Which means you must make/buy new hardened studs in 3/8-16 and 26 TPI on the nut side. Or make/buy new nuts.But it is common to use 3/8 UNC when using inserts.
Yes. But they are readily available, from JS and cNw.Which means you must make/buy new hardened studs in 3/8-16 and 26 TPI on the nut side. Or make/buy new nuts.![]()
Thanks for that Les - My friend is about to purchase a threadsert kit for his failing studs. The LH one below the exhaust port will only just accept 20 f/lb.It should be 3/8" - 20 BSF.
"Stud, 3/8″ x 1-7/8″ x 20-26, Cylinder Head"![]()
Only way to be sure is to take the current stud out but that does not change the 3/8 UNC insert with matching stud being the best solution long term although its not factory fit.It is a Fullauto head installed by someone unknown.
Is there any uncertainty that the stud thread that goes into the head is 3/8" BSF?
It is a Fullauto head installed by someone unknown.
The FA cylinder head has the same 20 TPI as stock, we will hope the new US based manufacturer of that head will change the TPI to 16/18 tpi and include three studs to suit.
Thanks Les - so we'll go with 3/8 BSF (not apart yet) and buy/make studs to fit if needed.Is it 20 TPI?
According to Time Warp the Fullauto head thread is 20 TPI...:
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Cylinder head helicoil thread
Hi Ladies & Gents, One of the 2 studs corresponding to numbers 7 and 8 of the tightening sequence is loose in my Combat type head because the thread in the head has been damaged. I plan to fix that by installing an Helicoil insert in the head, but I don't know the size and thread of the side...www.accessnorton.com
Edit, CORRECTION:
...and, as far as I'm aware, the original head and stud upper threads are 55°, 3/8" - 20 BSF (the same part number studs used well before the Commando so unlikely to be 60°, 3/8" 20-UN). Edit: (Incorrect information deleted).
Lead time getting British Helicoils was the issue a few years ago while putting my Vincent motor together. I threaded the case to take a 5/16" UNC Helicoil and made up a new custom stud with a 5/16" BSF outer thread. No worries at all.Thanks Les - so we'll go with 3/8 BSF (not apart yet) and buy/make studs to fit if needed.
Lead time on Threadserts is such that we don't want his bike off the road for that long.
Cheers
Thanks Les - so we'll go with 3/8 BSF (not apart yet) and buy/make studs to fit if needed.
Lead time on Threadserts is such that we don't want his bike off the road for that long.
Cheers
Two of them would go all the way into the exhaust ports - not really an optimal solution.If the three holes were drilled all the way with a 3/8" drill you could use bolts and nuts.
You won't be pulling those out.
Very nice!It might be worth noting, if a 3/8-20 coil insert fails (if a coil is the intention) then what, a Bigsert as the only repair ?
It might be also noted I did not go to the trouble of making tools adapters to torque the cylinder head to fill the day in.
Cranking on those fasteners on a FA with abandon will either pull the threads over time or the nuts/sleeve nuts will have loosened.
View attachment 96711 View attachment 96712
Here's a commercially available tool that does the same thingIt might be worth noting, if a 3/8-20 coil insert fails (if a coil is the intention) then what, a Bigsert as the only repair ?
It might be also noted I did not go to the trouble of making tools adapters to torque the cylinder head to fill the day in.
Cranking on those fasteners on a FA with abandon will either pull the threads over time or the nuts/sleeve nuts will have loosened.
View attachment 96711 View attachment 96712