rear brake maintenance

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maylar

maylar

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I haven't been into the rear drum brake on my 850 in years, so while the wheel is off I figure I'll do some maintenance. New shoes and slippers are on order. Are there any standard things to-do while in there, or is it just a matter of cleaning and greasing stuff? It works... poorly as designed... but it works.
 
Re-pack the bearings or replace with sealed bearings
inspect Cush rubbers and replace if needed
maylar said:
I haven't been into the rear drum brake on my 850 in years, so while the wheel is off I figure I'll do some maintenance. New shoes and slippers are on order. Are there any standard things to-do while in there, or is it just a matter of cleaning and greasing stuff? It works... poorly as designed... but it works.
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RGM sell a set of what they describe as higher performance brake shoes.

www.rgmnorton.co.uk

RGM REAR BRAKE SHOES, HIGH FRICTION MZ GOLD

HIGH FRICTION MZ GOLD BRAKE SHOES MZ BRAKE SHOES RGM NORTON
www.rgmnorton.co.uk

I have recently fitted to my bike and find them a real improvement over the standard linings.

However they do require work to fit. I found that they did not fit inside the drum and had to skim them to fit in a lath. This is good practice for brakes anyway.

Personally I also fit at least two rivits on the trailing end of each lining. This is because I have had bonded linings come off. Which is no fun.

This is not uncommon especially on bikes that are stored in damp conditions.
 
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+1 on the MZ Gold shoes from RGM. First time my rear brake has had power in 35 years.

But they fit mine fine. Just used some sandpaper taped inside the drum to bed them in a la DogT
 
Used same shoes same sandpaper routine. I cannot say the brakes worked any better. BUT I have rearsets and the rear brake lever has limited lever advantage so that could be a significant amount of the problem.
 
Is there a thread here that discusses the sandpaper procedure?
 
I have tried the sandpaper route on the front brake and did not find much improvement. And that is after installing the stiffening kit and a steel bushing in the brake plate to reduce the axle clearance to .002. I also tried flipping the levers on the brake plate to get a better angle and that showed some improvement. Perhaps the the lever on the rear brake plate is extended beyond the center point?
 
When I reassemble the rear brake components, I often find the rear brake is not as effective as it was before I went in. This is despite thorough workshop practices, lubing pivot points, prepping the shoes and drum surfaces, standing on the brake lever to center the shoes, etc etc. I am convinced the design is so sloppy that you never get the components back to exactly where they were last time and partial contact between the shoes and drum frequently results. And it takes riding time for the shoes to bed/conform to the drum in their new position. Anybody else had this experience?
 
Stephen Hill said:
I am convinced the design is so sloppy that you never get the components back to exactly where they were last time and partial contact between the shoes and drum frequently results. And it takes riding time for the shoes to bed/conform to the drum in their new position. Anybody else had this experience?
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Every time I adjust rear chain slack this happens.
 
maylar said:
Is there a thread here that discusses the sandpaper procedure?
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Commando Rear Brake Drum Advice

Hi All Writing here from work which isn't against the rules as I'm self employed - trying to deal with the guilt of slacking. So far, so good. My query may be stupid so please be gentle... I have a '74 Roadster whose rear brake drum needs some attention. In my old place, the garage was very...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
maylar said:
Every time I adjust rear chain slack this happens.
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Hence the advisement to stand on the brake lever while tightening the brake side axle nut. This squares the brake shoe to the drum
(as much as this antiquated brake system can be accept). Beyond that it is about bedding in the shoe to the drum. Those with a deep
pocket might send the entire kit to Vintage Brake for even better performance. I've had no problem locking up my rear brake by standing
hard on it in an emergency situation. Yes it is a shitty brake designed as a "helper". Real braking power is at the front wheel. If you want
to race, upgrade everything. Otherwise be happy working country back roads and avoiding urban traffic.
 
Half way through the cam bush, there is also a grove around the cam to allow the lubricant to travel the full circumference
Care must be taken at there is No inner or outer seal so if excessive grease is pumped in there is the tick of the grease getting onto the shoes
 
I actually used #80 paper. But I got the idea from someone else years ago. I think it was norbsa. It was originally here broken link removed
but maybe someone can find that.
 
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DogT said:
I actually used #80 paper. But I got the idea from someone else years ago. I think it was norbsa. It was originally here Broken link removed
but maybe someone can find that.
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Still won't run...

I need to win the lottery and retire from my job to keep working on my Norton!!! The plastic tube to check the float level sounds like a really good idea. Unfortunately my float bowls don't have drain plugs. So I took one bowl off, hooked up the fuel line and watched it fill up while I held...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
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Yeah, that's where I got it. Notice that was in 2004, sixteen years ago.
 
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