Discussion in 'Norton Commando Motorcycles (Classic)' started by concours, Jan 8, 2018.
Some questions if I may:
What did you spray on the head gasket?
Is the wire you used copper? How thick is it? Did you also put around the pushrod tunnels?
And... how the heck did you hold it in place as you fitted the head?
Nice choice of beer
Nice so far concours,
You might need to tweek the r/h exhaust rocker shaft a smidge clockwise, but you will find that out when you put the rocker spindle retaining plate on.
Permatex copper spray-a-gasket.
The wire is .003" supplied by JS with the copper head gasket. Around the tunnels. I ran short, harvested some wire from a coil on a small relay.
The copper spray gasket once tacky, held the wire in place.
Got done. Good eye.
concours, nice job! what did you paint the barrels (jugs) with? it looks very smooth.
In hindsight I should have suggested the "ludwig cooling trick" for the head, (While you had it off) where a 5/16 hole is drilled through three fins just in the valley of the push-rod tunnels and in front of the jointing surface boss. https://i747.photobucket.com/albums...3-799e-4d27-ba1d-be49603896b9_zpsaszzjobg.jpg
The other trick is to do what cNw does with the bottom rear engine bolt, which holds the lowest transmission engine cradle. Change that hole from 5/16" bolt to 3/8" bolt. Use grade 8 bolts and nut or the cNw engine bolt kit.
I hope you did something permanent for crankcase venting while you had it apart.
I'd read of the cooling holes drilled. Didn't move me.
I see no evidence of movement on the alloy where the engine meets the cradle. No need to solve a problem that doesn't exist (for me).
I've run an XS650 breather for 32K, works beautifully (no oil leaks anywhere). A Comnoz breather will thread in anytime, if the mood strikes me.
What I forgot to photograph, was the center stud for the inner primary, being generously slathered with black oil resistant RTV, also, the hole in the case slathered with RTV, so when slid together, it's oil tight. I had wiped off the excess in this image.
The back side. I’ll peel off the excess when it’s fully cured.
The Barny plates are worn where the run on the clutch hub, so, out they go.
RTV for the stator wire penetration.
Ready to ride yet?
Here it is kids, the totally leak free, Commando primary chaincase.
And, it’ll be WAY overfilled, to keep every body in there happy.
The go ahead/back up chain tensioning procedure was an uneeded waste of time with the carbs & air filter off.
Two trial/error push bolt settings, lever the trans backward against the slop in the bolt holes, hold & tighten. Presto.
Now that I look at it, I’ll do it from the bottom going forward, even with the bike fully assembled.
Spindle bushings getting the gravity drip 140 lube.
Hex key for air vent.
No, but soon. "Wind 'er up and DUMP uh..." (the clutch not the bike)
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