The Access Norton Velocette Thread

Tornado said:
Today I went through all the grease points with a few fresh pumps. Checked compression, got 90 psi tops. No clue if that is considered fine (bike is 6.8:1 compression ratio...Commando gets 145-155 psi at what, 8.5:1 CR?).

Checked for spark on kick overs...quite feeble little thing compared to commando big fatty. Apparently this is normal for the new EI type BTH Maggie's with an external coil mounted remotely (it's about the size of the flasher relay!). Word is the spark is very high intensity and so gives a very small spark?!?

Tomorrow I'll wheel it out side, pour in some guzzulean and give 'er the beans for first time....
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Might have missed it in the thread but have you checked for oil in crankcase. These bikes wet sump pretty bad.

Check very carefully that no antiwet sump switch or valve is fitted or is if fitted is open. I'm not qualified or experienced to give advice. I just know my friends sometimes fit them but wired into the ignition.
 
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I think Velos fitted some kind of anti sump valve as standard but sometimes they don't work because they are not primed correctly??????

As I say I'm not qualified to advise but have certainly heard Velo fellows discussing this at length. Contact the club perhaps.
 
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johnm said:
Might have missed it in the thread but have you checked for oil in crankcase. These bikes wet sump pretty bad.

Check very carefully that no antiwet sump switch or valve is not fitted or is open. I'm not qualified or experienced to give advice. I just know my friends sometimes fit them but wired into the ignition.
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Some vellocettes have the anti wet sump valve fitted to the oil tank as standard
This is the one that's copied and fitted to commandos
 
johnm said:
I think Velos fitted some kind of anti sump valve as standard but sometimes they don't work because they are not primed correctly??????

As I say I'm not qualified to advise but have certainly heard Velo fellow discussing this at length. Contact the club perhaps.
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Huh, you beat me to it 👍👍
 
johnm said:
I think Velos fitted some kind of anti sump valve as standard but sometimes they don't work because they are not primed correctly??????

As I say I'm not qualified to advise but have certainly heard Velo fellow discussing this at length. Contact the club perhaps.
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Yep
A mate of mine is a full on velo nut
I said to him that these valves are known to fail when fitted to Norton's
Why don't they on velos ?
He said they do!!!
 
Even when the anti wetsumping valve is fitted and updated with the plastic ball, they could wet sump a bit over time.
When fitted it is very important to to use the right procedure when the bike had been drained of oil. To ensure oil pump working. Pump can't suck air.
Though an engine with roller bearings can go some miles before seizing without proper oil feed. A plain bearing crank like a Commando will suffer almost immediately without oil pressure.
Don't know when the valve was introduced.
 
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the EI magneto: they have a vg reputation. However, I would check with the makers about plug caps.
 
johnm said:
Best take the resister caps off. Magnetos work happiest with real wire high tension leads and no resister caps or plugs.
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Sorry. I didn't see the ei in front of BTH.

That may need a resister.
 
Congrats on the new machine !
I balked on importing a bike from Germany last year. Couldn't get answers from the shipper/importer/customs etc. They all wanted their pound of flesh felt like. Anyway glad yours arrived safely.
 
Most velos both pre war and later had the spring loaded ball valve off the tank. On many later bikes. There is verbage on a large decal on outside of tank stating to always prime feed line if it is disturbed (ie disconnected). Book outlines how to confirm oil flow, by loosening a banjo on feed pipe to head until oil is seen to escape.
My bike has the ball valve and a receipt in The paperwork for a new one in 2022.

The BTH website FAQ states running 5k Ohm cap is OK, but in a later section states not to run suppressor plug as this may damage the CDI unit, so seems a bit contradictory to me.
Same FAQ states spark will not appear big/bright as the unit generates such a high intensity spark....again seems like a contradiction no? Says to check for good spark by holding plag 1/4" off cylinder head to see spark jump to head and hear the crack. I tried this yesterday but got nothing...maybe didn't have it near enough? Did see a week spark across plug gap when held against head.

Off to fuel it....
 
Update:
She's Alive!
Took a bit of futzing getting the "procedure" right, but she went right up. Confirmed oil returning.

Was able to do a second start, but still needed a njmber of attempts before joy.

Something is amiss as it will not respond to anything I do with the mk1 premier air mix nor tickler screws. Idling high and will not come down. Started on choke and ran off choke. Applying choke again does affect idle, slows and roughness a bit.
I'd gone through carb thoroughly two days ago and confirmed all passages and idle jets clear.
I'm thinking timing is out?
 
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Of course you know that there is a slack in the cable with throttle released.
 
Mike40M said:
Of course you know that there is a slack in the cable with throttle released.
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There did seem to be some at throttle grip end but will confirm, try adding more slack.
 
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Tornado said:
Update:
She's Alive!
Took a bit of futzing getting the "procedure" right, but she went right up. Confirmed oil returning.

Was able to do a second start, but still needed a njmber of attempts before joy.

Something is amiss as it will not respond to anything I do with the mk1 premier air mix nor tickler screws. Idling high and will not come down. Started on choke and ran off choke. Applying choke again does affect idle, slows and roughness a bit.
I'd gone through carb thoroughly two days ago and confirmed all passages and idle jets clear.
I'm thinking timing is out?
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Sounds like it's pulling air in somewhere
Try spraying some carb cleaner or similar around the inlet manifold
 
Tornado said:
There did seem to be some at throttle grip end but will confirm, try adding more slack.
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Checking throttle cable...has 3 separate adjusters, carb top, near handle bar and at twist grip. All set at max slack, yet negligible free play at grip end of cable. Feeling for throttle slide impact on carb tick over screw when snapping closed, none felt unless screw wound nearly fully in. So seems slide hanging on cable. Took twist grip apart and removed the locknut on the grip adjust threaded bush, giving 3 or 4 more mm of slack. Definitely gives more vontact with tick over screw when threaded well out. Would like to get even more slack but need to pull tank off (fair bit of ball ache) to reach carb top...ill remove adjuster from there.
 
Going to get registered/insured/plated.

Some eye candy prior to first new world start up:

The Access Norton Velocette Thread


The Access Norton Velocette Thread
 
Good looking, decent MSS with some sensible upgrades. A bike for riding, not for rivet counting.
With much luck and a Dremel, I've managed to shorten the outer cable without damaging the inner cable once.
 
getting static from local bureaucracy.
My regular insurance guy, used him for many years, would not proceed unless he witnessed bike. After stating i would push bike from two blocks away to his office he said fine. 30 min later i wheel it into the parking. He then states its an hour process and would not do it today so as not to slow down other customers (there was no one there other than me on nice early Friday afternoon). Said to bring it back tomorrow morning (lines are long on weekends there, always!!). So i said can he at least witness bike now check numbers etc so i dont have to push it there again tomorrow? Answer was no. I left in a huff and will be cancelling my other policies with him.

Called around and found another broker able to proceed with just photos of ID numbers. We get near the end of the process (30 min) and there is an issue. The bill of sale completed by seller in uk does not have signatures. Ok i can get him to resend it signed by email tomorrow. Nope, must be original doc, not a print out. So the piece of paper must fly across ocean it seems. In fact they suggested i first send him thier bill of sale document to sign, send it back and then i sign. So thats two trips across continent and ocean. Of course first step is to confirm the guy is still alive, as we did the transaction in November and he is an oldie. Then confirm he will accommodate the request for a new bill of sale.
ARGH!
 
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