Paint questions

So...i'm feeling a little down on powder coat, and thinking of painting my frame, especially since my tank and side covers (also black) aren't in great shape, so maybe we'll do them at the same time...my two big questions right now. The article on old brits about masking before powder coating, that wouldn't apply to such an extreme with paint correct? I'm assuming those problems pop up due to the thickness of powder coating? Also does anyone have any experience with a brand/type of paint that is nice and tough enough for the frame, but still look good on the tins, but i can spray not in a pro situation without having a tail or cancer when finished?

kevbo82 said:

So...i'm feeling a little down on powder coat, and thinking of painting my frame, especially since my tank and side covers (also black) aren't in great shape, so maybe we'll do them at the same time...my two big questions right now. The article on old brits about masking before powder coating, that wouldn't apply to such an extreme with paint correct? I'm assuming those problems pop up due to the thickness of powder coating? Also does anyone have any experience with a brand/type of paint that is nice and tough enough for the frame, but still look good on the tins, but i can spray not in a pro situation without having a tail or cancer when finished?

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It's still a good idea to mask the gearbox cradle around the swinging arm and the engine mounts - the frame itself should be OK.
2-pack works well on frames and is equally suitable for the tinware - it polishes up to a perfect shine and is durable and fuel resistant.
I use an epoxy etch primer on the bare metal and the paint adheres well to it. My MKIIA was done in PPG 2-pack a couple of years ago and is holding up very well - only a couple of minor stone-chips on the front cross-member so far; easily as tough as the original paint.
With a decent cartridge mask you may even survive the experience
It's definitely worth the extra hassle for the results - 2-pack and the epoxy etch also do a great job of blending out minor imperfections is a way that other paints just cannot do. Perfect for a frame that's previously been a bit rusty.

Yes I agree, 2 pak is the most durable, and touches up nicely. You can get a good mask with carbon filters, only trouble is they age once opened. I keep my carbon filters in an airtight tuppa ware container to extend their life.
Normal enamel, soft, Acrylic needs cutting to get best off gun shine. So 2 pak is the nasty to use option I am afraid.

On the tins, I use 1500 & 2000 wet & dry after applying 3 coats of clear to get a glass like finish. Just buff it up with a machine buff or elbow grease to get a finish you will be proud of.

Cheers Richard

I used POR 15 two part on my frame. Only time will tell if it was a good idea as it has not been on the road yet. They make a number of single part top coat paints that would be interesting to try. The local paint shop has coated pieces of pipe with different products and the let you take them out to wack on curbs and such to test them out. Some of these paints are pretty amazing. I would not use any of them on the tins. You would be a lot happier I think with buying rattle can automotive paints from NAPA or similar sources.

Russ

I just use Rustoleum rattle can on frames. Easy to apply, easy to touch up, cheap, and has been extremely durable. And I restore a lot of bikes. I find it nice in that it isn't super ultra glossy. Stock frames are never really that brilliant anyhow. I have some bikes that have many many years on this type of paint, no issues. About the only thing I masked would be the bearing cups, ID plate, etc. Otherwise, if need be, just a little scraping with an exacto knife.

My Commando and Triumph were both done this way.

Irutt,
what, if any prep do you do with that? sanding, blasting to bare metal, primer, etc? I'm so fed up with the back and forth in my mind of what to do with this frame i might just paint bomb it with cans!

Maybe paint is better these days, but I painted my frame back in the late 70's with rattle can. I did put yellow zinc primer on it, and don't know the black, but it didn't hold up against the gas and oil, ended up with lots of streaks on the cradle.

I had it powder coated couple of years ago and looks fine to me, it's a motorcycle, not a show room piece.

Dave
69S

I powder coated my frame and engine mounts. If I were doing it again I would probably use paint.

I was surprised how easily the powdercoat deformed when I spilt petrol on it when my petcock broke while I was attempting to tighten it into the tank. And when I scratched the frame with my torque wrench it was really difficult to cover the scratch with paint. And I was unaware of the issues about the thickness of powder coat on the engine mounts (Old Britt article) when I had mine done; I irregularly check the tightness of the mounting bolts and keep my fingers crossed (and I have never revved it beyond about 6000 rpm).

The guy who did my tank and covers swears by a two pot finish on frames; but I understand that a novice should not attempt that.

DuPont Imron. I've worked with it in industry for 30 years. HARD and solvent resistant without the extreme thickness of powdercoat.

http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/vis ... /home.html

isn't the imron pretty nasty stuff though? like i shouldn't be spraying it with a cartridge respirator nasty? I have a decent shop to work in, it has two large exhaust fans on two walls, and drains in the floor so i can hose the place down first to keep dust down. A full face cartridge respirator is the best thing i have to keep me around to see my kids grow up though lol

It's all really nasty stuff. Chemicals = cancer . Move to Micronesia or say a remote group of islands off of North Japan . No Nortons though.

kevbo82 said:

isn't the imron pretty nasty stuff though? like i shouldn't be spraying it with a cartridge respirator nasty?l

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You are right, a cartridge respirator isn't good enough to keep you from breathing isocyanates. Not good. Even bare skin is bad news....

kevbo82 said:

isn't the imron pretty nasty stuff though? like i shouldn't be spraying it with a cartridge respirator nasty? I have a decent shop to work in, it has two large exhaust fans on two walls, and drains in the floor so i can hose the place down first to keep dust down. A full face cartridge respirator is the best thing i have to keep me around to see my kids grow up though lol

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Supplied air breathing is required. Your local body shop has all the needed safety gear. Or, get your own. Some have been known to position themselves upstream from the paint being applied and the exhaust fan.