Where on the frame?

searunner said:

The use of 3 wires- joined to the same connections - can be used to increase the power (Amperes) transferred, maintaining a good flexibility The very strange phenomenon are that the 3 wires (all same diameter,all joined from-to the same connections,all same length)
only ONE (the central)are damaged by heat, usually, in the same situations "short or over-absorption " all 3 wires are damaged in same manner.

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I think you might find the ring terminal simply serves as a junction for the three red wires, and that they are not 3 wires 'in parallel'.
That would also explain why only one of the 3 wires has been damaged because I think only one of the three wires connects to the battery positive terminal. I know from another of your photos that the battery positive terminal also has three red wires, but this could be yet another junction point so they may not be the same three wires that connect to the head steady.

searunner,

Whilst looking at your previous photo again, I noticed that the left hand carb manifold is a '32', but the right hand manifold is a '30'.
One of your other photos shows the left carb has the early type short tickler button, in which case it might be worth checking that it has a matching pair of carbs and not two odd ones?

Someone was asking for a pic?

This is what it looks like at the mo. The new loom arrived the other day, so hopefully I can start plugging things in @ the w/e.

Edit for the weirdness of BP. :roll:

Hi L.A.B.
tanks for assistance-you are hawk eyed- i haven't find on CARBS any writing (as SU carbs) i have measured the carbs intake after the air filter
and they have the same external diameter 45mm - intakes from carbs to engine seems correct to me (but I will control when I clean the carbs) only different are the button LX of the agitator.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3 ... directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/o ... directlink
Today I have worked a lot, and the results are that all the 3 wire are strongly soldered and crimped to the clips- all 3 are correctly connected
point to point- the semi-burned central wire was very weak and can have more resistance, I have disconnected the cables and clips from the ground the measurement confirm correct connection from the two clips and 0 Ohms resistance-then I have cut the semi burned wire, and again the measurement are OK, I haven't find one red strong wire in my baazar- but my propose are to solder and crimp it together to the others -but routed at the external of the herness
the control of the herness and in the Headlamp haven't find any trace of overheating wires
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/f ... directlink
also the fuse 30A appear to me correct- BUT I am not sure if it is retarded, my others LUCAS on the cars have a blue paper inside-
somewhere I have a spare for the substitution
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/R ... directlink

The Head steady, I have dismantled it- are the two Silent block and the bracket -- one of the two are already on - waiting that WD40 have effect
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/W ... directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1 ... directlink

searunner said:

i haven't find on CARBS any writing (as SU carbs)

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On the right hand side of each carb body you should see a small raised pad? This has the carb type and original build specification code number on it?

searunner said:

i have measured the carbs intake after the air filter
and they have the same external diameter 45mm

Click to expand...

Yes, the intake diameter would be the same for all '900' series (28mm-32mm) Mk1 Concentrics as they use the same basic size of body casting, only the bore sizes are different.

searunner said:

- intakes from carbs to engine seems correct to me

Click to expand...

The right hand intake manifold appears to be the 750 '3 rib' type for a 30mm carb, (30mm reducing to 28.5mm at the cylinder head) however it could have been opened out to 32mm?

searunner said:

the fuse 30A appear to me correct

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If it is a 30A fuse and not 35A then there is a distinct possibility it is a continuous rated '30A' fuse. Blow rated fuses would usually be 25A (12.5A Cont.) or 35A (17.5A Cont.).


http://www.car-fuses.co.uk/content/glass-fuses.php

The LUCAS type (also an old fuse) is of similar appearance to Glass Fuse, but that is where the similarity ends.

Available in two different lengths, 1" (inch) or 1-1/4" (inch), the information stamped onto the Lucas fuse can be confusing. Basically, the figure displayed is that of twice the continuous amp rating that the specific electrical system should be using.

Therefore, you should divide the ("stamped") figure by 2, which will give you the protected circuit continuous amperage.

Also independently colour coded, in the following ratings:
1.5A (3A) - Blue
2.25A (4.5A) - Yellow
2.5A (5A) - Red on Yellow
3A (6A) - Green
4A (8A) - Brown
5A (10A) - Red on Green
5A (10A) - Green on Black
6A (12A) - Red on Brown
7.5A (15A) - Light Brown
12.5A (25A) - Pink
17.5A (35A) - White
25A (50A) - Purple on Yellow
30A (60A) - Yellow on Red

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L.A.B thanks for your indications.
rethinking to the GROUND solution find on my Norton -
1) the solution was wrong ! -GROUND strap connected to the HEAD STEADY silent block can be right for engine ground -BUT not for the others ancillary as lamps - horn and ignition -the presence of the isolastic system can be one strong obstacle to one good GROUND for all systems- probably a complete electrical insulation is not possible, but a poor GROUND connection can be possible
So I have added (outside from the harness-crimped and soldered) one strong GROUND wire from the Battery POSITIVE to the FRAME central reinforcement, and from here to the HEAD STEADY so the ancillary and the engine have one sure GROUND connection
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/0 ... directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/l ... directlink

I will continue the carbs examination on a newTopic
Cheers