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- Jan 18, 2020
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- 637
For a short period of time, yes,So to make it full discharged, put a light bulb across it ? , and when it's discharged should it have have continuity ?
For a short period of time, yes,So to make it full discharged, put a light bulb across it ? , and when it's discharged should it have have continuity ?
Testing procedure for the capacitor is found in the workshop manual (which is downloadable from the Technical Info sticky thread in this forum group section).So to make it full discharged, put a light bulb across it ? , and when it's discharged should it have have continuity ?
All reg/recs are not polarity sensitive b/c they recieve AC power from the alt, and have a + and a - wire coming out that connect to whatever bike setup you have.Thanks, can someone tell me if the shindegen sh775 can be hooked up easily, or does the whole system need to be changed to negative earth , or can you hook it up a special way for the positive earth .
Amen. And HARNESS REPLACEMENT should be justified, not a guessing game.FWIW, I few year ago I replaced the OEM Norton rectifier/Zener with a Podtronics and the result was .2V less voltage at every RPM than the rectifier/zener. At low/idle speed, this is the difference between charging the battery and discharging the battery. Don't assume that "new and modern" means it actually works better - or even as well - as the OEM stuff...
Capacitors have a finite life. There is a Lucas workshop manual available for your bike. Testing procedure is probably in there.Comments on the capacitor would be great
Mine tested good as per workshop guide some 48 yrs after manufacture thats a pretty descent finite life right there!Capacitors have a finite life. There is a Lucas workshop manual available for your bike. Testing procedure is probably in there.
- Knut
My DMM will check the capacitance in microfarads. For instance, if I attach my leads to the terminals my meter will tell me how many microfarads the capacitor has available and if it matches the capacitor rating, it’s more than likely good. If, however, you read 0 microfarads it means the capacitor is open and bad. A shorted capacitor should be visibly obvious by the bulging of the can. I do agree that the quickest and easiest check is to replace with a known good one.A DMM in its capacitor check position can only determine if a cap is open or shorted. Obviously, that may be sufficient. But they cannot determine if a cap is good or bad under load in the circuit. IOW, a cap may check out OK with a DMM but fail in operation. Absent a real capacitor checker, the traditional best test for a suspicious capacitor is substitution with a known good one.
Yes but just keep in mind that the DMM does not apply working voltage or test for leakage. So it's possible to have a good mF reading but a bad cap. I run into this all time working on vintage audio gear. Heck, for that matter, nowadays brand new caps sometime will not meet their voltage spec without excessive leakage.My DMM will check the capacitance in microfarads.
My zener died and cooked/bloated the battery. This was running led headlight and tail/brake lights. Got home on the capcitor but got dodgey. When I had turn signals on at idling at traffic lightsIf you go to LEDs on all your lamps, the required power is lower than original. At this point are you making more power than you need and your zener will be passing a lot in heat? I ask because my zener is getting hot immediately after start. There is no problem so far with the battery losing power whilst standing ignition off.