Winter Storage

It's time for me to store my Mk III and Atlas for the winter, and I want to make sure I do as much as I can to at least protect the bikes though the winter. Bikes will be stored in my unheated garage, and where I live, temps can spend a lot of time in the single digits (F) or negative. In the past, I've run carbs dry, filled tanks to the rim and added stabilizer to the fuel, pulled plugs and squirted either engine mister or oil into the cylinders, rotated them through a few times, then reinserted plugs. Batteries on both bike are on tenders, so I alternate charging each through the winter. Put the bikes up on the center stands in the back of the garage, and that's it till spring.
Given that all I can get is E-10 gas, leaving the tanks full concerns me. I've routinely done it on my relatively new HD with no issues. but also figured I could get a new tank relatively easily if it somehow corroded or fouled. Obviously replacement tanks for Nortons aren't as readily available.
Anyone else out there have any tips or tricks for cold weather storage?

You do way more than I ever did other than the gas. On my bikes I always drained the tank/carbs for winter storage and also disconnected the battery - I had a couple of bad experiences with tenders and found that for winter storage the disconnected batt was fine at springtime.

Currently I "winterize" two cars and a boat - bike is in Mexico so it's used year-around. But the cars are stored with Sta-bil in the fuel and a good run for 10+ miles to ensure the Stabil is throughout the system and the batteries disconnected. I do not worry about filling the tanks for storage. Years of boat winterizing has convinced me that the issue of condensation is nonexistent. Re the batts, the cars are unused for as long as 7 months and at the first start after storage the batteries always start them just as quickly as if the cars were in daily use. Actually, all I do for the cars is add the stabil and a couple gallons of new fuel, run them on the road so they get up to full operating temp, put them in the garage, inflate tires to 50 psi, and disconnect the batt.

I always empty carbs & tank and fill with either Redex or 2T oil and give tank a good swill with oil.
When coming to next spring rinse tank out with petrol, don’ throw fuel away and fill up with fresh petrol.

Before storing away, take the bike for a run and get the oil up to operating temp. and then drain. Refill with fresh oil and filter. This removes the water, acids and other corrosive stuff (from cylinder blow-by) you don't want sitting in the engine over winter.

Instead of stowing the bike away, actually what you should be doing is investing in some heated clothing. I'll be trying out my new Gerbing XR12 gloves this weekend on the way to the Pheasant Plucker rally, Ripley, Derbyshire. Weather forecast is ok 5-9 Deg C.

Al-otment said:

Before storing away, take the bike for a run and get the oil up to operating temp. and then drain. Refill with fresh oil and filter. This removes the water, acids and other corrosive stuff (from cylinder blow-by) you don't want sitting in the engine over winter.

Instead of stowing the bike away, actually what you should be doing is investing in some heated clothing. I'll be trying out my new Gerbing XR12 gloves this weekend on the way to the Pheasant Plucker rally, Ripley, Derbyshire. Weather forecast is ok 5-9 Deg C.

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On this side of the pond the rain freezes so we get snow and lots of it
and to make things a little worse for us they like to pour loads of sand and salt on the roads
+2 on changing the oil before storing
I also lay a large sheet of plastic vapour barrier on the cement floor under the bike helps prevent moisture

Hi,
I don't know if it makes any difference but I usually bring the pistons up to TDC (well one at TDC the other on overlap) figuring that in this position none of the valve springs will have to be compressed during storage. I also squirt some oil into the spark plug holes. My storage is inside the house so gas tanks must be drained and dried for fire safety.

GB

Al-otment said:

Before storing away, take the bike for a run and get the oil up to operating temp. and then drain. Refill with fresh oil and filter. This removes the water, acids and other corrosive stuff (from cylinder blow-by) you don't want sitting in the engine over winter.

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Hadn't heard of this but makes perfect sense. (gotta love this forum).

It's a bit extra work but I would remove the drained fuel tank, rinse it out, let it dry, inspect for bottom for any rust due to ethanol fuel/water separation, then bring it inside in a heated area for the winter. Replacements are just too expensive to neglect.
Also if the garage temperature goes down to freezing, bring the seat inside too. The vinyl can deteriorate with freeze/thaw cycling just like a garden hose.
The tach/speedo heads can also be removed easily for inside storage.

For really long term storage the cylinder/piston lubrication is critical and kicking the pistons thru a few times every once in a while will help too.

You can also ask around a local bike shop for their winter storage rates. This is good for apartment living without inside garages.

Bob Z. said:

It's a bit extra work but I would remove the drained fuel tank, rinse it out, let it dry, inspect for bottom for any rust due to ethanol fuel/water separation, then bring it inside in a heated area for the winter. Replacements are just too expensive to neglect.
Also if the garage temperature goes down to freezing, bring the seat inside too. The vinyl can deteriorate with freeze/thaw cycling just like a garden hose.
The tach/speedo heads can also be removed easily for inside storage.

For really long term storage the cylinder/piston lubrication is critical and kicking the pistons thru a few times every once in a while will help too.

You can also ask around a local bike shop for their winter storage rates. This is good for apartment living without inside garages.

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Ethanol is a PLUS in this regard... no puddle of water lurking in the bottom seam of fuel tanks to rust. As a preventive measure, I've always used Isopropyl alcohol year round to remove water, no longer needed, the ethanol keeps it in suspension, burned away continually. +1 on Sta-Bil and 2-cycle oil. 35 years of oily gas, 25 years of Sta-Bil in dozens of seasonal engines. Drama free, 100%

Change the oil

Disconnect the battery and take it in the house where it's warm. If it looses it's charge it will freeze. A trickle charge for a few hours once a month will keep it fresh.

Drain the tank and carbs completely. Hang a couple desiccant packs from a piece of string inside the tank and close the cap. Another bag in the oil tank is a good idea.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stack-On-Safe ... k/14707414

They really work to keep the tanks rust free. Jim

If I could run guide it down the stairs, I would. So I do the next best thing.
Here is Michigan, and I am sure other place as well, we will get extremely cold with an unseasonable warm spell the brings condensation into the picture.

It is not that hard to take both wheel off and carry them downstairs to the basement along with the brake hub. These, along with the fuel tank(after draining and drying), the side covers, battery and various supplies that don't do well when freezing and thawing goes on, are kept safe and dry.

I usually do many little thing like lap valve seats, clean clutch or this year re bush the gearbox and add an automatic cam chain adjuster and chain. Also looking at a small oil cooler with that nice little automatic bypass valve.

I don't leave it alone for very long. If it gets warm enough to cause condensation, I fire up a karosene heater and take the opportunity to fiddle fart with it. Maybe give it a light mist of WD. No big whoop, it's just what i can and like to do.

I store mine in heated shed ,add stabil to gas ,put on center stand,connect to smart charger and start them once a month and bring engine up to temp. that's it never any problems last ten years and very easy.
Craig

Craig said:

I store mine in heated shed ,add stabil to gas ,put on center stand,connect to smart charger and start them once a month and bring engine up to temp. that's it never any problems last ten years and very easy.
Craig

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I feel it needs to be mentioned.

Leaving the bike stored on the center stand will load the ISO rubbers due to the fact that the center stand is attached to the cradle.
I believe this is undesirable and may promote premature failure to the rubbers.

Naw if the center stand in on the cradle then the frame it compress the upper cushion while on tires the power plant presses down to compress the lower cushion, so if any distortion occurs its to the benefit of isolastic function and the engine comes down harder to a stop to reverse than going up to reverse because gravity and road loads through shock assist that direction of orbital swing. It know that storing on side stand tends to put a cant in the cushions and saw such in 2 old sets I've dealt with. Factory support spring or Jim's under belly one should make it about a non issue but for factory 750's, wearing out if ya ride and even if ya don't. I don't like the picture of oil setting more to LH head but that's just me. If big bugs or small rodents around put something in muffler exits and vent tube to or may get a nest of spiders or mud dubbers in my case. If condensation expected not bad id to spray wax rims and paint and cases to just wipe off and let burn off later. Tools too can get ughly just left about or even drawers though and some are so shiney to critters they just piss on em in joy. I've learn my lesion on spares, greased and wrapped inside tins as plastic is no defense to buck teeth.
Most the decicant packs can be gentle re heated to dry out and reuse.

hobot said:

Naw if the center stand in on the cradle then the frame it compress the upper cushion while on tires the power plant presses down to compress the lower cushion, so if any distortion occurs its to the benefit of isolastic function and the engine comes down harder to a stop to reverse than going up to reverse because gravity and road loads through shock assist that direction of orbital swing.

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Are you sure about that? So if you ride 1, 2 or 4 hours a day (I wish) during a riding season, then that leave the other, we'll generously say, 20 hour a day and the entire off season to take the gravitational effect.

Your theory suggests that if all resting and riding times were equal it would make some sense or at least be sort of exceptable to store on the center stand leaving the weight of the entire bike on the rubbers, but we all know that this is not the case.

When riding the power unit is what rest on the iso and pressures on upper and lower regions of the rubbers fluctuate through acceleration and deacceleration. Maintaining a concentric state with as little stress as possible is what will keep integrity to the system.

The bike should be stored neutral freeing the iso's as if you were adjusting them per the manual.

I have heard that story before about centre stand but... I changed out all isolastic bushes with the venier style ones four years ago, every spring reset the isos and ride no problems like I said. Sometimes we are all guilty of looking for problems that just aren't there, if my newer iso bushes last a few more years with my outrageous treatment and I have to replace then so be it.
Craig

I discovered that my new isos took a set after only 1 year because I installed a Hemmings adjuster then. That's the front ones, didn't pull the rear ones, they were compressed to the bottom. Unless the Jim C. Kibblewhite spring is installed, I doubt if it's going to make any difference on the isos taking a set, but it might help to jack the engine up during storage. Unless some one makes a study, we'll never know.

And what about the early bikes with the center stand on the frame? I guess they'll take a set the other way? I'll have to think about that one.

Dave
69S

I usually ride bike once or twice a week in our season April to Nov. the rest of time it sits on centre stand in shed on charger waiting . Since new isos install it runs very smooth .I check isos every spring and adjust I have had no reason to open them up since all is good.I hope I'm not causing quick wear on them with my storage habits but the ones I removed were not that bad and I'm pretty sure they were original with about same storage method or at least that was how it was stored when I found it. If they last ten years I'm a happy regardless.
Craig

So hobot, remember that other thread about the short shocks vs the long shocks? I've got the long ones and when on the center stand, which is how it spends it's winter, both tires are pretty substantialy on the ground. So I guess I'm storing the bike the best possible way with the iso's dead nuts in the center! yippe! I also drain the oil tank into a clean jug and dump it back in in the spring . I use a really good [expensive] oil and refuse to toss it before it's time I don't mind a little wet sumpage but 3 quarts is too much. Battery out, down in the basement and on a tender now and then, and gas tank full. Ethenol at 10% will absorb water from the air and rust a tank, the more air space, the more moisture, so empty the tank, or top it off.

Craig said:

I usually ride bike once or twice a week in our season April to Nov. the rest of time it sits on centre stand in shed on charger waiting . Since new isos install it runs very smooth .I check isos every spring and adjust I have had no reason to open them up since all is good.I hope I'm not causing quick wear on them with my storage habits but the ones I removed were not that bad and I'm pretty sure they were original with about same storage method or at least that was how it was stored when I found it. If they last ten years I'm a happy regardless.
Craig

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That's hard to argue with, Craig.

So much of what is discussed here has to do with splitting hairs or simply what someone is more comfortable with (personal preference). Whether we store it supported on the frame or on the center stand may be just that, splitting hairs. I guess it's my personal preference to store it supported on the frame and my reasoning, rational or not, is stated in prior posts. No big whoop.