Refilling front stanchions that have Landsdowne front end.

Not too long ago there was a post about refilling forks and someone posted some pictures of filling a fork tube that had Landsdowne innards. I have tried to find that post as I need to do that same thing, but cannot find it. Any help on finding that post, or other suggestions to facilitate that task would be appreciated. Thank you.

Suggestion, contact the current maker for the installation instructions. Or just search for a thread discussing the installation. After draining, the refilling is surely no different to the first filling!

SteveA said:

Suggestion, contact the current maker for the installation instructions. Or just search for a thread discussing the installation. After draining, the refilling is surely no different to the first filling!

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Current instructions to refill a stanchion tube with Landsdowne insert is to remove the handle bars and back the Landsdowne insert out far enough to pour the oil down the springs. I did see one post where someone did it differently, by removing the adjustment bolt. That is the post I have been unable to find.

Don Pender's instructions courtesy of another post by our own madass140 (https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/lansdowne-dampers.24928):

use 10w oil
Lansdowne Fork Dampers – Instructions.
Page | 1
Thank you for purchasing the John Bould designed Lansdowne Fork Dampers. I have secured the rights to continue manufacturing these and I'm sure John would be pleased that the results of his efforts will continue on for a long time, to the benefit of the Norton motorcycle community.
FITTING INSTRUCTIONS - Basically it’s a case of out with the old and in with the new, some notes:
 John was always very adamant that it was essential to have fork sliders in good condition, to the extent that worn sliders would not make the Lansdowne dampers work as they should and in fact could make the situation worse. So it’s imperative to have sliders in near perfect condition.
 It’s possible to remove the old damper assemblies and fit the Lansdowne's without removing the lower sliders but it’s important to start off with clean parts so removing the slider makes cleaning internally easier plus simplifies the removal of the damper tube fibre washer and gives a chance to replace fork seals.
 I fitted the Lansdowne dampers to my own Commando without removing the sliders, a bit tricky to fish out the old fibre washer in the bottom, (a new fibre washer is included with your new dampers).
 DO NOT mix up the top fork nuts (bolts) on the Lansdownes.
 DO NOT adjust or remove the brass needle valve in the fork nut (bolt).
 DO NOT use a 3/16" allen key to tighten the new damper tube retaining bolt, use a 5mm allen key.
 DO NOT remove the fork spring retaining nut on the new Lansdownes, (the new Lansdownes come with new standard fork springs).
 DO NOT remove the fork springs.
 Fit the new dampers as they are supplied to you.
 So, assuming your sliders are fitted, remove the top alloy fork nut (bolt) with the brass needle valve attached, the alloy fork nut (bolt) is supplied only hand tight.
 Be careful not to lose the small needle valve spring when removing the top fork nut, its located underside of the fork nut.
 Fit the new damper assembly with new fibre washer attached in to the fork assembly.
 Fit and tighten the damper tube retaining screw with alloy washer using 5mm allen key (not supplied).
 Push up slider so fork spring is protruding through the top yoke 3" or so.
 Slowly pour in 150ml of fork oil.
 Fit top fork nut (with speedo/Tacho and washer) and tighten against fork spring retaining nut (17mm open end spanner) and use a 12" adjustable wrench or 1-3/8" open end spanner to tighten the fork nut (bolt).
 Repeat procedure for other side.
 Fit wheel, brakes, fender etc.
 With front brake applied pump the forks about 10 times to prime the dampers.
 Now and only now you can adjust the brass needle valves with the 2.5mm allen key (supplied).
 The fork nuts are supplied with the needle valves adjusted 3 turns out, this is to aid in priming the dampers.
 With the 2.5mm allen key rotate clockwise the Compression (C) needle valve approximately 3 turns until it bottoms out, DO NOT force it, you will know when it bottoms out.
 Adjust the needle valve anticlockwise about 1 to 1-1/4 turns and then pump the forks with the front brake applied, you will feel the dampening effect at work.
 Adjust it out or in about 1/4 turn at a time to get a feel of the dampening effect.
 When you think it’s somewhere near ok then repeat the same procedure to the Rebound (R) side.
Lansdowne Fork Dampers – Instructions.
Page | 2
 I found the rebound side initial setting to be somewhere around 1/4 turn out to start with. The
rebound side seems to be more affected with smaller adjustments.
 Now with small allen key kept handy start riding and adjusting the dampers to your liking,
remember only make the smallest adjustments.
You are done. I can always be contacted madass140@gmail.com
Remember, I am not the expert on Lansdowne dampers, I am only the manufacturer and Norton nut.
There is much discussion on the Lansdownes over the years on accessnorton.com and its worthwhile
doing some research there, I'm sure many of you already have
Don

Post #6

2WheelsUp said:

Post #6

Different way to change fork oil

Was helping a mate change fork oil on this MK3 850 and decided to do it a bit differently, The advantage with this method is you will have the ability to assess the condition of the "wearing bits" (alloy caps, etc) of the damper, something that is difficult to do with springs installed. He...

www.accessnorton.com

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Thanks, this is the post I looking for. This method looks easier than the alternative, which is to loosen the top nut so that you can shove the spring mechanism out of the tube, after removing the handlebars for clearance.

Don’t know if this is how to post a link or if it will help but it worked for me.

jamesp said:

Thanks, this is the post I looking for. This method looks easier than the alternative, which is to loosen the top nut so that you can shove the spring mechanism out of the tube, after removing the handlebars for clearance.

View attachment 111894

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That’s how I just did mine, much easier and cleaner than pouring it down the springs.

The link: https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/different-way-to-change-fork-oil.32059/
contains about 6 or 7 different methods. Which one is everybody agreeing with?

Interbak said:

That’s how I just did mine, much easier and cleaner than pouring it down the springs.

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I asked Don Pender about it, and he did not think it was a good idea, but wasn’t really sure. Did you just take the allen screw out and pour the oil in? I imagine you had to keep track of the number of turns in order to get the adjustment back to where it was again. Can you share any other details? Thanks.

suitably heating the oil makes things faster

jamesp said:

I asked Don Pender about it, and he did not think it was a good idea, but wasn’t really sure. Did you just take the allen screw out and pour the oil in? I imagine you had to keep track of the number of turns in order to get the adjustment back to where it was again. Can you share any other details? Thanks.

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Yes, I removed the adjuster rod and fill through the hole, I can‘t see how it could hurt anything. I used a graduated cylinder to slowly pour in the recommended amount of 10W oil. I wasn’t totally happy with my adjustments when I started so I replaced the oil and went through the set up routine from scratch. It’s winter here in Canada, final tuning will have to wait for a few months.

Interbak said:

Yes, I removed the adjuster rod and fill through the hole, I can‘t see how it could hurt anything. I used a graduated cylinder to slowly pour in the recommended amount of 10W oil. I wasn’t totally happy with my adjustments when I started so I replaced the oil and went through the set up routine from scratch. It’s winter here in Canada, final tuning will have to wait for a few months.

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Thank you.