RGM fork stanchion top nut with filler plug

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robs ss said:
You'd wonder why those nuts were not part of the kit the OP posted?
Very poor photo - maybe they are? Not!
Click to expand...

Yes, it's the bottom view of the cap nut,
RGM fork stanchion top nut with filler plug
 
Chris Zet said:
Hello Bonzo! I put this fork stanchion nuts kit from RGM on my bike last year.... rode est. 10k km with this kit. All works fine. I like the look and all the parts got very good quality. Refill the oil isn`t that much faster with this kit....it also takes some time. But: it is easier. there is just this little slotted brass nuts to detach...the clocks stay in place. so less work. chris
RGM fork stanchion top nut with filler plug
Click to expand...
Chris - a (very slight) derail - would you mind posting (or PM) photos of your fairing and details of where you got it?
Cheers!
(sorry @Bonzo !)
 
Chris Zet said:
Hello Bonzo! I put this fork stanchion nuts kit from RGM on my bike last year.... rode est. 10k km with this kit. All works fine. I like the look and all the parts got very good quality. Refill the oil isn`t that much faster with this kit....it also takes some time. But: it is easier. there is just this little slotted brass nuts to detach...the clocks stay in place. so less work. chris
Click to expand...

Does the lower nut and bush remain in situ because, without an internal thread in the cap nut, there's no way to lock the damper rod with only the special upper nut?
RGM fork stanchion top nut with filler plug
 
Chris Zet said:
Hello Bonzo! I put this fork stanchion nuts kit from RGM on my bike last year.... rode est. 10k km with this kit. All works fine. I like the look and all the parts got very good quality. Refill the oil isn`t that much faster with this kit....it also takes some time. But: it is easier. there is just this little slotted brass nuts to detach...the clocks stay in place. so less work. chris
RGM fork stanchion top nut with filler plug
Click to expand...
Chris, thanks for that 👍

I haven't touched the forks yet, and so didn't know how much hassle an oil change would be, hence my question on how much value this kit offers and how it looks in situ.

You've answered those questions - much appreciated.

*edit - meant to say, nice bike too 👍
 
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I made stainless fork nuts with a fill set up years ago . Nobody seemed that interested at the time but they worked well. I used stainless caps to close off the holes after filling .One hole let air out and the other you put the oil in.They were off centre to clear the threaded centre hole for the threaded spring top.It took awhile to fill but you can finally leave the instruments alone.
 
L.A.B. said:
Does the lower nut and bush remain in situ because, without an internal thread in the cap nut, there's no way to lock the damper rod with only the special upper nut?
RGM fork stanchion top nut with filler plug
Click to expand...
Hi LAB, you just hold the damper rod in situ with the female grub screw/sleeve nut. It`s easy to fit. the thread length above the nut should be adjusted as given in the manual from the kit. me thinking 12mm or so....then you install and tighten the top fork nut with the special tool which is also part of the kit. next you put the grub screw on the damper rod and tighten it with a large screwdriver. Don`t use loctite or any other thread locker. Fill in fork oil.....put in the brass nut with somes smear of silicone and you are ready.
 
Chris Zet said:
Hi LAB, you just hold the damper rod in situ with the female grub screw/sleeve nut. It`s easy to fit. the thread length above the nut should be adjusted as given in the manual from the kit. me thinking 12mm or so....
Click to expand...

Thanks. My question was whether the original thin nut and 'bush' (pictured) remain in position on the damper rod.

"12mm thread length above the nut" suggests it/they do as that would be the approximate length of thread remaining above the nut.
 
L.A.B. said:
Thanks. My question was whether the original thin nut and 'bush (pictured) remain in position on the damper rod.

"12mm" suggests it/they do as that would be the approximate length of thread remaining above the nut.
Click to expand...
yes, they stay in place. without them it wouldn`t work.....you couldnt adjust the length of the thread without the nut and the rod will pierce through the top fork nut at the first bump without the nut.
 
Chris Zet said:
yes, they stay in place. without them it wouldn`t work.....you couldnt adjust the length of the thread without the nut and the rod will pierce through the top fork nut at the first bump without the nut.
Click to expand...

Thanks. That's what I thought, as another member was under the impression that the lower nut was removed which didn't make sense to me.
 
Seriously though - it is always worth checking the numbers on the side. I have found errors up to 20%
Remember - 100ml of water always equals 100g (I know - except tip of Everest!:rolleyes:)
 
I changed the oil in my 1957 short Roadholders today, using a 60 ml syringe with a piece of PVC aquarium hose jammed onto it.

Eventually I realised it was simpler to discard the plunger and just fill the syringe barrel to a marked level and let it drain down into the fork leg.
 
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