What's the trick to parting the cylinder barrels?

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What's the trick to parting the cylinder barrels?


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What's the trick to parting the cylinder barrels?


A few whacks after about 3 minutes of torching around the base and whamo! it just came free. The 2 rear nuts are helpful as they will hold it up after the barrels start to move. I did drop one of the rear washers into the case but I'm going to part the cases to look at everything anyway so I'll find it. The inner tappet surface has some curious erosions in it's center which are visible on the photo (the tappet on the left) but the cam surface looks good, but that'll be inspected too . A lot of coke on the piston tops for just 5600 mi.

What's the trick to parting the cylinder barrels?
 
Hurray! How do your bores look? I have been wondering if they still have cross hatching visible?
 
Bores still, at 5600 mi, show faint x-hatch and a couple of longitudinal lines that I can't feel with a fingernail. I'll probably just Scotchpad them and put in new rings. Pistons look ok on the sides but I'll know if there is any knock damage when I clean the coke off the piston tops.

Here's the pic:

What's the trick to parting the cylinder barrels?
 
The bores look glazed to me, and there is evidence of excessive oil in the combustion chamber.............Scotchpad seems just the thing to deal with this.
 
On that note, has anyone wrapped scotchpad on the 3-stone hone and roughed it up that way?
 
7000 said:
DogT, good to know there's another Norton guy who likes tractors. They're both simple machines, really, just the Commando is a bit more eccentric.
If people want to complain about the Norton and how hard it is to work on; just to replace the brakes on the JD, you have to pull the rear wheels and axles off the transmission because the disks (yes inboard hydraulic disk brakes in a 1965 tractor) are in the trans next to the axle. Tyres including the axle are probably about 1500lbs each unless you want to remove the calcium chloride from the inner tubes. Talk about a job, I had to throw double 2x10 boards across the barn beams, use a chain hoist just to get the weight off the axle and tyre and then jack up the center of the trans. Then you have to line it all back up to get it together and you can't see what is going on with the splines. You need 3 gorillas to work on these things, and prices, holy cow, I broke a lift link and they wanted $700 for a new one, I found a used one for about $150. I had to replace the hydraulic pump once and that was $800 about 10 years ago. If the hydraulic pump isn't working, the front end loader won't raise and you're going nowhere. Rear tyres cost about $800 each installed. You can't do them yourself, there's a guy that comes out in a truck with all the equipment.

The JD isn't a toy, it's necessary on my 55 acres and the 20° grade to the house in the winter.

Dave
69S
 
powerdoc said:
A JD actually has brakes?
Yes, and they work too, independent on each side or lock them together. Got independent hydraulic PTO too, cool, you can turn off the bush hog without pressing in the clutch. Unlike the International B414 that I had with mechanical brakes, 2 stage clutch, the only way you could slow down was to down shift or shut it off. Scary sometimes, even worse than the TLS.

Dave
69S
 
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