Starting problems- again

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With reference to my original Won't start post a week ago
After posting that my bike started right up and idled at 750rpm, I took it out for a test ride.
It ran well under full throttle and idled well but anything in between it sputtered and missed and died a couple times.
As I said I have boiled the carbs and probed the pilot jet orifice with piano wire. So I decided to go back to the stock setup and see how it ran.
I took the 220 main and 106 pilot jet out and replaced them with the 230 and 107 that it had originally.
Needle clip is in the middle position. Now it either won't start or starts and runs very erratic- backfire and no idle or dies.
I also replaced the throttles slides with new ones from Baxter- #3 throttle valves. My carbs are 930 amals with an H300 under the 930 on the side of the carb.
My Haynes manual says that up to 1/8 throttle is controlled by the pilot jet setting which I presume is the numbers of turns out and not the pilot jet number like a 107 or 106- correct?
1/8 to 1/4 by throttle valve cutaway, 1/4 to 3/4 by needle position and full throttle by the main jet.
I can't really be sure if I'm having problems at 1/8 or 1/4 throttle, but whichever throttle position you would be at if you are cruising at 60mph and upwards of that so I'm guessing it's needle position.
I want to change one thing at a time this time so I identify the source of my problem. Where would you suggest I start?
Needle position, pilot jet or main jet?
I want to get some input from the forum before I go chasing my tail again. I am really confused since when I got it started and it idled so smooth I thought I had the problem licked.
THX
Bruce
 
Have you tried JBA's tuning? http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html When I got mine together enough to start last week, I set the idle pilot just like JBA says, 1 1/2 turns out. I didn't get any results, and I had reset the new stay up float to 0.08" below the bowl top, so I put it back where it was originally, just below the top of the bowl. It started right up and throttle response is good, I haven't had it on the road yet. You might want to play with the float setting. I'm not convinced my resetting the float was a result of starting though, because I hooked up a battery in the meantime, and that most likely made a big difference and it won't start without a battery even now, I need to try the 0.08" below again. Make sure you have the slides synchronized like JBA says to do and find the point where the idle adjustments just touch the slides. I find his instructions better than the workshop manual.

Are you sure it's not an electrical problem? There is really not much you can do to the carbs beside adjusting the idle and changing jets.

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
Have you tried JBA's tuning? http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html When I got mine together enough to start last week, I set the idle pilot just like JBA says, 1 1/2 turns out. I didn't get any results, and I had reset the new stay up float to 0.08" below the bowl top, so I put it back where it was originally, just below the top of the bowl. It started right up and throttle response is good, I haven't had it on the road yet. You might want to play with the float setting. I'm not convinced my resetting the float was a result of starting though, because I hooked up a battery in the meantime, and that most likely made a big difference and it won't start without a battery even now, I need to try the 0.08" below again. Make sure you have the slides synchronized like JBA says to do and find the point where the idle adjustments just touch the slides. I find his instructions better than the workshop manual.

Are you sure it's not an electrical problem? There is really not much you can do to the carbs beside adjusting the idle and changing jets.

Dave
Yes I'm going to ck the spark again. That's the good thing about the Tri Spark, the LED lets you see if you're getting spark to the ignition.
THX
 
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