie 750 when a rod bolt let go just about coasting at 50 mph looking at fields of flowers, but not all the rusted rats nest, ugh. Trixie's lower bore was cracked out too and was told don't worry about it as piston rings don't go down that far, so a non issue. I've almost 5000 miles on her now. The two strongest over built items in C'do are their Z plates and rods, so something else must go first as you state.

Crank is likely toast being bent, journals scored-rusted and maybe cast iron flywheel with lurking grain fractures inside. I've had lots of welding done on Peel 750 cases and some JBWeld on Trixie Combat to save em. Distortion can be a bugger to beat out from welding but doable. I read that the case halves must be matched to fit but don't know for sure if a way around needing both halves to work, seal and align.

While you are spending money in your head on all the choices to face, might consider the 1004 cc long stroke available now. Give some thought to the starting strain on kicker ratchet or electric leg. Look under new bikes in here...
http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/
 
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I'd like to see your pictures of Trixie's thrown rod HoboT, if they're handy or already posted in a build thread. If i have to buy cases and a crank, I'm thinking Steve Maney's but they're $1375 usd right now, another $1070 for his cylinders (no way I'd put these barrels on his cases , and $1900 for his light weight crank. then get JS motor sports light weight pistons and carrillo rods, DLC valves and valve train, Cam and lifters, Sparks 220w alt, Oldbritts EI, CNW head steady etc...etc...etc.. all these parts cost money I don't have right now, It's fun to plan it though. Yep, this ones going on the back burner. Cj
 
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Might be cheaper to put a pre unit Triumph in it , :shock: A isolastic TRITON . :p :lol:
:| You can see why im tossing up wether to chop a old ford escort engine in half , crank'd be the expensive issue there .
good engines $200 .Was thinking of produceing a kit of the main bits once , :?: A pommy 8000rpm 3 bearing twin .
Merc 190 Cosw. stalled , the 2.5 is near 100 bore . ' WE ' need 100 to get sufficent valve area , so the say , 4 valve .
AND a 80 mm stroke .Keep a eye out for a 2.3 Mrcedes Cosworth :p :lol: , thrust brg. Is centre , so chops into twin o.k.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpQfnUoO ... re=related .

No analogies with this link , bar wheres a lake full of cycles . ? :lol:
The aircraft here was thought to be junk by the locals , and left to rot.
Youll note anything moved was functioning here or in the links .
Virtually a airworthy time warp resoration possible , instruments and all .

Opinions it was best left preserved where it was , as the vandles , looters and neglect sealed its fate as a junked relic .

A fearfull waste . The perspective is tangeable to the cause . FUDGE .
 
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Here is what I able to vaccuum out of the bottom of the crankcase, Except for the allen wrench-it was windy and I just used it as a paper weight.

The two pieces in the upper right hand corner are from the cylinder skirt.

A little bit closer shows both connecting rod bolts still had their nuts connected :I
 
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:shock: Did you get to talking with the Rider and hear what Happened ? :shock:

' Whye , Id Jeest Passed thart Z wone , arnd gooter uop parst 90 , nd aye droupeder inta sicond for thar bend upar head .? '


Failure = ' electrical fault ' . Conrod though wireing loom . ! :mrgreen:
 
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I said that i was gonna put it away in the back of the garage, but I can't seem to do that yet. Again I'm supprised by what i keep finding on this bike. I pulled the Primary's drain plug and it started pissing water, like i said before i shouldn't have been supprised but i was.

That bottle has what drained out. Again I used the ratchet strap to help pull off the Primary cover, I just hooked it to the boat trailer and then put the other hook into the large inspection plug hole and tightened the strap, & it popped free from alll the silicone.

It looks to be all there, I cleaned it out and sprayed oil on everything, then buttoned it back up. I think the gearbox is next, not sure how water could get in there but........
 
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Yea , wise to get inside it all , get any ' moisture ' out . Forks and trans too . . parked outdoors Eh .

Just LOOK how many bits you can toss out if you loose the electric foot , Weight is the enemy of Pow formance . :D

Would J.B. weld fix the Cases . :lol: :roll: :p :oops: . sorry .The Electric start had the higer 2nd gear for noise regs .
dropped the rpms in the drive by.Theyed go up 1 tooth on 2nd and change first to the smallest kick start cogs , 3 gears
gets a semi close set of ratios .For what its worth .
 
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Awesome damage. BTW water is a known poor lubricant but is . Fluff and mouse hole great.Blowed up real good.Many decisions to be made.
 
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