tank liner

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I recently received a cylinder head for repair. One intake valve had stuck open and was bent. It had recently been rebuilt by a reputable shop and ran less than 100 miles. First thing I thought of was tank liner and sure enough the ports had that sticky coating that was impervious to solvent so I called the customer to ask about his fuel tank. He said that was definitely not the problem because he had installed an aluminum tank along with the engine rebuild and the gas was fresh. I instructed him to flush the tank just to be sure.
He got back to me a couple days later with the results. When he flushed the tank he got a small pile of stuff that looked like tank liner. Seems that who-ever had built the tank had used some type of sealant around the fuel fill cap and some seams and it had softened and was floating around in the tank.
Can't say that was the cause but... Jim
 
That happened to me twice. Once after rebuilding the head, i had pressed in the guides too tight and lost clearence. Seems like it was around 50 to 100 miles, maybe less. I bought an adjustable reamer and brought it back to spec. They are available that small. I actually bought 2 sizes. The one started off too big and the other wouldn't reach the spec.

The other time is when the master link came loose on the cam chain. Thank goodness it was idling in the driveway. Continuous chain is now in place.

Hey, Comnoz, congratulations on your 1000th post. I've only 20 to go myself.
 
comnoz said:
I recently received a cylinder head for repair. One intake valve had stuck open and was bent. It had recently been rebuilt by a reputable shop and ran less than 100 miles. First thing I thought of was tank liner and sure enough the ports had that sticky coating that was impervious to solvent so I called the customer to ask about his fuel tank. He said that was definitely not the problem because he had installed an aluminum tank along with the engine rebuild and the gas was fresh. I instructed him to flush the tank just to be sure.
He got back to me a couple days later with the results. When he flushed the tank he got a small pile of stuff that looked like tank liner. Seems that who-ever had built the tank had used some type of sealant around the fuel fill cap and some seams and it had softened and was floating around in the tank.
Can't say that was the cause but... Jim

Interestingly enough here in the UK there are now several people selling tank lining products, none of which have been properly tested in real world conditions, but all of which are 100% resistant to ethanol fuels!

It seems those selling this rubbish feel that buyers of this type of product are all extremely gullible, and not concerned that tanks are often ruined completely after this snake oil has been used.
 
Ugh! Ambushed from all sides. Didn't trust their welding enough to leave it raw?
Past posts alone these lines has made me search up SS tank, ugh. Is there a level of fuel filtering that could have prevented, minimized, or alerted to impending damage in this type case? Ignoring any pre-existing guide issue of course.
 
Could the people that make the Andover replacment tanks, swap in SS in the presses? I think that would be the ultimate solution. Should be easy enough to do. There are different grades of SS, i'm sure one would be suited to stamping and welding.
 
Stainless steel is not ideal for motorcycle tank manufacture, and is not comparable to aluminuim. The big problem with bike tanks seems to be that many of those who see that there is a quick profit to be made here, dont have the required skill to make tanks that are fit for purpose, and this leads to alloy tanks which leak without resin liners, and GRP tanks which rot when Efuels are used! A guy I know is making MotoGP tanks out of 1mm alloy sheet, they dont leak, and are not sealed with resin!
 
An austenitic stainless steel is very formable and would make an excellent tank. No, it's not comparable to aluminum, but it's likely more formable than the LC steel that the original steel tanks were made from. Very weldable, and completely unaffected by ethanol and condensed water (take a tour through a brewery and take note of what the tanks there are made from.)

It would be an excellent tank material...until material cost is factored into the equation. It's not really suitable for cottage-industry manufacturing, either -- you're not going to hand make a tank with a peening hammer over a form. So it takes a double hit for both material cost and manufacturing cost.
 
I have a fiberglass tank which seems already sealed, but I don't feel safe and I would like to reseal it again:

now the people of British Cycle Supply who have been very helpful with me, suggested to use the Caswell Gas Tank Sealer
(PHENOL NOVOLAC EPOXY GAS TANK SEALER) which seems ok for resealing and doing miracles.

Anyone has already used this before? Any comment on this? :?:

Thank you! :D
 
In view of the hundreds of posts addressing the fiberglass tanks, my advice would be to shelve it if you are using ethanol laced fuel. Seems that its only a matter of time before all liners fail, making a real mess of the carbs. A couple of years ago I had to address the fiberglass/ethanol issue. I went with an aluminum tank and I doubt I'll ever have to address the tank situation ever again.
 
JimC said:
In view of the hundreds of posts addressing the fiberglass tanks, my advice would be to shelve it if you are using ethanol laced fuel. Seems that its only a matter of time before all liners fail, making a real mess of the carbs. A couple of years ago I had to address the fiberglass/ethanol issue. I went with an aluminum tank and I doubt I'll ever have to address the tank situation ever again.

I am sure you are quite right: where would you suggest to buy a tank closest to the original? I know the 'indian' tanks are not very good..
 
I have a steel tank that has some kind of liner in it that looks brown in color. Any ideas what brand it might be?

Russ
 
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