Transmission k/s shaft stop & pawl re-tractor plates

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I'm rebuilding a Commando transmission and discovered that the stamped plates that stop the k/s shaft and the other that re-tracts the pawl are pretty beat up. These parts are available along with the revits that retain them, one of which is a perch for the k/s return spring (on the outer side of the cover) the other with a round head sits in a well. I have rebuilt a lot of transmissions, but haven't needed to question the condition of these plates, never mid replace them.

The work looks pretty straight forward, but a misstep could ruin the inner cover. I thought about using a Dremel to smooth the surfaces, but I worry about damaging the surface the k/s shaft butts up with. I'd appreciate guidance from any one that has done this. I am particularly interested in how the new revits are flared; in the past I have used a press and a ball bearing, but the stakes weren't this high. Thanks for your consideration.

Best.
 
I recently had to replace the pawl plate. Drilled out old rivet.
IMG_7989.JPG

I do not have any riveting tools, and was too impatient to wait to acquire them, so I created a little jig that allowed me support the recessed, domed head of the rivet against the anvil of my vise while I used a domed punch to flare the other end.

IMG_8048.JPG

I hollowed out the end of a 7/16" bolt to fit on the dome of the rivet head. The rest of the jig held it in place. If you want more details about how that went together, PM me. Otherwise, I recommend using proper riveting tools.
 
Thanks NickZ.

I don't have pictures, but if I did they would mirror yours.

Did the revits you installed require much persuasion to produce a snug flare?

Best.
 
It didn't take a lot of force, but it was tricky to have the force applied in the right place, and at the correct angle. My end result did not look as good as the original, but the plate was tight. Luckily, it is not seen unless you take the inner cover off.
 
The reason my pawl plate was damaged was because the pawl and the flange of the kickstart shaft were able to slide over the top of the plate. It eventually jammed my kickstart lever at the bottom. When I put the new pawl plate in, I noticed even with the new plate there was not much overlap between the top of the plate and the bottom of the kickstart flange and pawl that it is supposed to retract. Both of my kickstart shaft supporting bushes were loose, which I believe was the main reason that the pawl was able to go over the pawl plate. I replaced them both so that should keep it from happening again (at least for quite a while I hope). I would recommend that when you put the pawl plate back in, you put a spacer or shim under it to make sure the pawl has plenty of overlap with the pawl plate. I would feel much more confidant in my repair if I had done that.
 
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