Racing 2021

Chris

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Hi Steve's when I got mine I had problems with them fouling the fork legs. Mr Emerys advice was "they all do that! You have to lock up the floating disc & file the forks legs if the buttons still rub" I was speechless the set up costs a bomb & then you take a file to new parts!
They work well but a Bob Smith write up said he used to warp them on a regular basis. I think they made up solid ones.
 
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Hi Steve's when I got mine I had problems with them fouling the fork legs. Mr Emerys advice was "they all do that! You have to lock up the floating disc & file the forks legs if the buttons still rub" I was speechless the set up costs a bomb & then you take a file to new parts!
They work well but a Bob Smith write up said he used to warp them on a regular basis. I think they made up solid ones.
Hey Chris, I had similar problems. If I remember It's just a matter of snubbing up the disc retainer screws and making sure the washers are seated correctly in the recess. I also think there are two sorts of everything, if you mix and match it can cause problems, particularly the dished disc back plate. I think Andover do two types. Whichever there is not a lot of clearance, even calipers to spokes is close!
Also just for the avoidance of doubt re. my earlier post, I am doing up the disc retaining fasteners tight, just either tight or really tight (and with locktite). Its all in like an 1/8th of a turn and also the discs do not move on the splines, they are held hard by the screws. It just seems there is a sweet spot between tight and really tight for each of the fasteners. Anyway will have a go with Ralph's suggested method.
 
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But the disc IS supposed to moved on the splines isn’t it?
I don't see how it is possible (as in easily). I thought that originally, somewhere I read it described as self aligning rather than floating, so I guess the plan is they move with some mechanical force (disc fasteners), they just don't rattle about like floaters. If I was to make a guess, the dished disc back plates act as a spring.
 

Chris

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Steve's your right the spring is supposed to tension the "floating/self aligning" aspect. On the Isle of Man page they reported they had a death where a racer had machined this up in alloy? to save a smidgen of weight. Not understanding how it works. Not the place to have something fail.
I have never seen a pair of plain Norvil discs for sale only ever seen them on bikes.
 

storm42

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I think the disc retainers provide a location for the disc that is alined to the wheel / disc carrier surface, the tin dish that holds the disc against the retainers isn't that strong and I believe it would allow the disc to move if necessary. when new, the dish does a reasonable job of holding the disc but repeated heat cycles weaken its grip and I have heard more than one story about rattling discs.
 

Fast Eddie

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Come on then racer boys… tell us what’s happening in yer sheds… Rebuilds? Upgrades? Secret dastardly plans for 2022 glory? Etc ??
 

Chris

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Hi Nige
Next season! Let's see how much of it actually happens!
Goodwood rebuilding my Dresda 3 but & you will like this! Having a new tank & seat made! Full Peckett engine 6 plug head programmable ignition, I've even brought new tyres. Forks need re chroming to 35mm to suit the yokes. Original open mega.
Bob Mac East Fortune Big girl 960 Seeley Commando, new ignition system, new Falcon rear shocks, new tyres.
Can't see myself getting abroad as things are so will cherry pick the meetings with the CRMC & the BHR. Ie Brands in May Donnington in August & Angelsea in June on my birthday.
My brother along with my son & I will be doing a few track days.
I'm still collecting dates. Scarborough & Aberdare etc.
& I've brought some lottery tickets today with the vague hope of funding it all
 
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Fast Eddie

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Hi Nige
Next season! Let's see how much of it actually happens!
Goodwood rebuilding my Dresda 3 but & you will like this! Having a new tank & seat made! Full Peckett engine 6 plug head programmable ignition, I've even brought new tyres. Forks need re chroming to 35mm to suit the yokes. Original open mega.
Bob Mac East Fortune Big girl 960 Seeley Commando, new ignition system, new Falcon rear shocks, new tyres.
Can't see myself getting abroad as things are so will cherry pick the meetings with the CRMC & the BHR. Ie Brands in May Donnington in August & Angelsea in June on my birthday.
My brother along with my son & I will be doing a few track days.
I'm still collecting dates. Scarborough & Aberdare etc.
& I've brought some lottery tickets today with the vague hope of funding it all
You don’t rest up much do you Chris ?!

Sounds fantastic! Especially the Dresda… but you seem to have forgotten to add the pics mate…!!
 

SteveA

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Hi Steve's when I got mine I had problems with them fouling the fork legs. Mr Emerys advice was "they all do that! You have to lock up the floating disc & file the forks legs if the buttons still rub" I was speechless the set up costs a bomb & then you take a file to new parts!
They work well but a Bob Smith write up said he used to warp them on a regular basis. I think they made up solid ones.
If you had ever been in a braking zone with Bob Smith, him warping discs regularly would not surprise you! I hate to think what he did to TZ700 ones with no engine braking!

And the odd crack happened to some others too, I think Bob Tait had the most dramatic 180 degrees right across the centre...completely broken in half, and he only knew when I pointed it out to him, game over that day!.

I have a disc on the bench now where the button fouls the leg, I was thinking of using the milling machine! I know, its only a millimter......
 

SteveA

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Come on then racer boys… tell us what’s happening in yer sheds… Rebuilds? Upgrades? Secret dastardly plans for 2022 glory? Etc ??
Secret and dastardly plan revolves around a doctor I have yet to meet!

Step two relates to heat shielding, not exotic but 20 minutes on the bike will be more comfortable.

My last tame one went back to her home country!
 
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Norton 750 ready to go. Brakes, forks, steering head sorted. Reed valve crank breather fitted, hoses run to a breather tank under seat. Various broken brackets remade. Headsteady fixed, brakes bled blah blah.
Dommie 500, Maney 650SS head waiting to go on. Had new long inlets tracts made up for TT carbs. Otherwise bike done needs testing.
Ducati 250 stripped down and now in process of rebuilding, suspension falcon shocks, sports motorcycles NZ fork pistons. Engine usual stuff (box arrived Xmas eve) plus a Misano head, need to source tank and fairing also 34 mm Amal smoothbore (no longer made). Wondering whether to stick with 180 twin LS brake or something bigger and better on the front.
Anyway busy busy.
 

Fast Eddie

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Norton 750 ready to go. Brakes, forks, steering head sorted. Reed valve crank breather fitted, hoses run to a breather tank under seat. Various broken brackets remade. Headsteady fixed, brakes bled blah blah.
Dommie 500, Maney 650SS head waiting to go on. Had new long inlets tracts made up for TT carbs. Otherwise bike done needs testing.
Ducati 250 stripped down and now in process of rebuilding, suspension falcon shocks, sports motorcycles NZ fork pistons. Engine usual stuff (box arrived Xmas eve) plus a Misano head, need to source tank and fairing also 34 mm Amal smoothbore (no longer made). Wondering whether to stick with 180 twin LS brake or something bigger and better on the front.
Anyway busy busy.

Wow!

I suddenly feel very lazy !!

Sounds like you’re gearing up for an exciting season Steve.
 

Chris

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Steve there is a 34mm smoothbore on e bay at the moment
£90 odd quid. Don't think it's listed as such but you can tell by the reference.
Chris
 
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The Manx is nothing to do on. The CB250 had the fairing repainted after last crash. Have a tiny exhaust crack to be welded. The RDLC needs a new brake handle. The RG only needs a pair of Yamaha wheels for rain tyres. Reason for Yamaha 17" wheels was no slicks available for 18". Some machining to move rear brake disc 7.9 mm inwards. 6 Scandinavian races + 4 track days planned. So no big issues.
 

SteveA

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......Reed valve crank breather fitted, hoses run to a breather tank under seat....
You may want to revisit that!

Of course, I don't know what type of valve you have, or it's location, but.....

I have a Jim Comstock/CNW rear of crankcase reed valve breather on Steve Maney cases using the boss he machined there.

Jim is quite clear that the outlet from the breather should run to the oil tank. On start up all of your wet sumped oil is going up that route, and even whilst running there may be a similar amount leaving the crankcase via the reed valve as via the pump!
 
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You may want to revisit that!

Of course, I don't know what type of valve you have, or it's location, but.....

I have a Jim Comstock/CNW rear of crankcase reed valve breather on Steve Maney cases using the boss he machined there.

Jim is quite clear that the outlet from the breather should run to the oil tank. On start up all of your wet sumped oil is going up that route, and even whilst running there may be a similar amount leaving the crankcase via the reed valve as via the pump!
I have had hours of fun with the oil system on this bike. I initially ran two oil hoses, one from the crankcase a la Maney and one from the timing case into a modified oil tank. It eventually cried enough and split, either excess pressure, vibration or both. End of last year I ran the lines directly to the breather tank and you are right oil went in there (about 250ml after 20min race) Had to empty between races, not ideal. I have a JS Motorsport reed valve installed now, I closed off the timing case breather, the bike does not wet sump per say although obviously there is some oil in the bottom of the crankcase. Plan is to see how I go with this set up. I have had an air/oil separator fabricated which I can put above the reed valve, if either do not work I can plumb back into oil tank. Thanks for the input, it’s appreciated.

 
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