PThis how mine is fixed:
Although I own the bike from new (probably the last hybrid ever produced) it is no longer original.
The rear loop has been reinforced, etc..
I may have changed the position of the oil tank, to bring it more in.
You can see that the crease on the oil tank runs parallel with the frame tube.
This will also depend on the front tank mount:
Do you have a straight strap or a later one with an angle to bring the tank more inwards?
(= better, so that the filler cap won't poke in your leg)
Don't worry too much about originality ( they were all different) but try to mount the oil tank as stressfree as possible.
When you tighten the front mount, you get an idea where the rear mount should land.
This is the one on the chopped N15:
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I think it was made to fit under the fender. I'm showing it for others who need ideas on what will work in a pinch.
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Notice, after the arch, one side has a longer leg. This goes on the oil tank side. Ya, I couldn't get the fender to line up, so I had to do a look see.
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the graph paper is 1/4 inch grid. I did this is a bit of a rush. I can answer more questions about sizes later, but I thought this would work for a quick answer.
Not saying it is but the bracket looks almost the same for the w/line frame on the Norton parts list on the 56 to 59 wideline on this forum, list no 93.Here is what I was able to come up with:
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All on this drawing start on the tool box side, end of the bracket.
1 1/4" to center line of first radius
1 11/16" to center line of second radius
3 15/16" to center line of 5/16" hole
5 19/32" to center line of 3/16" hole I think this hole is to locate the piece on the press for bending
7 1/4" to center line of 5/16" hole
9 5/8" to center line of third radius
10 1/2" to center line of fourth radius
11 3/4" to end of piece
Slotted holes are 7/16" by 9/16" with a 11/64" wide end
the strap is 1" wide and .092" with paint on thick=
The spacer pieces are 7/8" round stock by .770" and .790" with a .390" hole through them. They have marks on both ends from being turned on a lathe.
the radius of the fender is 8" and 5 3/4" across
it is centered in the frame with an 1 1/2" clearance on both sides
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I wasn't thinking when I made these measurements from the oil tank side
With all this being said, although the fender shows that the bridge had been in place a long time, I noticed that the short leg side is pulled away from the fender.
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As I was looking for pictures online, I came across a Ebay seller that had the spacer pieces that were chromed for sale.
If I find the ad again I will edit this and post it here.
I have not been able to find pictures of N/G 15 co G12 support bridges yet.
Agent X and Pierodn both have these bikes that they are working on. Maybe they could take a look and see what they have for a support for the fender.
I did not want to disassemble the bike any more than this. I have my Commando torn apart now and don't want to get sidetracked and have a limited amount of room to work. When I get started on the Matchless in earnest again, I will get the pictures and dimensions of the J bracket.
Edit: Here is what I think I saw the other night
.MUDGUARD SPACER/ DISTANCE PIECE. MATCHLESS G15. POLISHED STAINLESS STEEL. DIFFERENT MODELS / YEARS / VARIATIONS, MAY REQUIRE DIFFERENT PART NUMBER. PART NUMBERS03-0396, 030396. NOT THE SIZE YOU WANT?.www.ebay.co.uk
While reveiwing the last two pictures, it looks as if the bend on the toolbox side is not correct. The oil tank side has the bend above the fender edge and the tool box side is below the fender edge.
I will try to play with the drawing later today and see what I can come up with.
Soz, no can't see it on website, it's the wrong page. Someone like Russell Motors or others who do 88,99 might have spares book or you could just PM Richard tool.Bernard: keen observation. It's possible that they used an available bridge and made the round stock spacers to suit fitment to the matchless frame.
I would need to look for the part number, then order one just to satisfy my curiosity.
Would you happen to know what the part number is?
Andrew,Having spent some time poring over parts lists, books with original illustrations and internet images, I have come to the following conclusions, and I would appreciate anyone with more knowledge than me to clarify :
I bet the correct bolt to use is 000070, 1/4 x 9/16 x 26 tpi, same as used on the G15Mk2 front stay to mudguard (single bolt per bracket).I looked on the Walridge inventory, and the support bridge bolts (012565) listed in the 66 on parts list are 1/2 x 2BA, so maybe they are the rearmost fixings (they are listed directly following the loop on the parts list) - seem a bit small though, and odd that they use BA, but very close to 3/16 cycle so maybe a typo.
I agree on the seat pan, as I have a P11 Ranger seat which is basically of similar design.Knut, from images I have seen of the underside of the later seat, there are 2 box section brackets that would rest on the cross tube either side of the mudguard clamp.
<..> But still little support for the back of the seat.
It is my experience that it is not the mudguard, but the seat pan that is the weak point.I agree on the seat pan, as I have a P11 Ranger seat which is basically of similar design.
The G15CS seat pan tab attaches to the mudguard only, which is the sole rear end support for the seat. This is completely inadequate and causes denting and cracking of the mudguard, ...