Primary Oil Level

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Checked my primary oil level before a 300 mile trip. Opened the lower drain and nothing came out. Closed it. Then checked with a light from the top. Topped it off til the oil (ATF) just touched the bottom of the chain. On center stand of course. Rode the bike. ATF was everywhere. Looks like it exited the rear seal. Cleaned it off and bled the case thru the lower screw. Doesn't seem that now there is enough in there to do the job.

What is the proper procedure? Shouldn't that rear seal have held the oil in? I need enlightenment. Thanks.
 
Hi Boptpne.
I measure 300ml of ATF into the primary case and it mists the primary space well when running.
I have not had your problem that I assume you mean the felt seal rather than the large rubber joint seal.
Unusual for sure.
Ta.
 
I am guessing you overfilled the primary

go by the recommended amount of oil per the manual rather than filling until the level touches the lower chain rung

at this point it is likely the clutch plates are pretty oil saturated too

you could just take out the level plug and let it drain until until nothing more comes out

or take off the primary cover to drain it all and also take out the clutch plates and dry everything off, does not take much time

and refill with is it 7 ounces, it is the mist that lubricates, lots get sloshed around in there
 
With chain set to proper cold slackness I found ATF fill just to touch chain links works to keep chain clean and no leaks on two Combats 2 decades now. Once in a while I over fill accidentally somewhat towards manual listed amount and get a bit of mess till finds its natural level again.
 
Thanks for the help! I've let the level seek the drain plug and will drive it tomorrow. Hopefully this level is 7 oz. cuz not removing case cover every time to measure. Nice to know it just needs "mist". Clutch still works fine.
 
Can't find the answer to the question of why my Mark3 primary holds 11+ oz (US) of oil before reaching the level plug, and yet the service manual states that primary oil capacity is 7 oz (imperial). ?????
 
lazyeye6 said:
Can't find the answer to the question of why my Mark3 primary holds 11+ oz (US) of oil before reaching the level plug, and yet the service manual states that primary oil capacity is 7 oz (imperial). ?????

that allows up to 4 oz to leak into primary from crankcase and tranny when seals are bad?
:twisted:
 
Do not the ES models need to keep extra leaking hydraulic fluid inside to keep active tensioned shagging the sprag repeatedly between keeping eye on maintaining enough excess insurance.
 
I appreciate the thoughtful responses. So....to extrapolate this thread, it would seem that by overfilling the primary I am
keeping my sprag operating for a few weeks longer than it otherwise would , AND topping off my engine oil level via
primary oil migrating through the failing oil seal since I have negative pressure in my crankcase by using the one way brake
vacuum device. Hard to believe same gene pool designed the Rolls Royce Merlin engine AND the Commando engine.
 
lazyeye6 said:
AND topping off my engine oil level via primary oil migrating through the failing oil seal

It's more common for oil to migrate from crankcase to primary when the engine oil drains to the sump during extended periods of inactivity.

Oil can also seep through at the crankcase-primary stud threads (Mk3, or bolts pre-Mk3) so apply sealant to the threads.
 
lazyeye6 said:
Hard to believe same gene pool designed the Rolls Royce Merlin engine AND the Commando engine.

Economics and bureaucracy trump genes every time.
 
I purposely over fill my '74 primary with ATF, so the bottom run of chain is covered, no runs, no drips, no errors. A bit of RTV on the tin shield to seal. Perfect clutch. Stator cooling as a side bene. And a well lubed clutch basket bearing.
JMWO YMMV :mrgreen:
 
lazyeye6 said:
Can't find the answer to the question of why my Mark3 primary holds 11+ oz (US) of oil before reaching the level plug, and yet the service manual states that primary oil capacity is 7 oz (imperial). ?????

Manual erronious? "Cliffhanger" (aftermarket) manual? Or OEM?
 
It could also just be leaking from the grommet where the Stator wire goes through the primary inner case. They must be sealed with RTV from both sides & still only stay leak free until they get hard or the RTV breaks free. This happened to mine recently & I thought the felt seal or big O-ring was leaking.
 
Some Norton 'history' that some owners may not be aware of is as follows
When Mr Phil Heath and others working at Norton in the early 1930s designed the rather clever pressed steel oil bath chain case (OBCC from here on!)they did NOT design a wet clutch that would work correctly with oil on the friction interfaces but continued to employ a dry clutch. To ensure oil might possibly lubricate the primary chain increasing its life and efficiency but did NOT enter the clutch which would result in slip and drag due to oil problems they did two things. One was to position the oil level plug very low down so that oil at the correct level would just touch the bottom of the lower run of the chain at its lowest point creating an oil mist in service and the other was to place around the basket what is described in the parts books as an OIL EXCLUDING BAND. Mr Heath told me that the correct oil to employ was a straight engine oil of SAE10 or 20. I still have an unopened gallon can of SAE10 and 20... It is because the clutch was designed to be run DRY that for example my 'Maintenance Manual and Instruction Book for Models 50/ES2/88/99/650/Sports Special /750 Atlas and 750 Scrambler' (publication P106P) states that a smear of grease should be applied to the clutch rollers (page 36) and on the problems page (page 89) for clutch slip it states and I quote 'Oil on plates(usually caused by overfilling bath)'. The cure given being 'Dismantle clutch plates and wash in petrol'. How reassuring it is to know that owners are to blame and not Norton for shoving a dry clutch within an oil bath chain case in the first place!!

As for the correct OBCC oil level for Commandos ......which are, being polite, rather prone to clutch slip and drag problrems. In yet another effort to reduce the slip problem Mr John Nelson(Service Manager?) cut up a chaincase outer inserting a lump of perspex to see exactly what was happening. His advice was that the oil level which the manuals stated was 'till oil begins to seep out of the oil level plug'...was wrong. This led to the instruction being added to section K8 in the manual...'Under no circumstances allow more than 7 fl oz (200cc) of oil in primary case'... which of course some really clever soul simply added to the original instruction which told owners to fill till oil seeped out of the level plug!! A friends Commando filled to the level plug contained approx 290cc of oil.
To prove a point a few very simple back of fag packet original 750 Commando clutch calculations..like what i do when playing at belt system clutch designing.....
1. Required clutch torque capacity. MAX crank torque 45ft lb. Assuming (incorrectly) no power loss in chain and std 26-57 tooth sprockets MAX torque at clutch = 45 x 57/26 = 99 ft lb. Applying rule of thumb clutch service/safety factor of x 2 then the required clutch torque capacity = 99 ft lb x 2 = 198 ft lb
2. In theory clutch torque capacity. 4 friction plates giving 8 friction interfaces. |Effective radius of original friction plates approx 0.205 ft. Original friction material shown on Norton clutch plate drawing is Ferodo MS6. Ferodo MS6 data sheet lists Coefficient of Friction values for design purposes as Dry 0.34. Oil mist 0.1 - 0.12.
In oil 0.09. Clamp load applied by ORIGINAL diaphragm spring (0.075 +/- 0.0015 inch thick) IF correctly set up approx 380 lbf. (According to the original Norton test results and testing the Mech. Eng. Dept. of a certain UK university did for me using two original 750 diaphragm springs). Thus the in theory clutch torque capacity is...
DRY.........8 x 0.205 x 0.34 x 380 = 212 ft lb
OIL MIST....8 x 0.205 x 0.1 / 0.12 x 380 = 62 / 75 ft lb.
OIL..........8 x 0.205 x -.09 x 380 = 56 ft lb.
With a required clutch torque capacity of 210 ft lb......Q E D?
As for the use of ATF oil within the OBCC........Does not ATF contain high levels of friction inhibitors? Not the sort of oil one wants on the clutch friction dependant interfaces of a dry clutch surely ?? Is that why Mr Heath recommended I use a straight SAE10 or 20 engine oil? I believe a straight SAE20 engine oil is available in one litre or pint or quart cans from Silkolene or Morris oil stockists. In my young days when Barry Sheen was riding his Fathers Bultaco race bikes friends used very thin REDEX in their chain cases because the chains ran at such high linear speeds anything thicker did not make it into the chain to lubricate the great many plain bearings and on the long circuit at Brands Hatch the chains would often fail ..usually on the last lap when in the lead? Ever read the Renold recommended max chain speeds for various forms of industrial chain use lubrication? For oil bath it is 'up to 2,000 ft / min'. Ideally we should be using sump and pump spraying oil onto the inner edge of the side plates just before the chain flies around the clutch at up to and above at times 6,000 ft / min we often use it at!! Guess why I use belts which run dry happily at any belt speed I will ever use.
Incidentally for those bronze plate clutch owners who believe sintered bronze to be 'high torque' might I suggest you do a few simple calculations... Max crank torque = 55 ft lb. There are 10 friction interfaces with an effective radius of approx 0.21 ft. Rule of thumb Coefficient of Frictions for sintered bronze are DRY 0.3 and IN OIL 0.06 - 0.08. With the later clutch the spring by then in use (0.084 +/- 0.0015 inch thick) gave a clamp load of approx 550 lbf along with heavy clutch lever action!!. So go play and determine for yourself if that clutch was a designed to be run wet or dry clutch..Then do it again using the 380lbf of the original 750 spring. I bet the guy 'designing' was unaware that there were 4 different springs fitted during Commando production..and another different one fitted to the rotary Norton clutches but as the only easily noticeable difference is in spring thickness and its only varies by a few thousandths of an inch.......

No spell or grammer checks done as I am very old and lazy ..as my better half will confirm!!
 
Hi J. M. Leadbeater.
An interesting insight addition to the thread but regarding ATF Type F:
Viscosity 
cSt @ 40ºC 36.0
cSt @ 100ºC. 7.2
"...high-friction fluid that allowed the shifting clutches to lock up or engage quickly. Ford specification ESW-M2C33-F covers this type of product, which is commonly referred to as "Type F" fluid...".
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/ ... ype_F.aspx
You are correct in that the later ATF's have additives to reduce friction.

For comparison:
Viscosity of Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50
cSt @ 40°C 172.3
cSt @ 100°C 20.8
http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/ ... -Twin.aspx
Ta.
 
i had clutch sticking and slipping till I switched to Type F for Ford Friction bands in Peel but ran out so have only used Dexon in plain ole Trixie with prior sticking clutch over night and never had one hint of trouble for a few years. May yet have trouble with my expedient chronic Dexon use someday. Why didn*t Norton just put in a dry belt system and save us the trouble.
 
hobot said:
i had clutch sticking and slipping till I switched to Type F for Ford Friction bands in Peel but ran out so have only used Dexon in plain ole Trixie with prior sticking clutch over night and never had one hint of trouble for a few years. May yet have trouble with my expedient chronic Dexon use someday. Why didn*t Norton just put in a dry belt system and save us the trouble.

Because belts were for holding yer pants up (along with suspenders for backup) when Nortons were drawn up.
 
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