problems with filler neck

dear All,
this is the second time I am having issues with the filler neck: it seems that the cap is touching the back of the tank when opening after 90 degrees. Please see pictures below.

What is strange is that before having the tank painted, I checked the cap was working well in order to avoid the problems I already had, and it had plenty of clearance to move around. I am wondering if the new caps that Norton Andover is providing are bigger than the old ones..

Anyone of you had the same problem? How to fix it in order to avoid to damage the brand new paintwork?
Thank you!

Hi,

You mentioned that you test fitted it before paint. Did you get a new cap after that ?

We are seeing a problem with the 'new' caps that are offered as well. The relief/cut out in the back that also serves as a stop is deeper and therefore allows the cap to open up further, often to a point where it will make contact with the tank.

I haven't figured out how to make the new caps work so I use old ones.I pre-fit on the tank that it will be used on and then I have it re-chromed. The pot metal is hard to get re-chromed so my success rate is about 2 out of 3 caps are usable when back from chrome.

Matt / Colorado Norton Works

Oh oh, all my tanks have a depression around the filler with a squared of depression to clear the cap hinge extension. Looks like someone filled that in un-knowingly though beautifully done ugh. At least nowadays there's a www to share the depression as family sure won't appreciate what ya feeling while stealing a bit more from their family reserves and not marring the paint getting the hinge pin in.

Thank you Matt: this could be a good reason

Btw: are the caps fitting on the metal tanks the same as those mounted on the fiberglass ones?

CNW said:

Hi,

You mentioned that you test fitted it before paint. Did you get a new cap after that ?

We are seeing a problem with the 'new' caps that are offered as well. The relief/cut out in the back that also serves as a stop is deeper and therefore allows the cap to open up further, often to a point where it will make contact with the tank.

I haven't figured out how to make the new caps work so I use old ones.I pre-fit on the tank that it will be used on and then I have it re-chromed. The pot metal is hard to get re-chromed so my success rate is about 2 out of 3 caps are usable when back from chrome.

Matt / Colorado Norton Works

Click to expand...

I've interchanged my steel Roadster cap with cap off my fiber IS tank no problemo. One cap was a bit scratched so used nicer one on Trixie this time around.

CNW said:

Hi,

You mentioned that you test fitted it before paint. Did you get a new cap after that ?

We are seeing a problem with the 'new' caps that are offered as well. The relief/cut out in the back that also serves as a stop is deeper and therefore allows the cap to open up further, often to a point where it will make contact with the tank.

I haven't figured out how to make the new caps work so I use old ones.I pre-fit on the tank that it will be used on and then I have it re-chromed. The pot metal is hard to get re-chromed so my success rate is about 2 out of 3 caps are usable when back from chrome.

Matt / Colorado Norton Works

Click to expand...

This is rather depressing news. Maybe I will reconsider painting the caps I have to match tanks.

Maybe a blob of JBW on stop would work?

Lorenzo said:

Thank you Matt: this could be a good reason

Btw: are the caps fitting on the metal tanks the same as those mounted on the fiberglass ones?

CNW said:

Hi,

You mentioned that you test fitted it before paint. Did you get a new cap after that ?

We are seeing a problem with the 'new' caps that are offered as well. The relief/cut out in the back that also serves as a stop is deeper and therefore allows the cap to open up further, often to a point where it will make contact with the tank.

I haven't figured out how to make the new caps work so I use old ones.I pre-fit on the tank that it will be used on and then I have it re-chromed. The pot metal is hard to get re-chromed so my success rate is about 2 out of 3 caps are usable when back from chrome.

Matt / Colorado Norton Works

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Even though I have see some slight differences between caps, I dont think that they ever made a fiberglass tank or steel tank specific cap. I am pretty sure they outsourced the cap manufacturing (I may be wrong) as I have seen some cars that have the same style cap as well. A few years back there was a locking cap available and I believe that was sourced directly from a car.

I think the most important thing is to test the fit of the cap that will be used before the tank is painted. That way you can ensure that it fits.

Hobots idea about building it up is good. Not sure JB is the answer since it has to positively stay in place even when the cap is flipped up. This isnt alway done carefully and if the additional build up came loose, it would get ugly in a hurry.

Matt / Colorado Norton Works

CNW said:

I am pretty sure they outsourced the cap manufacturing (I may be wrong) as I have seen some cars that have the same style cap as well.

Click to expand...

The original caps were made by Ceandess.

http://www.ceandess.co.uk/

Unfortunately there are also other cheaper copies available.

ugh just looked at cap on tank and agree Matt JBW would not likely adhere in the long run, so came up with another idea, tap a set screw in from the inside and then glue - seal it in place. Again I note I've never seen a tank w/o the recessed surround with hinge space so maybe that's aggravating the clash. My cap springs can't flip cap all the way vertical so non issue on much force on the hinge stop unless bumped by gas nozzle.

Had exactly the same issue when I fitted a new cap (Genuine Part) to my original interstate MK3 tank. The tanks got a real expensive paint job and was loath to keep removing the pin and going into a sweaty breath holding performance tapping it back in, nor could I remember if the original cap did the same? So in the end I decided to just put a couple of very small strips of plastic tape on the rear end of the cap where it touches the tank. Not an expert or permanent fix I know, but it doesn't notice much and saves any damage In case I forget to hold the cap up when refueling. :|

I bought an new AN cap when I converted my Roadster to a Fastback but ended up using the original cap from the roadster due to the same issue. Original cap was fine on the fiberglass fastback tank but new cap interfered.