Rust sediment in tank.

On the list of things to do is to sort the rust sediment in my roadster tank. I have a new set of Premier's ready to bolt in, but there's no way they're going on until this gets sorted.

Not a great pic, but you get the idea...



I'm liking the kit from Tank Care Products https://www.tankcareproducts.co.uk/ and I'm aware there are others available (Caswell, Tapox, Slosh etc), but I also hear (read) comments that sealer ruins the tank.

What say the wisdom of the forum?

Compared to my tank after 15 years of storage that looks almost perfect. I'd give some really good flush outs and check the filters on the taps and use it as is. If your ready concerned add some inline filters to the pipes.

Almost as above, personally I wouldn’t coat it, I’d clean it as good as I could, but I would definitely fit in line filters.

Thanks chaps.

I think I was swayed by tank sealing from the Norman White book.

I cleaned the tap filters the day after I got it, as soon as I knew it wasn't running right. They were minging. I thought I'd got the tank clean, but it's clearly not quite there yet. The tap filters were pretty crappy again. Inline filters sound like a good plan.

What are you guys using for cleaning/flushing the tank out?

Your in the UK so different product to here. I went to a motor supplies type place and they had a rust flushing product. I got 10 litres I think. Some people use vinegar. They are usually water based so flush straight after with petrol or some kind of petroleum product. Dry out with an airhose.

I did use POR 15 to seal my tank and they have a full line of products to clean flush and seal. It has worked fine for the past 5 years with ethanol gas. You have to be 200 % careful following the instructions.

But for the amount of rust your showing I wouldn't seal if it were my tank.

I expect you will get advice from people in the UK on products.

Like Fast Eddie, but I wouldn't bother with inline fuel filters - the filters in the banjos are enough, IMHO. I would clean them out after the first 2-3 rides.

Here in USA there is a product called Vaporust. It will remove rust but not hurt paint. Works very well

mean gene said:

Here in USA there is a product called Vaporust. It will remove rust but not hurt paint. Works very well

Click to expand...

Evaporust, yes very good stuff. Does not remove paint or metal.
Jaydee

johnm said:

Your in the UK so different product to here. I went to a motor supplies type place and they had a rust flushing product. I got 10 litres I think. Some people use vinegar. They are usually water based so flush straight after with petrol or some kind of petroleum product. Dry out with an airhose.

I did use POR 15 to seal my tank and they have a full line of products to clean flush and seal. It has worked fine for the past 5 years with ethanol gas. You have to be 200 % careful following the instructions.

But for the amount of rust your showing I wouldn't seal if it were my tank.

I expect you will get advice from people in the UK on products.

Click to expand...

I too used vinegar for cleaning, and followed up with POR 15,
Really happy with the results, but only carried out this process at the start of this year,
So no long term report from me,
The POR 15 treatment ain't cheap, but it appears to be a quality product,
And as Johnm says the instructions have to be followed to the letter, No shortcuts!

I can't see NW recommending sealing a tank due to some iron 'dust.

Only a borescope will show you what is lurking inside the tank.
I have Evaporust ($93 a gallon) but electrolysis is probably the best method but time and equipment dependant.

A bit of dust might only need kerosene, nuts and bolts along with playing 'I go to Rio a half dozen times.

I recommend a simple, inexpensive and very effective solution that will remove the rust and give you some low impact exercise.

Get yourself a pound of BBs or if that is illegal or requires too ma permits, get a larger weight of .177 ball bearings as well a a quart or liter mineral spirits.

Drain the tank, seal the petcock bungs , add the .177 spheres and about 1/4 of the mineral spirits, put on your favorite fast paced dance music and dance for about 15 minutes. The tank and content aren't too heavy so add a dance partner if you like.

When time is up, drain the tank through a strainer, to catch the .177s and have a catch container for the mineral spirits. keep up this routine until the mineral spirits exits clear. In your case I doubt you'll be dancing for any length of time.

USE fuel filters ! 70 micron inline filters are readily available. I tried to find the micron rating for the petcock and bango screens, but had no luck. The inline filters that are "E" proof for your turf are easy to replace, easy to check for softness. For those of you that are still riding on original ,OE prtcocks be advised that they use cork as a seal. There are kits available with modern "E" resistant rubber seals, Yada, yada.

I would keep the screens on the petcocks, if not junk, just to keep dead bugs, cigarette butts, and construction equipment stays out of the fuel line.. The screens in the banjos perform the functions of filtering and sealing the banjo. When they ave been subject to over torquing they neither seal or filter, they are not easy to remove, in situ) and the banjo bolt speeds the degradation process by cross threading. Yada, yada.

Your choice,

Best

"Get yourself a pound of BBs or if that is illegal or requires too ma permits, get a larger weight of .177 ball bearings"

I've always used a double handful of sheetrock screws. They work great and you can use them later for whatever.

Thanks for sharing your wisdom folks.

I'd rather avoid sealing if poss, so I'll concentrate on the cleaning/flushing. I watched the white vinegar method on YT and it seems easy enough and with good results. I'm perhaps concerned about it flash rusting again without some kind of sealer.

5L of Evaporust ordered!

It's reusable, so don't dump it out after one gas tank!

mean gene said:

It's reusable, so don't dump it out after one gas tank!

Click to expand...

Yep, got loads of old rusty Imperial spanner to bring back to life

MexicoMike said:

I've always used a double handful of sheetrock screws. They work great and you can use them later for whatever.

Click to expand...

If the question of what to put in your tank to clean it came up on the game show "Family Fued" as the # 1 response, but I still won't use them; each to his/her/it preference...

Best

Using Bonzo's link to Thompsons Ltd, the instructions for using Evaporust include this statement:

• 'Ensure the item is fully submerged in the solution to avoid etching around the tide line.'

This begs the obvious question - how do you prevent creating conditions for etching inside the tank unless you buy sufficient Evaporust to fill the tank? It sounds like it would be a bit pricey to treat an Interstate tank!

A similar-sounding product which ought to be more cost effective could be this - https://cwylde.co.uk/product/flowliner-biorust-rust-remover/

The supplier states:
FLOWLINER Bio-Rust rust remover is a safe none toxic bio-degradable product that will remove light to very heavy rust from ferrous metals and steel. The Bio-Rust does this without damaging the item, unlike blasting, acid dips or grinding. FLOWLINER BIO-RUST is Ideal for the removal of rust from motorcycle parts, car parts and petrol tanks prior to using a PETROLTANK COATING or paints.

The FLOWLINER BIO-RUST 1000 gram kit will make up to a 20 litres of dipping or pouring solution.

oldschool said:

Using Bonzo's link to Thompsons Ltd, the instructions for using Evaporust include this statement:

• 'Ensure the item is fully submerged in the solution to avoid etching around the tide line.'

This begs the obvious question - how do you prevent creating conditions for etching inside the tank unless you buy sufficient Evaporust to fill the tank? It sounds like it would be a bit pricey to treat an Interstate tank!

A similar-sounding product which ought to be more cost effective could be this - https://cwylde.co.uk/product/flowliner-biorust-rust-remover/

The supplier states:
FLOWLINER Bio-Rust rust remover is a safe none toxic bio-degradable product that will remove light to very heavy rust from ferrous metals and steel. The Bio-Rust does this without damaging the item, unlike blasting, acid dips or grinding. FLOWLINER BIO-RUST is Ideal for the removal of rust from motorcycle parts, car parts and petrol tanks prior to using a PETROLTANK COATING or paints.

The FLOWLINER BIO-RUST 1000 gram kit will make up to a 20 litres of dipping or pouring solution.

Click to expand...

I assume Thompsons Ltd is a seller throwing in their two cents. Evaporust does not etch anything in my experience. I do fill tanks to the brim when there is rust everywhere and it is somewhat expensive the first time, but then I've done five or six and keep reusing it. When there's only rust in the bottom, I only put in enough to cover the rust.

Where minor rust is concerned, I have had really good results with simple vinegar. I'm not a fan of tank liners/sealers in general, but there is a readily available, relatively cheap material called Red Kote that is very easy to use, I've had great results with it.

In the case of rust sediment, I wonder if placing a strong neodymium magnet inside the tank near each fuel tap would work in collecting the sediment over time? You could periodically remove the magnets and inspect them for sediment. If you have never used neodymium magnets, they are powerful to the point of being dangerous.