I'm sure none of us will ever forget how to mount the battery tray after this exchange. Glad we got that cleared up though, as the battery tray and z-braces are next - but that's the end of the visually satisfying work for a while.
I need to finish up the MkIII gearbox (needs a few more outer-cover parts before its done). I'm also looking forward to getting the bottom end of the motor together (for which I *only* need conrod bearings, crank shims, a stainless crankcase stud kit, camshaft thrust washers and a main bearing oil seal).
At least fill me in on how to insert a picture in the forum....doing the Photoshop/dreamweaver thing works, but somehow, you guys have done it better. Most likely some small trick I forgot or can't figure out...Good luck with all those upcoming tasks....we all know how it is. I had my carbs out and apart today...cahnged a few small details and it SEEMS to run better, hard to tell on the bike lift...time will tell!
Thanks!
First, you need to have a URL for the picture in question.
I host mine at www.villagephotos.com, but you can use any service you want. If you have your own domain, you can do it there as well.
So, with URL in hand,
- click the "IMG" button in the "Post a reply" toolbar
- insert your picture's URL
- click the "IMG" button once more to close the line of code
So, in my case, the code would look like this: " (img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-12/912954/swivel_foot-adjusters.gif[/img) " Substitute opening and closing parentheses with "[" and "]" brackets.
Correctly done, it translates into this:
(Like my lightened polished rockers with swivelfoot Porshe adjusters?)
I use the personal web space that my ISP provides. Then I just log into their ftp server using an old-fashioned cmd line ftp client. Set binary mode, type in the relevant PUT commands, log out, done. GUI fooie! Not for us geeks
And Dr (BTW I loved the story about Dr and MD - lol) just outlined how it works on this end. Piece of cake...
The battery mounts go on the outside of the frame. This is mine - with new vernier adjusters-
And this is TJ's (his bike is on my site).
I don't think it really matters if the tray is in before you adjust the ISO. The threads are doing the spacing, the compression from the frame on the adjuster threads, keeps the adjuster from moving once set (one hopes).
Phil
(Ok so I'm, a little late & redundant - I didn't see the second page of posts until I posted!)
I have tried this three times now in differece threads...this time it worked, only different was that I didn't use the address for the index, but rather the direct one to the photo......why wouldn't it work to the index, like all other sites do? Will try that again.
nope, didn't work, must be some reason...suppose because it is all in "image" tags...must be, and the index isn't an image, but rather a HTML page. Live and learn!!!
Thanks for all the tips...I'm sure I'm not the only reader that has learned something new today....
If you can handle lacing up a bicycle wheel you can easily adjust the spokes on a Norton wheel. However, I recommend using penetrating oil on the threads and a good spoke wrench. Final tuning is done in pairs, just like a bicyle wheel.
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