oil pumps

Ugh, Dereck, one thing Commando owning has forced on me is character developing intervals of attitude adjustment to face more no short cuts in maintenance and recoveries. Thank goodness Norton don't seem to need much oil pressure. Maybe someday someone will come up with electromagnetic pump w/o moving parts or seals though wouldn't solve wet sump with power off.

Ugh, Dereck, one thing Commando owning has forced on me is character developing intervals of attitude adjustment to face more no short cuts in maintenance and recoveries. Thank goodness Norton don't seem to need much oil pressure.

You know, you could scare the shit out of yourself if you knew what was really happening in there. When you consider the Chev blue flame engines oil pump developed 15 psi OP, and the BE brgs were splash fed , I don't think the commando has any problems. When you think about it. the leakage factor on the engine theoretically does not change with revs, but oil flow does. If we all fit an oil filter on the return line we will keep larger particles away from the bearings etc. My Commando's only has 2 speeds, Go and stop. I never bother about making them idle sweetly as it is never required, though they both do idle reasonably well. The engine hardly ever run below 2500 rpm so oil pressure should never be a problem.[ Why so low you may ask. That's because my 3rd gear on the 850 is as noisy as f.... so I will often put it in 4th to go through towns rather embarrass myself with the noise. ] now that a new thread I should explore.
All the best Steve. ps I have been looking at the Sir Eddy's blog for the first time . good stuff in there.

Beating the poor old dead horse with a general wet sump question.
My new engine is beginning to show the symptoms. Slowly draining the oil tank over a couple of weeks. I have been draining the sump and just pouring the oil back into the tank.
Its working pretty well. Question is that if I leave it sit over the winter, does the oil in the sump migrate to a system that it doesnt belong? Primary maybe?
Should I drain the oil completely before storing it or let it drain down?
Dont mean to hijack the thread.
Thanks

Mike to get your side track out the way, wet sump is a non issue for any harm at all but to reveal faster, bad ring sealing smoke, crank end seal primary case leak or prexisting crank case leaks - so just make sure you have or add enough oil to cover a few seconds oil feed to start before sump side pump it twice as fast back in tank. Newbie's need to know that by far most wear occurs on start ups and most of that is on cam/lifters so any run time below cam break in rpm ~2000+ish is pure wasteful luxury trading pleasant sounds with unpleasant wear. ZAPP nano layer only deposits when oil gets over boiling on the friction surfaces so slow idle before shut off removes the protection we worry with by paying extra for the additive. Starting w/o running to full heat up each time is fastest way to wear em out.

Dereak-Keri [sp], I have had two racer powerful Nortons, '68 P!! mid 10 sec 1/4 mile dragster and ~1.5 sec slower '72 Ms Peel Combat, but both were great slow idlers to 600's rpm and one kick starters so I don't believe racer level engines have any downside on creeping around pits or on slick looseness or tight city traffic stuff to ROAR and spin tire too easy if throttle snapped too much just off idle speeds. I find 3rd gear has both the weakest teeth yet most torque loads on our engines as its 3rd gear I and others get most clutch slip issues on 850's and Ms Peel sliced off 3rd's teeth out dragging likes of excited Ducati Monsters up to the ton, when their hp could finally out do past Peel. So your annoying 3rd gear needs looking into to see if its not surface wear but teeth missing to make noise. Past Peel 3rd had the least pleasing pull so got into 4th at 110 mph so get the pull going better again. Peel could go maybe another 10 mph faster in 3rd into red zone but the wait was not worth it. If replacing 3rd set I'd sure look into a bit lower ratio closer to taller 850 2nd ratio.