Need help homemade engineering fix

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dilbery

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need help in locating a reputable shop to line bore cam bushes in nsw Australia fabricating homemade tool at present . is a 7/8 reamer 8 Spiral flutes going to be the right tool and size looks like its a one shot deal have spares ,timing side fits primary side tight. I am located central west nsw. Any help or advice greatly appreciated
 
In Canada , but can say I've built a few engines but never needed to line bore any bush. Or ream out. I like them tight. If you can fit snug with lube soaked into the 2 bushes and push the cam home , then change the oil after first run in then good to go my advice. Of course perfectionists will differ. If you cannot get the cam to fit into the bushes then proceed on your end of the world.
 
Torontonian said:
In Canada , but can say I've built a few engines but never needed to line bore any bush. Or ream out. I like them tight. If you can fit snug with lube soaked into the 2 bushes and push the cam home , then change the oil after first run in then good to go my advice. Of course perfectionists will differ. If you cannot get the cam to fit into the bushes then proceed on your end of the world.
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Unfortunately primary side will not slide in no matter what I’ve tried that’s with cases apart Thanks
 
dilbery said:
need help in locating a reputable shop to line bore cam bushes in nsw Australia fabricating homemade tool at present . is a 7/8 reamer 8 Spiral flutes going to be the right tool and size looks like its a one shot deal have spares ,timing side fits primary side tight. I am located central west nsw. Any help or advice greatly appreciated
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Do you not have a Norton owners club in your county where they hire out special tools to members?
 
dilbery said:
Is a 7/8 reamer 8 Spiral flutes going to be the right tool and size looks like its a one shot deal have spares ,timing side fits primary side tight. I am located central west nsw. Any help or advice greatly appreciated
Click to expand...

If the timing side is OK ( A fluke if it is with a >NEW< AN 06-3020 bush) you will get away with a mandrel guide in the T/S bush and the reamer you describe.

Ream.JPG


IMG_5782 - Copy.JPG
 
Hi time warp Yes fluked timing side with 06/3020 /bush tried cam in another set of cases old bushes and it won’t slide in either side standard cam with 1200 miles on it I am no machinest seem to be getting two different readings blind side appears to be ..4 thou larger timing side shows no wear if I’m reading Verviers correctly last shop made a meal of bushes no wonder.had to pull down motor chasing rumble /main slipping on crank and discovered cam dilemma slopping about thanks for pics not done yet!
 
I am guessing by the bush number its an 850 but the inner main race moving on the journal would be an oddity given the high interference fit.
What is your post code ?
 
TW's rig is impressive, mine less so, but does the trick, assuming your reamer has a 3/4" shank - if you can locate two 7/8 od x 3/4 id x 2" bronze top hat bushings (bearing suppliers carry these), you can mock up a retaining plate that screws into the timing cover bolt holes on the case, the trick is to precisely bore a hole for the outboard bush in the mounting plate, the second top hat presses into the pre sized TS bushing, with each bush opposed (one facing inboard and one facing outboard) this give you 4+ inches of support for the reamer.
 
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acadian said:
TW's rig is impressive, mine less so, but does the trick, assuming your reamer has a 3/4" shank - if you can locate two 7/8 od x 3/4 id x 2" bronze top hat bushings (bearing suppliers carry these), you can mock up a retaining plate that screws into the timing cover bolt holes on the case, the trick is to precisely bore a hole for the outboard bush in the mounting plate, the second top hat presses into the pre sized TS bushing, with each bush opposed (one facing inboard and one facing outboard) this give you 4+ inches of support for the reamer.
Click to expand...
Thanks like the idea reamer shaft is stepped but soft/can be scored with a file about 1/3 + its length might be able to turn fo size and fab bush
 
acadian said:
TW's rig is impressive, mine less so, but does the trick, assuming your reamer has a 3/4" shank - if you can locate two 7/8 od x 3/4 id x 2" bronze top hat bushings (bearing suppliers carry these), you can mock up a retaining plate that screws into the timing cover bolt holes on the case, the trick is to precisely bore a hole for the outboard bush in the mounting plate, the second top hat presses into the pre sized TS bushing, with each bush opposed (one facing inboard and one facing outboard) this give you 4+ inches of support for the reamer.
Click to expand...
Time Warp said:
I am guessing by the bush number its an 850 but the inner main race moving on the journal would be an oddity given the high interference fit.
What is your post code ?
Click to expand...
2804
 
There are easier ways to do this.

Adjustable reamer for reaming timing side (add extended pilot bush in drive side hole).
Need help homemade engineering fix


For reaming drive side (add pilot bush for timing side hole and driver slot to turn reamer).
Need help homemade engineering fix
 
dilbery said:
Unfortunately primary side will not slide in no matter what I’ve tried that’s with cases apart Thanks
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There is a good chance that just the edge of the new bushing is collapsed in a little. If that's the case, you can take that lip off with sand paper wrapped around a dowel or even you finger but don't go much past the edge. You could also do it with a reamer freehand but again, just the edge. Opening the first 1/16" to 1/8" will not hurt anything and if that's all it needs, you're done.
 
If I wanted to do that, I would have to find a tool and cutter grinder in Melbourne. These days most of our machine shops have gone, so their support services have diminished.
 
acotrel said:
If I wanted to do that, I would have to find a tool and cutter grinder in Melbourne. These days most of our machine shops have gone, so their support services have diminished.
Click to expand...

Good luck with that.
It is not just finding someone with the ability to do the job but someone who wants to do it (old relics) and will treat the parts you supply (which might be half a century old in this case) with some respect. (not damage them)

I bet there are folk out there who still beat sleeve gears into the bearing.

Need help homemade engineering fix


I have no problem being called a perfectionist if not bashing things is that and should have had some gospel music playing when I eased the sleeve gear in over that custom machined tube up against the bearing inner race . (LOL)
First gears are now set with custom Al/bronze heavy shims at 0.6 mm and 1. 2 mm for 0.2 mm float.
#
If I was local to the OP I would have done what I could to help .
 
acadian said:
TW's rig is impressive, mine less so, but does the trick, assuming your reamer has a 3/4" shank - if you can locate two 7/8 od x 3/4 id x 2" bronze top hat bushings (bearing suppliers carry these), you can mock up a retaining plate that screws into the timing cover bolt holes on the case, the trick is to precisely bore a hole for the outboard bush in the mounting plate, the second top hat presses into the pre sized TS bushing, with each bush opposed (one facing inboard and one facing outboard) this give you 4+ inches of support for the reamer.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure how to take that but thanks.
The centre section is removable then another locates the reamer to do the D/S so line reamed all the way.
A lot of work but an easy 10 minute job in the end.

#
Edit.
The suck part is, if a previous owner had not starved the cam of oil or some other thing I would not have needed to replace the bushes (T/S mainly) and camshaft due to massive corrugation on both.
Of course the engine was still running and might not have known if I had not looked, that was around the time I found the crack the length of the D/S bearing/seal/sprocket/rotor shaft.
 
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I'm surprised no one has posted saying they have never needed to ream a cam bush in 40 years. ;)
 
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