TW wrecks a perfectly good Commando etc.

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I had forgotten how heavy the main lump was when I lifted it up onto the bench after fitting the cradle unit on the floor.
The perils of getting elderly.

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Paper, scissor, Brembo.

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The US$9 Brembo + post + new pads + a full seal kit (dust and pressure) from the UK @ powerhouse-uk / eBay.

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This is off a Moto Guzzi (65 mm mount centres) but are common on many bikes also in 40 mm mount centres for a stock brake rotor.
I faced the outer pads where it mounts on the forks.

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That's better, titanium 12 points.
If I don't recess the bolt flanges into the bracket I will call that done.
Rough and ready to go.

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More projects and not even lunch time yet.

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No rest for the wicked , actually it seems like you:re having a grand old time, I know I sure am reading/following along. it takes my mind off of the troubles of the moment, when I can:t sleep well. like now , its almost midnight and Ive got to get up at 0530 tomorrow. thanks for posting.
 
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I was saddened to read of your wife and hope there is a positive outcome.
 

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I had converted the steering head bearings to tapered rollers, easy job and have a good axial load capacity.

This is a pic of the set up in a TL1000.
Koyo caged inner ball bearing (I could not find a suitable Koyo race to fit the Norton) with cups of sorts.
It is little different to many Japanese bikes or bikes that came with tapered roller bearings stock.

The bearing clearance is set by the adjuster locking ring on the stem, the other locking ring locking to it to hold that setting.
The (upper) triple clamp sits on top of those locking rings and its top ring locks the triple to the two lower locking rings with no ill effect on the bearing clearance.
Seems simple enough.

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What happens if you want to add taper roller bearings to a later model Commando.
The first problem is the design does not allow bearing adjustment while retaining the mechanical integrity up through the stem from the tight bottom nut.
Ball bearing / inner spacer tube / ball bearing / lower triple / large nut tightened 'really tight.
Seems simple enough.

The internets seem to suggest you just leave the inner spacer tube out with tapered rollers which means the large lower nut with its coarse thread becomes some form of bogan adjuster and left all but finger tight.

The tapered roller bearings I found left the inner spacer tube to short.
All I did was face both ends of the stock spacer tube then machine a 4140 heavy shim lapping the last 0.001" to size to set the bearing clearance.

The alloy tube replaces the lower triple clamp for ease of initial setting of the bearings, the lower nut is cranked tight.
It has Morey's Bigfoot EP 2 grease for its tackiness.

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I used Moto Guzzi final drive shims before discarding those and machining a heavy shim.

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What does it mean.
The bearings are adjusted and stable, the lower nut can be tightened as it was meant to be.
You will still get people saying the inner tube can be left out, good luck adjusting the bearings if you do.

The taper roller bearings cost pennies more than the ball version they replaced.
To easy and with that grease will never need touching again in my lifetime.
 

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Note to self, buy a hammer and nails.

The body is Acetyl with a machined 2 mm radius to the OD.
The inner is a 2 mm by 4 mm deep press fit ring that holds the gauge, it then got the same 2 mm radius for a combined 4 mm radius for the two.

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Yes you will, ball or roller, both will indent at the straight aheard position and will require turning to make them last longer.

I guess it's the "in my lifetime" i.e. the 100 miles a year part that's relevant. Not like when we were couriers in London doing 1500+ MILES a week
 

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There seems to be no real interest in Norton so back to other things.

Today I test the home made distributor which uses a Honeywell hall effect sensor and a Volkswagen ignition module along with a Bosch TCI coil.
It will retain the Fiat 500 distributor cap and Moto Guzzi rotor.

The small cups are only 6.6 mm OD x 5.6 mm ID and 2.6 mm tall to hold the M3 dome heads.
They will get sealed over to avoid any form of magnetic effect on the sensor or trigger paddles.

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