Wanted: rearset footrest info for 74 Interstate

After a longer ride today I’ve realised the stock footpegs are much too far forwards for my liking. I need to move my feet back a good 4-6 inches.

Who does a set and/or can I buy in UK? Any suggestions?

RGM and Norvil do them. AN do some proddie racer parts.

Further afield, cNw and NYC Norton do quality offerings.

Norman Hyde used to do some, they sometimes come up used on eBay etc. These are less rear-set than the others, and rubber mounted, and fugly !

You basically need to put some thought into where you actually want your feet, and whether you want a reversed lever or linkage for the gear-change.

You may also need / want to change the kickstarter lever for the RGM T160 type for better clearance.

And of course don't forget Don Pinder Mr "Madass"

olympus said:

And of course don't forget Don Pinder Mr "Madass"

Click to expand...

that's Don Pender, aka madass140 on this site. Web store here:

I have the Hyde rear sets on my MKIII Interstate, and just installed Don's rear sets on my MKII roadster. I wanted rubber covered footpegs vs alloy for the comfort. They work pretty well for me.

Saw this recently
The position looks great to me

Flatspot said:

After a longer ride today I’ve realised the stock footpegs are much too far forwards for my liking. I need to move my feet back a good 4-6 inches.

Who does a set and/or can I buy in UK? Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

I posted this on the other thread that you mentioned footrests. Not sure if you saw it so here it is again.

The most common position for a lot of rear-sets is thru the rear footpeg bracket mounting hole. I did a mashup of the shifters to see how they sit.



The longest here is Don Pender's Dunstall repop. Personally, I find this shifter too long, as I like my heel of the boot rear of the footpeg and not ontop of it.

The mid-length is an old Brian Slark one from the 80s, but is the same as the Clubman. I find this pretty ideal.

The shortest one is the NYC Norton. But it actually sits further back and up from where the others do. And you need a T160 style kicker. And the boot toe is cramped to the kicker.



Another consideration for me is the efficacy of the rear brake lever. Here, Don's is the clear winner - the angle of the pillar and the stoutness of the cast brake lever gives exceptional leverage. The NYN is the clear loser. Very little leverage on the lever means the rear brake is even more anemic than normal. Not an issue on a race bike, but I found it distressing on the street. I have feedback the Norvil is anemic as well.



Right now I run Don's on the brake and a Clubman on the shifter, although I have some more permanent plans for a hybrid shifter.

The Half length stock hangers'd be better for touring with baggage .

Shorten & rechrome stock ones . Or paintem black . Need a GOOD welder .

For ' ton downt bypass ' the rearsets are good for a crick in the neck , poor rear vision & a acheing back ,
unless you keep it over the ton .

I did a mock-up of the position of the commercially available ones (see gortnipper's post #8) and they are definitively too far back for me (Interstate) so ended up making my own (4" back instead of 8") mentioned by cliffa in post #7.
I'm very happy with the position and retention of kick-starter.
The jig is still available if you'd like it.
Cheers
Rob

milfordite said:

I have the Hyde rear sets on my MKIII Interstate, and just installed Don's rear sets on my MKII roadster. I wanted rubber covered footpegs vs alloy for the comfort. They work pretty well for me.

Click to expand...

Can you please post a pic of the rear set on your MKIII? Thanks.

Matt Spencer said:

The Half length stock hangers'd be better for touring with baggage .

Shorten & rechrome stock ones . Or paintem black . Need a GOOD welder .

For ' ton downt bypass ' the rearsets are good for a crick in the neck , poor rear vision & a acheing back ,
unless you keep it over the ton .

Click to expand...

Nah. Haven't had the stock ones on for ever. Since '89. Mostly with UK bars.

It looks like RGM no longer sell the 2002 rearsets: I bought them for my last Commando rebuild: there was a folding ally gear lever ( folded inboard to allow kick starting), and it pivoted directly on the alloy footrest, so seized up after 60 miles, when on a long shakedown run. Local engineering firm made a suitable ‘teflon’ bush to sort that. Meanwhile, recovering from a stalled engine was interesting: left hand on throttle while folding/kickstarting/unfolding gear lever......
and I still road it to the top of Norway and back that summer!

While your at it , FOLDING ones would be a enhancement . Back'n up at 45 degrees . Preferably a ball with coil spring behind detent ,, for down & UP .

Std. Commando footrests are a hindrace ' lane splitting. And take up parking space, in ' the shed ' . So if it'll STAY Folded , you dont have to knock your
shin on it every time you go past . Any ticketed welder should do a Sound Weld on shortening stock hangers . Less complicated the better .


Yr NORVIL foot brake lever , A thing on a motorbike on the other side .

THINGS are a bit differant , without the big huckery footrest mounting plates , Of Course !!! .

Was looking for a picture of a little Std. dunstall Brake Lever . But these'll do . Dont like CNC stuff on antiquity .

\Dunno if anyones tried shiftig the stock steel hangers to the rear of the mounting plates . Tecnically the tourque will twist them , as you land at the bottom of Bray Hill at 150 mph ,
and lock the rear brake . So if your 20 stone, dont try it .

Norton P11(A) G15CS Pair of folding footrests (inc) (029859) | frame parts | obsoletebikeparts.com​

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https://www.obsoletebikeparts.com/a-57987285/frame-parts/norton-p11-a-g15cs-pair-of-folding-footrests-inc-029859/&psig=AOvVaw0lcTzWWNNWX7FekcbRoQks&ust=1682396446640000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CA8QjhxqFwoTCNi5sKbVwf4CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAa
NoW , a bit of butchert , Ahem E N G I N E E R I N G

On these , being ' in house ' youd have ' period ' fittings , and being lighter , they wouldnt slow you down .

As in you can see theyre not as beefy , Fist trick'd be using the bits on the end on new similar tube , and plates to fit hangers - 3 bolt fit.
Or just find the pegs & bolts . The rests ; custom ' or school metalshop stuff , ifin you know metal bonding .

1966 Norton N15CS G15 CS 750 Atlas P11 N15 Matchless *2244 FOOT PEGS​

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https://www.ebay.com/itm/234784399692&psig=AOvVaw0SXb29Y_6TKY0yyPd2tPIT&ust=1682397216109000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CA8QjhxqFwoTCJjPrJXYwf4CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAE
OR

Something with a vaugue resemblance to this , at the three bolt fitting , With bits like THESE welded / bolted through from aft , if the plates thick ,


Whack all the bit on the left off , and weld the big diameter bit to 1/4 steel plate ,drop em in at your local galvaniser .

Dunno if these blokes wouldnt knock out a set for you ; https://sjmotorcycleengineering.com/collections/footrests
skunks if they wouldnt . See the bolts in through the back side , on these . So as is - countersunk somewhere to clear a H.T. Allen Head Blot .



Technically , a say 2 in vertical x 1 1/4 tempered plate or washer behind it , It'd bolt STRAIGHT TO the Std. Plates- drilled .
A thing with a shafty bit like that , will take rotateing bits , like brake levers & the other one too. On the other side .