Shop suggestions for Layshaft bearing replacement

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I'm in South East PA and am looking to have the layshaft bearing replaced in my MKIII. Anyone have any suggestions for a good shop to take it to?

I'm not certain I want to tackle it myself, and the one shop I contacted months ago for an estimate never called me back after he told me he'd call me in a "week or two" to have me bring it in. I'm doing a "rolling resto" on it this winter and want it ready for the spring riding season, not sitting around waiting for someone to "get to it".

thanks,
Rich
 
Unless you are taking the entire bike to the shop you will do most of the work yourself. Dismantling the primary is the difficult part. The gearbox is quite straight forward and easy to work on. Depending on the case, the bearing may come out easily ( without removing the gearbox from the bike).

Greg
 
I will echo what Greg said...

If you are competent enough to take the primary drive off, you can do the layshaft bearing yourself. I just had mine done. The President of my Local club did it for me as I hovered over his shoulder. Not hard. Just pay attention to what you are taking out and put it back in the same way. :-) I think that there is a mick hemmings DVD for the gearbox too. That would walk you through it. You should be able to do it in a few hours.
 
Greg I think you can do the job without removing the primary. On a friend's machine with beers so a little foggy but just dive into the box gutting as much as possible and the trick was getting underneath with a heat gun and roast the area of the bearing from the outside then a curved pick to remove then the frozen outer of new bearing was gently tapped in squarely home, didn't need much persuasion at all. Many years back, took about 4 hrs. start to finish ?
 
I've considered doing it myself with the box still in the bike, but everytime I look at all the stuff that needs to come off (footrest, rear brake MC, etc.) I get second thoughts. plus the fact that I don't have all the special tools to get it apart.
 
I'm sure there is a forum member close that would be more than happy to help you.
 
Read the tech article for gearbox on the Old Britt's website. It is a little bit of a challenge to heat the gearbox enough to drive in the new roller layshaft bearing. If it does not seat fully there will be clearance issues later. You only need the clutch tool and the wren,ch to loosen/tighten the clutch actuator. Having a helper during the heating part is a good thing.
Mike
 
That's right ,you can do it with a friend or nearby forum member and save yourself a whack of dough to put towards insurance and beers for you both or more. We can all walk you through the whole procedure and feel proud in the end plus it'd be fun too. So download the Britts pages ,order in the bearing ( or get it from a bearing house and save a bit more )and gaskets. Have that camera and computer ready for us. That's what we're here for ,to save you money and have fun. :)
 
Thanks for the encouragement, I'll mull it over while I wait for the temp in the garage to rise to an acceptable level.
 
davecox2 said:
I'm actually getting ready to do this myself, so I'll be following this thread closely! Quick question, I was looking on eBay for the bearing. Is the the correct one to use:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Norton-ball-Bea ... 17&vxp=mtr

If you've decided to fit the ball bearing upgrade (instead of the roller bearing upgrade) then the recommended item is the FAG 6203TB:

DogT said:
Shop suggestions for Layshaft bearing replacement
 
Just do it, it's not a hard job, if I can do it anyone can, I just rebuilt my mate's gear box, just took my time and do what the manual tell you to do and you can't go wrong, I rebuilt my gear box over 33 years ago and its still going good to this day but have replaced the kick start pawl 4 times now.

Ashley
 
vuuduu21 said:
I've considered doing it myself with the box still in the bike, but everytime I look at all the stuff that needs to come off (footrest, rear brake MC, etc.) I get second thoughts. plus the fact that I don't have all the special tools to get it apart.

They are all just pieces held together with bolts. Nothing fancy, just take your time. For tools it is good to have a clutch compressor, but we McGivered one on the road with a big bearing race ( FWD car drive axle), a bar with a hole in it, and a 1/2-20 nut. Judicious use a of a punch and a hammer will get the clutch actuator locknut free. These are not complicated bikes. I'm not sure about not getting the mainshaft out of the way, but in case you have not noticed, there are differences of opinion here. However, no one would steer you wrong. Go for it. Worst case, you have to take it to the shop.

Greg
 
ps Be sure that the clutch cable has a straight pull on the actuator lever when you put it together and the little ball in there is in the right place.

Greg
 
Thanks all for the advice and encouragement.

I ordered the bearing and seal kit this morning.

Let the adventure begin!
 
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